Little Gibby's 45 MB

dove'd85 · Oct 28, 2009

crash said:
James I just wanna double check

Is that 19.25hx17.25w ? And the upper is near the middle and the lower neck is on what side?

demensions are correct, it's aslo roughly 3in think and the bottom outlet in on the pass side

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

Well I was going to get the rig turned around but ended up having problems getting the other rig moved so I just poked/peeked around and looked over the new tranny...

So here is where I gotta figure out a few things. The 3.8 is a 60 degree bolt pattern which is different than your standerd small block bolt pattern. So I need to figure that out. We also need to figure out what clutch to get and I didn't get a chanch to measure the input on the sm420 but I suspect any standard v6/v8 clutch will work. Once I can mate this setup up I can get it back into the rig and finish getting the steering parts mounted...

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

dove'd85 said:
demensions are correct, it's aslo roughly 3in think and the bottom outlet in on the pass side

Well at 19.25 tall--wow that about 4" too tall. I could cut out the cross member but it would still put the rad down below the frame rails. I wonder how it was meant to be mounted.

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

Gibby said:
Yeah, will it work?

And what's up with the crash cam?

I am fighting a port forwarding issue with my router--hope to have it fixed up late tonight---because its killing me

dove'd85 · Oct 28, 2009

crash said:
Well at 19.25 tall--wow that about 4" too tall. I could cut out the cross member but it would still put the rad down below the frame rails. I wonder how it was meant to be mounted.

this is not a cross flow radiater, so the tanks are on the top and bottom making it taller then a cross flow would typ be.. you could always give in da gansta lean:;

Gibby1 · Oct 28, 2009

crash said:
Well I was going to get the rig turned around but ended up having problems getting the other rig moved so I just poked/peeked around and looked over the new tranny...

So here is where I gotta figure out a few things. The 3.8 is a 60 degree bolt pattern which is different than your standerd small block bolt pattern. So I need to figure that out. We also need to figure out what clutch to get and I didn't get a chanch to measure the input on the sm420 but I suspect any standard v6/v8 clutch will work. Once I can mate this setup up I can get it back into the rig and finish getting the steering parts mounted...

You should already have a brand new clutch there for the 3.8.

Crap, I was hoping the bolt patter on the bellhousing would work. Can you use the bellhousing that was on the motor - the scattershield?

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

Gibby said:
You should already have a brand new clutch there for the 3.8.

Crap, I was hoping the bolt patter on the bellhousing would work. Can you use the bellhousing that was on the motor - the scattershield?

Input is different on the sm420--much bigger (whole dang thing is--well, bigger :redneck

. I am going to get the motor yanked out tommorow night and have it sitting in front of me. That was another option I was looking at. I got some research to do...

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

dove'd85 said:
this is not a cross flow radiater, so the tanks are on the top and bottom making it taller then a cross flow would typ be.. you could always give in da gansta lean:;

Only issue with that is I need to shove the motor as far forward as I can.

dove'd85 · Oct 28, 2009

ok well let me no wht you decide total thickness of rad and fan is roughly 7.5 inches

WHITE TRASH1 · Oct 28, 2009

crash said:
Input is different on the sm420--much bigger (whole dang thing is--well, bigger :redneck. I am going to get the motor yanked out tommorow night and have it sitting in front of me. That was another option I was looking at. I got some research to do...

The index diameter on a 420 is the same as a car so technically any car bellhousing should work as long as the 4 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the trans can be used. The input shaft is 1 1/8" 10 spline so finding a clutch disc shouldn't pose an issue.

crash2 · Oct 28, 2009

WHITE TRASH said:
The index diameter on a 420 is the same as a car so technically any car bellhousing should work as long as the 4 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the trans can be used. The input shaft is 1 1/8" 10 spline so finding a clutch disc shouldn't pose an issue.

I figured finding a clutch would not be an issue--its the same input as my sm465

crash2 · Oct 31, 2009

Well I have been putting along with the steering and getting close to having it done down to the orbitral. Its been slow going since its pretty tight in this lil thing. But I am hoping to have it fully roughed in monday night. I would have been closer but there was a mixup in the needed steering shaft material so I won't have it till monday. But I have been able to still put a dent in it... Once I get it roughed in I will get some pics of it...

I also hope to have the tie rod figured out monday as well so I can get with bunk and get a new chromo one done up.

crash2 · Nov 3, 2009

Just putting along. Well with a good stash of parts I can finally get some more done.

Here are the steering u-joints I had dale order for me from poly 3/4x3/4

Now I didn't want to weld them in--it makes not only having to replace the joint but any other aspect of the system. Another thing is it makes it difficult to dissassemble something thats it a tightly confined area. So I went and drilled/tapped them for 1/4" set screws.

I also drilled all mating items for the set screws to sink into.

And a portion of the assembled steering system

crash2 · Nov 3, 2009

I ended up cutting one small weld on the tilt assembly and rotated it about 2 more degrees down. The reason for it was when the tilt was in the full up position the u-joint would start to bind. Now granted when in the full up position you won't be able to even steer--but the fact still remained it would bind up causing more wear on items that should last quite a long time. But I got the tilt assy and cross supports fully welded and the upper portion of the steering done. I just need to finish welding the quick release hub to the steering shaft.

Here is the steering shaft and u-joint in the tilt assembly. I found it critical to get the joint centered to the pivat portion of the tilt assembly. If its not centered when you tilt it both shafts on each side of the joint will want to bind up--again casuing eccessive wear. I also used 3/4 washers above the u-joint to keep from being able to pull the steerin will torwards you but left about 1/16" of clearance for grease in the bushing assembly.

And down thru the firewall. I had to remove the pedal assembly to notch it also

crash2 · Nov 3, 2009

Here is the engine side of the firewall. I went and added a support for the steering shaft using a 3/4"x3/4" hiem. I pulled one of those "damnits". I welded the mount assembly into place and found I could not pull the hiem out because of the slope of the mount and the support below it. I ended up having to cut a portion of the threads for the hiem to get it out--duh... But to this point I was able to spin the steering wheel and it just turned smooth as glass with no tight/loose/tight/loose spots...

crash2 · Nov 3, 2009

Now here is where it got a little tricky. I had alot of things to take into account. The first being the fact that the motor will be moving forward for starters. The second was how the power steering pump sat on the motor because I recall it being thrown out to the side of the motor but not sure how far. The motor location I roughly figured and would not be an issue. I went and dug out the brackets--and of course had to figure them out again---back to getting old,lol. I got the pumpo bracket figured out and then threw the new PSC pump in its place to get a rough idea where it sat and then was able to figure out the location of the orbitral. The last was I wanted some soft of slip from the firewall to the orbitral since we were using a solid mount assembly on the orbitral. Well I got lucky and found the slip that was on the column that dale had brought. Well it took some measuring and trickery to finally get the slip just right (total of 1" of travel that should be WAY more than needed but made for a happy setup).

But here is that portion of the steering shaft and its only tacked into place until I can get the new orbital mount made and rotate the shaft to make sure its fully square.

At the orbitral solid mount (vs just using the spud shaft) I made a collar that uses 3 set screws (and like the steering shaft I drilled divates into the mount).

And here is the orbitral mount roughed in. I need to plate the top of the frame in a section then I can finish it up...