• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

toyota cab truck on tons

ridered3 said:
Coming along nicely! :dblthumb:
Thank ya sir

ALLJ said:
GM part number is 12577901 Dont know exact depth measures about 6 inches but it does not hang down past my transmission pan and it does have a screw on filter
Should be similar to the f body pan in depth. Thanks for the info

Paperstreet10 said:
Glad to see the harness on that engine. Floor frames look good too!
We need to get this POS running before Christmas :****:
 
tapped and plugged the heater core ports on the water pump
IMG_0686_zps362c27fe.jpg


I dont have a break for making a PCM mount so I came up with this. Any thoughts?
IMG_0688_zps3498f182.jpg

IMG_0691_zps2d5878dc.jpg

IMG_0690_zpsab72570d.jpg

IMG_0689_zps818cec41.jpg
 
I decided to change a few things.
The computer mount I made the first go round was stupid so I changed it up. Its over kill for the application but its the thinest material I had and im not worried about weight anyways.

68AB711A-DE5C-4EE4-93DD-9C24CE67B44F-17357-000022F83909CA4B.jpg


Decided to take apart the front axle to service it and upgrade parts in the process. I'm doing a king pin rebuild and also need some inner axle seals.
A little bloopers moment in the shop

91128555-A0DE-4696-8F42-4E7A1AE59D92-17357-000022F85EE01E58.jpg


I didnt feel like the front coilover mounts were going to be strong enough mounted on the hood bar so it came off. I think I like the new look better.

8FA01C66-1DA8-42AF-A87E-972B6151F5FB-17357-000022F8129570F2.jpg

D9725AC5-FDFF-47F4-AF91-E93DFC25656F-17357-000022F82D00851E.jpg
 
85toyo said:
I decided to change a few things.
The computer mount I made the first go round was stupid so I changed it up. Its over kill for the application but its the thinest material I had and im not worried about weight anyways.

68AB711A-DE5C-4EE4-93DD-9C24CE67B44F-17357-000022F83909CA4B.jpg


Decided to take apart the front axle to service it and upgrade parts in the process. I'm doing a king pin rebuild and also need some inner axle seals.
A little bloopers moment in the shop

91128555-A0DE-4696-8F42-4E7A1AE59D92-17357-000022F85EE01E58.jpg


I didnt feel like the front coilover mounts were going to be strong enough mounted on the hood bar so it came off. I think I like the new look better.

8FA01C66-1DA8-42AF-A87E-972B6151F5FB-17357-000022F8129570F2.jpg

D9725AC5-FDFF-47F4-AF91-E93DFC25656F-17357-000022F82D00851E.jpg
You can buy the factory GM truck ECM mount from the dealer or a salvage yard they may even give you one if you know them well enough they are plastic and the ECM will snap into it bolt it down with a couple 1/4 bolts
 
grcthird said:
I like welding on ECMs. :drinkers: Get this thing going, I'm ready to see it :eat:
The ECM was far from the welding activities. :****: Between hunting, KOH, and the bassmaster classic, my fab days are over until March. Hopefully I'll have some parts waiting on me when I get back though. :driving:
 
85toyo said:
tapped and plugged the heater core ports on the water pump
IMG_0686_zps362c27fe.jpg


Nice build, I would like to do the same for my 5.3 on the heater ports, do you have a easy way to remove the barbs? Thanks
 
I pulled those out with channel locks. Twisting and pulling at the same time was the only way I could get them to move.
 
Made some progress on it last time I was home. I did a complete rebuild on the front axle. I need to find a flat keyed washer that goes behind the first spindle nut. Somehow that broke :dunno: I might as well replace the spindle nuts while I'm at it. What type do y'all prefer? Stock, lock pin type or stage 8?

A few pics

936048B6-0C9C-4B59-8482-47ACAEFBA2A9-1441-0000046000DA5AF5_zpse891b3a1.jpg


7DC7EDB0-A03B-4C59-BC5E-F4FCA39F20EF-1441-000004600ABAEE43_zpsfe6ebdc4.jpg


Started getting the steering mocked up but I'm at a stop until I get my high steer arms machined.

EA0FCA32-559C-4347-95E2-6F8C5AA7E550-1441-000004602DB8B294_zps1ed1875c.jpg


58892BE3-BF34-4B0A-A9FF-06F4C6EE8A3E-1441-000004604AF11558_zps017039d8.jpg
 
Not much to update but I worked on it for the first time in a few months. I finally got the front axle back together for hopefully the last time.

Stage 8 spindle nuts installed and the drive flanges are in there now that I have a pair of snap ring pliers big enough to handle those things.
1766DC3B-D30A-4A16-86C8-6CD937ACCBA8-8647-00001230DBA1F7FE_zps9e8991c1.jpg

8B46F0D5-C8B3-41DB-8218-373E8A5633C1-8647-000012379E33CFC4_zps063c5393.jpg


I picked up a bracket kit from Goat built for my pump and alternator. I'm not a fan of the zinc coating but I forgot to paint it so it's staying how it is.
EE833B70-52C4-4DE4-B5D5-306CA9FCCBB5-8647-00001230CAB00CB5_zps56dfb241.jpg


When my new radiator came in, I started searching around for mounts and there aren't any that fit a radiator this size so I dropped it off with Joey at Gilberts Automotive and let him build me some. They turned out awesome by the way.
F4F8110E-08AD-4253-AE93-058917BD6CA9-8647-0000122F5BCE3E42_zpsdd7ccfea.jpg


I added some bracing to the back side of the cab and built my radiator mounts off of it.
EA64D87F-000F-4A6A-A55A-A1BB7E61A03B-8647-0000122F89BBCB0A_zpsf0aa3699.jpg

711BDCB4-EB4E-4CD1-8E3B-9A071D9411E4-8647-0000122F9711F4DD_zps2642a173.jpg

3AFFF2C3-80B3-47BD-9D52-3A6EDB3038A6-8647-0000122FAC2DE61F_zps610952a7.jpg

718AD6A6-CAB5-4951-A98B-A26666908E80-8647-0000122FB350A438_zpsbe7d1060.jpg


Tomorrow I'm planning on getting the new fuel cell mounted then move to the front and make a few changes up there. I'm going to cut the frame back to the upper link mounts and do things like they should have been done to start with.
New motor mounts and bump cans will hopefully be done by Monday afternoon.
506B8365-5213-4A5F-90CD-B0816A19A58B-8647-0000122F700CF6AF_zps9c349499.jpg


Got some bumps from Bobby at CCOR while I was working in Athens. Great guy to deal with thumb.gif
53B5B926-F401-4F8D-8299-2EF2EE275A8C-8647-000012309F9FC59B_zps83a87f39.jpg
 
The fuel cell and trans cooler are mounted now. I might add a little extra tube to protect the trans cooler but I need to order a 1" tube die first.

718F5A1F-8759-4A7A-AB8A-4DB16F1B5EFE-369-000000AF87EA021E_zpsfc5140d8.jpg

146C8FBF-C520-4A1F-9581-3A95AF9B0102-369-000000AF91AC9033_zps0345d7b7.jpg

347B5CA3-85D7-432E-8AF0-FE84979318DC-369-000000AFA0567E2A_zps40cc1aba.jpg

4B8440D0-81EE-47B2-BA12-E5B2A33E6FC3-369-000000AFB0E2F9C6_zps6b81ccb3.jpg
 
I'm finally satisfied with the front. When I welded the bump can, it shrank and took over an hour to get it spread out enough to allow the bump to slide in. Does anyone have any suggestions before I weld the next one?





















 
When welding on bumpstop cans, I use a piece of 2" dom tubing in the can. I think I live just up the road from you in Argo. You are welcome to use the dom if you don't have anything 2" around. I would not used the airbump itself though, probably too much heat for the seals.
 
RustyC said:
When welding on bumpstop cans, I use a piece of 2" dom tubing in the can. I think I live just up the road from you in Argo. You are welcome to use the dom if you don't have anything 2" around. I would not used the airbump itself though, probably too much heat for the seals.

I've got a piece left over from another project I was working on so I'll try that.

You're not far from me. I live in Clay and work on my truck in Ashville.
 
Top