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"The mistress"

Nope thats bottomed out,dont have no nitrogen to pump them up yet.Thats sitting at a 15 1/2 " belly ride heighth, goes up about 5" to 5 1/2" s
 
Looking good, Mike. Definately unique with all the little things. :cool: Is it getting anything for a grill? (410 maybe?)
 
Looking good, Mike. Definately unique with all the little things. :cool: Is it getting anything for a grill? (410 maybe?)

Thats funny you say that...Im going to order a lexan windshield from lowrange,so the wife was looking at it on line and she noticed there 410 grill hehe so shes been on me trying to talk me into buying it a and hackin it up for this zuk.

I think it would be cool...more zuk stuff!:awesomework:

BUt my grill area is minimal im not sure it would be recognizable?

I got some time off work coming up for turkey day maybe Ill spend some time on the mill with some of that alluminum sheeting I got left over,and doing me up a grill that way...I dunno,I was thinkin just some expanded metal for a grill/protection for high$$ rad.

Thanks man :beer:
 
the 410 grill would be sweet!.. the wheel and tires are perfect look for the buggy.. i can wait to see it get beat on the trail..
 
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till no grill,lots of other lil things to do yet.

Built and ran all the batt. cables and winch power cable.

2 ga. welding cable.

The rear
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ran it through the body
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the front
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Got the msd ign box mounted
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Starter solenoid and some heat protection for the power cables near the header.

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GOt the crank breather finished,temp sensor,oil press. sensor and oil filter done up.
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finished up the ign wires
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made a hood latch out of sammy rear seat mechanism.
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more....:redneck:
 
Then I fabbed me up a breather manifold.

tapping 1/8"npt
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counter bored the bottom ones.
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goes here

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I got 2 k&n type filters that go on the outside edges yet,they will be for the crank breather and the valve cover breather.Those bellows will operate as my trans/klune/t case breathers.Tye rear diff will just get the bellow mounted the housing and the front is an ARB I dont think one those bellows would be smart for that so it will just get a normal k&n style breather.

I cant seem to find a oil fill cap that has a breather built into it that will fit ,so I made one.
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installed
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got the rig all stripped down...shes nekked:haha:
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painting the underside of the hood.Getting close to wiring this thing up.:awesomework:
 
Holy **** bro...This thing is so f-ing cool. I love all the detail work you've put in. Job well done:cool:
 
Havnt touched it since Turkey day break...HUrt my shoulder,taking a few days off to heal up some.:looser:

You sound like a crippled old man.:flipoff:

One of these days I need to come over and take inventory of all my machine tool accsesories and make sure your being nice to them.Hopefully you can get this to testing stage while the snow is still here.
 
lol

Im taking good care of them,and they are taking good care of me.

Without youre help and knowledge and the loaner tooling and such Id never been able to tackle this project Cave...I sure appreciate it.

I did nick a parralel with an end mill the other day...thought I had room hehe
 
damn I got a mess on my hands

I still got work to do on the dog house gotta fab up one more piece for that and I need to fab some sort of mount for my turn signals.Also need to cut out and drill mount holes and such for the skid plates,few other things includeing all fluids,coolant ,engine,p/s,brake,drivetrain oils.

But I had a freind offer to come by Sunday and help me get started...not quite ready for that but...cant tuen down help!

So we started the wireing process.

Im useing an 18 circuit hot rod painless kit.

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fuse panel mounted up nice and high.
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So we got the gauge panel all wired just need to run a hot wire and aground and rout and hook up the sensor wires(oil press. and water temp)
We got all the differant section laid out and somewhat routed.

Yesterday i took the day off and got a bunch more done.

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I got all the headlights wired and loomed,starter solenoid,and the fuse panels main power ran,Alt exciter wire and charge wire routed and loomed,Just gotta finish the relay for the high beams,and finish the sensor wires,horn is mounted and wired.

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Then I started on the back...kinda working my way outside to in...not sure if that proper...I really dont know what im doing as usual lol well I do know what im doing...trying to build a damn zuk lol I think you get my drift.

Got the rear main wires ran and loomed,Dome light is done,rear speakers are done,rear tail lights,brake,turn,back up lights are all routed and loomed.Just need to wire up the arb and run some wires up to the dash switchs and threar is all done...had a very productive day...just got in a zone,had the metal cranked up and got down lol

At first I was hating this **** but ive kinda been enjoying it actually.:awesomework:
 
Kinda off base question but could you hide the wires better i.e. run it through the tube?

With all your time on details I don't like the wiring in the back.

Not trying to be an ass, just trying to be helpful as the wires in the back being vulnerable would drive me nuts!
 
I thought about runnin under the rig...might be eavan more vulnerable there.I dont wanna drill holes in the tubing...I fear that will make the structure weaker.Not to mention what pain it would be to fish that wire through the tubes.

Honestly I dont like it much either back there.But its fastened very well and a high quality loom protecting.I feel like the function is there but lacking form.Bottom line it aint a show rig,its a trail rig...I jst want it done man.Dont want to miss another season of snow wheelin...I havnt been to the mountains in 2 years.I just want it done so I can go wheel again,so I aint changing nothing...hell ill be estatic if all this wiring **** actually works on the first try.
 
I thought about runnin under the rig...might be eavan more vulnerable there.I dont wanna drill holes in the tubing...I fear that will make the structure weaker.Not to mention what pain it would be to fish that wire through the tubes.

Honestly I dont like it much either back there.But its fastened very well and a high quality loom protecting.I feel like the function is there but lacking form.Bottom line it aint a show rig,its a trail rig...I jst want it done man.Dont want to miss another season of snow wheelin...I havnt been to the mountains in 2 years.I just want it done so I can go wheel again,so I aint changing nothing...hell ill be estatic if all this wiring **** actually works on the first try.

My entire buggy is the same way... not 1 single hole in any of the tubes, everything is off of a tab. This is the right way to go IMO. Keep up the good work, you should be done soon. :awesomework:
 
Thanks Man.:beer:

Hey guys you notice how I tapped into the feed wire from the batt. to the starter solenoid and used that to power up the circuit breaker for the feed for the low beam headlight relay.

Is that a bad idea? is it proper to just run a lead back to the batts + post.I dont see why it would matter? just thought thats a decent question worth asking.

thanks,Mike

Plus I just got a toggle for my ign on...and have a button for the starter solenoid.

Kinda prethinking how this **** gets all powered up it seems they are(painless instructions) going to be asking me to hook up alot of wires to that toggle(ign switch) plus I got some other things to hookup that will need to be powered off the ign. switch.I think Ill end up with 5 wires hooked up to the ign toggle.Its just a 25 amp switch,is this going to start a fire? seems like that could get way past its amp load? should I buy another 6 circuit fuse panel and power that up off a relay from the ign on switch,then just run all those wires that would have gone to the ign on switch to that seperate fuse panel?

I dunno,I would think that would be best huh? or am I already over thinkin this mess?

Appreciate any help im getting really confused with all this wiring lol
 
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you can buy a small 6 circuit breaker off the shelf from any parts store (they are cheap too). I'd just run a separate power 10gauge wire to it and have a few more options.... or you could just tap off another 12v ignition circuit that has not been tapped yet and run that to a relay to kick it on. That way you dont overload a switch.
 
I thought about runnin under the rig...might be eavan more vulnerable there.I dont wanna drill holes in the tubing...I fear that will make the structure weaker.Not to mention what pain it would be to fish that wire through the tubes.

Honestly I dont like it much either back there.But its fastened very well and a high quality loom protecting.I feel like the function is there but lacking form.Bottom line it aint a show rig,its a trail rig...I jst want it done man.Dont want to miss another season of snow wheelin...I havnt been to the mountains in 2 years.I just want it done so I can go wheel again,so I aint changing nothing...hell ill be estatic if all this wiring **** actually works on the first try.

No problem just a little constructive criticism. I know I have cut corners at the end of builds and kicked myself for doing so later on. I hear you as well about wanting to not miss another season:awesomework:

Keep up the good work:awesomework:

My entire buggy is the same way... not 1 single hole in any of the tubes, everything is off of a tab. This is the right way to go IMO. Keep up the good work, you should be done soon. :awesomework:

So, if I drill a hole in the tube it weakens it:scratchhead:

Every car trailer on the road has holes for wires in the axle tube. Does the hole mean the axle will break in half?

You can drill holes in tube structure and not weaken it if done in the correct places. The wires are a bitch to fish especially if you go through a joint.
 
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