To auto or not to auto

crash2 · Dec 17, 2015

So One thing I have been bouncing around is going with an auto and dumping my sm465/toy reduction box/dana 300 and going with an auto to my dana 300.

I have always been a manual trans guy but those who have used the sm465--its not a friendly shifting trans and the older I get--the worse my damn shoulder gets.

Since I will be redoing my suspension here soon redoing the trans will be the perfect time.

Since I only got a 4.3 I would suspect the th350 will be sufficient for my needs and strength.

If I was to go that route I would definitely build the trans right with the appropriate valve body and converter(still need to figure out the correct stall).

So what says you :redneck:

AMJ · Dec 17, 2015

Having driven both I like the auto. Seems to be a bit easier to control and one less pedal to deal with lol.

CHOP SHOP · Dec 17, 2015

Why build a th350 when a th400 is about the same cost to build and find?

junkyard jim · Dec 17, 2015

Or find a pre '83 AMC with GM Iron Duke (SBC pattern) and 904 to build up? You can mod the converter with a remote lockup switch.

Alternately, if you find an early TH400 with switch pitch, you can have 2 different stall speeds at the flick of a switch.

dickwart · Dec 17, 2015

As a die hard manual guy I'd say if your gonna be in there doing the suspension then now is the time to auto it! So many pro's over cons do going to the auto, especially for what you do with your rig... I will swap to an auto one of these days when I decide to put a big boy motor in my ride... Keep it cool and it'll hold up just as well as ye ole 4 speed... Plus, if you go to an auto I can make fun of you for it :redneck:

fj401ton · Dec 17, 2015

id run a th350 with a manual valve body over stick anytime. I find i have way more control with an auto when rock crawling. a decent built th350 will last a good long time with a cooler,, and find the th400 i put in over my th350 2 years ago runs quite a bit warmer. if i didnt run 46 inch tires for snow wheelin then i would have stuck with the th350. as far as torque converter goes with a 4.3 th350 id run something around the 1800 mark

WA-Wheeler · Dec 17, 2015

Been on 2 trips in 2 years where an auto tranny has been a nuisance.

1.....starter went out. Had to pull the starter out of a manual rig to get it out of the trails and onto the trailer. That one was not so bad but I don't want to do it again.

2.....tranny blew a seal and had to be towed all the way back to camp. Unsure why it blew could be lack or maintenance or overheated or just **** luck. Either way it was a pain.

For these reasons I will always stick to my manual tranny and hydro assist only. In the end I have better chance to limp of the trail. One of those things where keep it simple stupid rings true.

But I have had lots of buddies run auto for years and years and no issues....so grain of salt? :awesomework:

Corey Y · Dec 17, 2015

I have broke 3 clutch discs in different vehicles that have left them dead. Everything can break. Autos are easier to drive on the tight trails around here.

mark · Dec 17, 2015

Sticks are fun, autos are SOO much nicer.

When I do wheel, I miss my stick for the easy days crawling around on the open trails, but sure do love the auto for the rocks and more technical stuff... and hill-climbs when you didn't pick the right gear at the bottom..

dickwart · Dec 17, 2015

mark said:
and hill-climbs when you didn't pick the right gear at the bottom..

ya, I hear ya there with my 90 horse and 42's...

crazybluerider1 · Dec 17, 2015

fj401ton said:
id run a th350 with a manual valve body over stick anytime. I find i have way more control with an auto when rock crawling. a decent built th350 will last a good long time with a cooler,, and find the th400 i put in over my th350 2 years ago runs quite a bit warmer. if i didnt run 46 inch tires for snow wheelin then i would have stuck with the th350. as far as torque converter goes with a 4.3 th350 id run something around the 1800 mark

I run a 4l60e backed by a dana300 in my 4.3'd yota. I love it.

The only thing that pisses me off about the auto is that I didn't do it sooner.

Its also really nice to be able to throw it in drive at the end of the day for the drive back to camp.

I run a 2500 stall with 38's and wouldn't go any lower for what it is worth.

lethe · Dec 17, 2015

My vote is auto.

DHR Darren · Dec 17, 2015

With all this converter talk I would highly recommend getting one built for your application. PTC converters or A1 (in Vancouver) will build it exactly how you need.
In a wheeler I would want it fairly loose down low to be able to maintain traction on loose/slick conditions but tight up top for the least parasitic loss and most efficiency. I would go with a 10 or 10.5" unit.

The converter will make or break the fun & effectiveness of the auto swap.

Stall speed numbers mean little compared to the overall converter design in the desired end result.

mudslayer · Dec 17, 2015

Wheeled the **** out of 4spd for yrs, nothing like the low 1st and only issue I have is having a reconstructed ankle and pushing in that pedal all day, I bought a another rig a few yrs back with a 350/350/300 setup and absolutely love it, only draw back I seem to see is steep descents, have to use brakes more than the manual and tends to try and drive thru the brakes. Not to big a deal, most times I throw it in neutral and just use brakes.

Totalled · Dec 17, 2015

Clark · Dec 17, 2015

A th350 with a reverse manual valve body would be way better when it comes to anything really technical, and they allow you to operate with more finesse when you're at the line of catastrophic consequences. 1st to reverse is way faster in an auto also. So I vote th350, and a decent tranny cooler.

ChrisStewart · Dec 18, 2015

Th350, build it, run a manual valve body. I would never go back.

crash2 · Dec 18, 2015

Well I was on the fence and damn--got thrown over the other side :fawkdancesmiley:

Thanks for the input and time to start gathering more parts..:cheer:

PORTER · Dec 18, 2015

Auto and it's not even close. Do it mike, you won't regret it.

crazybluerider1 · Dec 18, 2015

DHR Darren said:
With all this converter talk I would highly recommend getting one built for your application. PTC converters or A1 (in Vancouver) will build it exactly how you need.
In a wheeler I would want it fairly loose down low to be able to maintain traction on loose/slick conditions but tight up top for the least parasitic loss and most efficiency. I would go with a 10 or 10.5" unit.

The converter will make or break the fun & effectiveness of the auto swap.

Stall speed numbers mean little compared to the overall converter design in the desired end result.

I guess I should have been more specific with mine. I don't know too much about converters but mine was built for my application. I have a 2500 stall PATC converter. When they put together my trans kit they asked a ton of questions about intended tire size, gearing, and H.P.

I'm really happy with the converter and trans parts kit they set up for me.