So i bought a 51 Whilly

[pokey]

found it....

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SS-1

thanks pokey for the link above...

:haha: I was wondering if you looked :eeek: same one I am using on mine.

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

progress looks good.:awesomework:

Karl has that present for you.:redneck:

 

[Hip]

yeah he came by work and dropped it off. i need to bore out the ID about ten thosands as there is a .001 inteference fit.. the od of the 1" tube is 1.001 very consistent?

shave a few inchs of tube od or bore out the id?

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

yeah he came by work and dropped it off. i need to bore out the ID about ten thosands as there is a .001 inteference fit.. the od of the 1" tube is 1.001 very consistent?

shave a few inchs of tube od or bore out the id?

I can do that if you can't. Just give me the piece of tube that needs to go through that section or some good dimensions.

You might get away with a brake cylinder hone. That has worked for me in the past.

 

[Hip]

I can do that if you can't. Just give me the piece of tube that needs to go through that section or some good dimensions.

You might get away with a brake cylinder hone. That has worked for me in the past.

i have a brake cylinder hone and great idea im sure i can make it fit. i just want to be able to change the depth of the ohshit handle for different peoples arm length.

 

[Hip]

well my rework is always my best work.:redneck:

some time ago i decided to move the motor back a half inch, this fixed a major problem and caused a few minor problems. so i had to redo the sheetmetal around where the engine sits. lost some width of my footwell which is where i "had" plenty room for a gas pedal. it was all set. well i spent two days reworking this area to get it right and sealable so i can put the motor in permanent this time:awesomework:

havent mounted the gas pedal yet so hopefully this will all be OK. looks like saturday install drivetrain.:cheer:

 

[Hip]

drivetrain is in.

 

[Hip]

thats not supposed to be like that is it?

engine all wired up and the check eng light is always on even with key off....?

still need the turn signal switch Fan controllers and 2" round amber LED turn signals/running light.

the switch and contrroller willbe here tuesday biut i dont have a source for the run/turn signals? anyone have a link?

they need three wires not two.

 

[Binder]

engine all wired up and the check eng light is always on even with key off....?.

Wasn't this TBI?....The light should be wired to a hot as the ECM is a ground....Even if you had it wired wrong I don't see why the light would stay on all of the time.:eeek:

 

[Hip]

its CPI. 94 computer.

yeah on a ford system there is only one wire for the check eng light and the other goes to ground. this has both wires.

wondering if maybe because i am using LED indicators and they dont draw enough current to drain the system?

the light dims when the key is turned off but stays on barely but definately still on.

saturday im diving into it again and if i add fluids could try maybe to start it.:awesomework:

 

[TreeClimber]

Make sure the grounds aren't to a painted surface. (Not saying that's specifically the issue, jsut double check)

 

[Binder]

Make sure the grounds aren't to a painted surface. (Not saying that's specifically the issue, jsut double check)

That's a good point. Make sure the system ground has good contact. It could be pulling ground through the light circuit.

 

[Hip]

switchs showed up

so this weekend its awn to finish wiring this thing:awesomework:

maybe have motor running sunday...?:cheer:

 

[Hip]

well all fluided up and ready to rock but no spark.:booo:

I have 12.53 V to the coil on run and 12.12 on crank but no spark. after cranking a few seconds (4) the volts drop to 9.7.

ill check the eng block ground for paint. that seemed to fix the check eng light issue.:awesomework:

im tired and the kids are coming. happy halloween.:cheer:

 

[pokey]

well all fluided up and ready to rock but no spark.:booo:

I have 12.53 V to the coil on run and 12.12 on crank but no spark. after cranking a few seconds (4) the volts drop to 9.7.

ill check the eng block ground for paint. that seemed to fix the check eng light issue.:awesomework:

im tired and the kids are coming. happy halloween.:cheer:

Sounds like your really close though :cheer: I really need to get motovated and get on mine Its getting real close but yet so far :booo::haha:

 

[Hip]

so what makes the coil spark anyways.

it has 12V positive to the positive side of the coil but what signals it to spark. the ECU?

How?

Does it switch the ground on and off?:eeek:

 

[Binder]

so what makes the coil spark anyways.

it has 12V positive to the positive side of the coil but what signals it to spark. the ECU?

How?

Does it switch the ground on and off?:eeek:

Yes the ground is switched on and off. The ECM does the switching based on the signal from the distributor.

 

[Hip]

Yes the ground is switched on and off. The ECM does the switching based on the signal from the distributor.

when i was checking voltage i switched over to the ground and did see a pulse kinda, my meter is slow but i did see fluctuation.

so im still thinking ground is not clean enough. i didnt polish it, i just scraped some paint off and put a starr washer...

to check for the pulse what do you use? a light verses a meter?

 

[Binder]

to check for the pulse what do you use? a light verses a meter?

Yeah for something like that a test light would probably work better as it's switching too fast...
Does the harness you bought only have one ground? Where do you have it grounded to?

 

[Hip]

actually it has none. it tells you to add grounds to all appliances, chassis to eng, eng to battery.... and to make sure they are not painted and shiny metal.

normally during the weekdays i cannot get out to the shop to work as i dont have much time. today i will clean the grounds and check again in my 45 minutes i have before careprovider leaves.