MIG'DHORSE
Well-Known Member
dude his body can only handle so much weight.. he is gonna tip over if his head gets any bigger
hahaha true... so should we pop this over inflated head, or just let it slow leak out?
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Project "Secret Squirrel"
- Thread starter Jeepless
- Start date
hahaha true... so should we pop this over inflated head, or just let it slow leak out?
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
dude his body can only handle so much weight.. he is gonna tip over if his head gets any bigger
ha ha ha---thump :haha:
And we weighter the rig--fully fueled minus tools/body's
2912#'s :awesomework:
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
Roccrawler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2006
- Messages
- 6,325
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
wow not bad, couple hund more than I figured
In that range I am sure it wouldn't matter unless you are doing a rig to do alot of verticle rock stuff.....
It was sure limber like it was light though...
Its going to get air pretty easy...:redneck:
ON a serious note, the tires bairly had any air in them and at times had the "aired up" feel.
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
arent the tires brand new though?
Mrs. Crash
Administrator
yes,minus a few nubbies :redneck:
Yes, my point is that the rig is so light it didn't affect the tires with the amount of pressure, I am sure once the tires get broke in they will react a little better.
:eeek: :eeek: :eeek: :eeek:
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I notice the radiator overflow bottle is
still there
still there
Mrs. Crash
Administrator
Hey, I left you a few... Didn't you hear them screaming every time you hit a tree/rock/etc..."we wish Crista had picked us too!!!"
:redneck:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Not Jobless
Mr Funbags
You need to cut/groove the center tread blocks otherwise that rig isn't heavy enough to overcome the stiffness of the tread and sidewalls.
It was the samething with my old 38" TSL on my Jeep and it was at least 500lbs heavier than your rig at the time.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
2 of them are :awesomework:
Yeppers I managed to get side tracked and never got the the others to the bunkmaster for grooveing.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok so time to start poking thru the problems with the rig.
The first I went for was the high idle problem. On this motor the idle control assembly is mounted to the bottom side of the throttle body. So I opted to just remove it to make things super simple....
So here you can see the buildup from the moisture.
Here is the bore of the throttle body.
I was able to use some scotch brite to easily remove the crap without causing any stickyness to the throttle (plate to bore).
Here are the ports on the bottom of the throttle body that feed into the idle assembly. You can see the buildup from the moisture.
And here is the idle assembly that the soloniod controls. Its a rotaing barell with small bearings on each side thats like a half moon--turns it to control the air flow(controlled vacuum leak). And what was happening was the bearings were kinda gritty from the water so it would easily bind up since its turned by magnetic force. So I was able to saok it in lube and then clean the piss out of it--and it now seems to be working good.
The first I went for was the high idle problem. On this motor the idle control assembly is mounted to the bottom side of the throttle body. So I opted to just remove it to make things super simple....
So here you can see the buildup from the moisture.
Here is the bore of the throttle body.
I was able to use some scotch brite to easily remove the crap without causing any stickyness to the throttle (plate to bore).
Here are the ports on the bottom of the throttle body that feed into the idle assembly. You can see the buildup from the moisture.
And here is the idle assembly that the soloniod controls. Its a rotaing barell with small bearings on each side thats like a half moon--turns it to control the air flow(controlled vacuum leak). And what was happening was the bearings were kinda gritty from the water so it would easily bind up since its turned by magnetic force. So I was able to saok it in lube and then clean the piss out of it--and it now seems to be working good.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Next thing to tackle was the t-case issue. Since when you used the doubler it would move the rear case shifter--I knew it was something with a shift rail.
Well I pulled the cases out right quick and here is the pesky bugger thats causing all the trouble..
So I measure the clearances and here is what I removed.
Threw it together and re-cked it before I sealed it up and threw it back in and--it works like a champ now. I don't know HOW I managed to over look this but---its on the $$ now,lol.....
Well I pulled the cases out right quick and here is the pesky bugger thats causing all the trouble..
So I measure the clearances and here is what I removed.
Threw it together and re-cked it before I sealed it up and threw it back in and--it works like a champ now. I don't know HOW I managed to over look this but---its on the $$ now,lol.....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So the next thing was the steering. I was going to add another U-joint to the mix but I came to the conclusing there just wasn't enough room for another one. So I went and cut the bearing assemble off the hub and popped it back into the splines. I have found from past rigs that you have some side to side movement in the splines on the orbitral so doing it this way has proved to work extreemly well.
Here is the shaft now..
So at this point I thought I had the steering prblem licked. Well I went to try it out and it was still binding up except I could feel the steering shaft and there was some lateral movement in it which told me thats not the problem.
This is where I started playing around. At first I thought it was the orbitral binding up interanally but I had come to the conclusion that it wasn't--or at least thats not what I saw. So I went and cracked the pressure hose loose at the orbitral and there was hardly anything coming out at idle. I then tightend it back up and turned it lock to lock---and didn't get the typical noise from the pump that you would expect.
Then I went and wound the motor up/down and then all of a sudden the thing started turning good. So I went and got the air out and did some hot laps--this lil thing really zings good. So now the steering is working perfect.
So for now we wil keep and eye on it and see what happens....
Here is the shaft now..
So at this point I thought I had the steering prblem licked. Well I went to try it out and it was still binding up except I could feel the steering shaft and there was some lateral movement in it which told me thats not the problem.
This is where I started playing around. At first I thought it was the orbitral binding up interanally but I had come to the conclusion that it wasn't--or at least thats not what I saw. So I went and cracked the pressure hose loose at the orbitral and there was hardly anything coming out at idle. I then tightend it back up and turned it lock to lock---and didn't get the typical noise from the pump that you would expect.
Then I went and wound the motor up/down and then all of a sudden the thing started turning good. So I went and got the air out and did some hot laps--this lil thing really zings good. So now the steering is working perfect.
So for now we wil keep and eye on it and see what happens....
