My chevy chevy chevy.......

[CHOP SHOP]

look around the thermo housing and intake manifold passages too.

If the diff is wet, look for rotten freeze plugs.




**** it, just drive with the cap half closed.

 

[War-Jeeper]

Go to your local napa and get some coolant dye and run it for a while grab a black light buld and look for the trail of dye

 

[zukkev]

Take a good look at the intake gaskets...Looks at the corners of the intake where the heads meet the block...Front corners (behind the a/c compressor, and alternator) are more common, but I have seen all 4 corners leaks.... I have done a gaggle of 'em due to an external leak that ends up running down to the oil pan lip, and eventually onto the diff...The OEM plastic/rubber gaskets are junk. Fel-pro makes a steel/rubber gasket to remedy this issue...
If the corners of the intake aren't wet, then I'd go after the water pump. With a mirror or looking up form underneath, you can see if it's leaking from the weep hole.
:awesomework:

 

[crash2]

What kevin said... "very" common....

Also about 80% of them will show coolant on the starter bolts...

 

[War-Jeeper]

Take a good look at the intake gaskets...Looks at the corners of the intake where the heads meet the block...Front corners (behind the a/c compressor, and alternator) are more common, but I have seen all 4 corners leaks.... I have done a gaggle of 'em due to an external leak that ends up running down to the oil pan lip, and eventually onto the diff...The OEM plastic/rubber gaskets are junk. Fel-pro makes a steel/rubber gasket to remedy this issue...
If the corners of the intake aren't wet, then I'd go after the water pump. With a mirror or looking up form underneath, you can see if it's leaking from the weep hole.
:awesomework:

What kevin said... "very" common....

Also about 80% of them will show coolant on the starter bolts...

Thats why i suggested the dye so you can have an easier time following the trail :redneck: been there done that

 

[zukkev]

Don't need the dye if you know the failure-prone areas to look at...:awesomework:

 

[War-Jeeper]

Don't need the dye if you know the failure-prone areas to look at...:awesomework:

Just easy for a guy who doesn't know specifically what hes looking for is all

 

[WA-Wheeler]

It's a Chevy...... It's the intake manifold gaskets..... :redneck:

 

[zukkev]

Just easy for a guy who doesn't know specifically what hes looking for is all

I undersstand what your saying, but we've already told Jacob the failure prone areas to look at, and I'm pretty sure he knows what a water pump is, and where the intake gaskets meet the head...... That and I hate that dye crap---it sticks to everything, makes a horrible mess down the block too when it leaks out! :redneck:

 

[boardbysled]

Yep, intake gasket. It is leaking right behind the ac pump.

Now I just have to decide if I wanna do it myself or pay someone to do it...

 

[War-Jeeper]

Yep, intake gasket. It is leaking right behind the ac pump.

Now I just have to decide if I wanna do it myself or pay someone to do it...

If you do it yourself just remember to put a little extra goop on the 4 corners like a small extra blob because they like to leak again right there after you pull them off :awesomework:

 

[zukkev]

If you do it yourself, be sure to buy the upgraded steel gaskets (Fel-Pro and Victor Reins both sell 'em now- but fel pro is preferred...)...Pay attention to the piece of paper in the box, as there is a revised torque spec for the new gaskets...:awesomework: Extra goop looks like poo IMO, and does nothing for helping seal. Apply only enough in the corners to take up the little imperfections between the gasket and the lip seal surface (the valley uses silicone sealer already on these)...Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker is the bomb. I don't care for the black stuff that the gasket kits come with. Oh, and you will need a scan tool to reset cam retard (timing), and perform a crank variation relearn...:beer:

 

[War-Jeeper]

If you do it yourself, be sure to buy the upgraded steel gaskets (Fel-Pro and Victor Reins both sell 'em now- but fel pro is preferred...)...Pay attention to the piece of paper in the box, as there is a revised torque spec for the new gaskets...:awesomework: Extra goop looks like poo IMO, and does nothing for helping seal. Apply only enough in the corners to take up the little imperfections between the gasket and the lip seal surface (the valley uses silicone sealer already on these)...Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker is the bomb. I don't care for the black stuff that the gasket kits come with. Oh, and you will need a scan tool to reset cam retard (timing), and perform a crank variation relearn...:beer:

Ive seen em fresh after new felpro gaskets (upgraded ones) leak at the corners Just a dab of sealant in the corners goes a long ways, and if it poops out a bit just wipe off the excess that shows no big deal :awesomework:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Sealer just laying there dont stick as good as sealer thats been smeared.

I like to rub a thin coating AROUND the whole coolant port. Then smear it on both sides of the gasket. Then rub it on the manifold too.

NOT gobs or a bead but a film. This ensures that the sealer (ultra grey) is well stuck to the surface, not just laying on it.

Then I like to put a nice glob in the corners of the block/head/manifold junction.


Things like a glob or bead dont stick to clean metal as good as a smeared film. This way my glob or bead sticks to a film thats VERY well stuck to metal.


Thats just me tho.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Ive seen em fresh after new felpro gaskets (upgraded ones) leak at the corners Just a dab of sealant in the corners goes a long ways, and if it poops out a bit just wipe off the excess that shows no big deal :awesomework:

Its hard to wipe of the excess that is smooshed out and stuck to the pushrods, plugging the coolant passage, stuck in the thermostat, hanging in the intake port, etc.



Ive seen some nasty DIY sillycone messes inside things.


Also put some sealer on the intake BOLTS, as they leak oil on high milers (blowby).

 

[crash2]

Do not use sealer on the bolts--use blue loctite...

Also a 3/8" line of sealer front/back of the valley and overlap it slightly on the intake gaskets at the edge.

I have done probably 40 of them and this method has never failed.

 

[War-Jeeper]

Sealer just laying there dont stick as good as sealer thats been smeared.

I like to rub a thin coating AROUND the whole coolant port. Then smear it on both sides of the gasket. Then rub it on the manifold too.

NOT gobs or a bead but a film. This ensures that the sealer (ultra grey) is well stuck to the surface, not just laying on it.

Then I like to put a nice glob in the corners of the block/head/manifold junction.


Things like a glob or bead dont stick to clean metal as good as a smeared film. This way my glob or bead sticks to a film thats VERY well stuck to metal.


Thats just me tho.

Its hard to wipe of the excess that is smooshed out and stuck to the pushrods, plugging the coolant passage, stuck in the thermostat, hanging in the intake port, etc.



Ive seen some nasty DIY sillycone messes inside things.


Also put some sealer on the intake BOLTS, as they leak oil on high milers (blowby).

Completely agree with ya, I ment the stuff on the outside but when we did them in the past there was very little that came out :awesomework:

Never had one come back :redneck: