Toyota pinion Nuts

CHOP SHOP · Sep 14, 2009

Damnyankee said:
so we have dumb input of

Usng an impact,
using a torque multiplier..

this is actually really funny considering the fact that he is STRIPPING THE NUTS.
an impact or a torque mulitplier will NOT stop that from happening.. jeeze.

brad,
i would try using some extreme pressure grease between the nut and the yoke flange.
Its possible its biting / gauling and you are actually over torqueing the nut before the sleave crushes.
If the nut is biting on one of the splines (or gauling on a point) this might cause you issues.

just a thought.

I Know. The mental power going on in this thread is just plain amazing!!:corn:

The nuts not bottoming out or hitting splines. A properly set up toyota diff only has a thread or two max showing when properly setup. If your getting the nut tight enough to bottom it in the threads, then the pinion is way too shallow.:awesomework:

And yes I have used the hiimpact grease. I get it from a friend that runs crane. Its used on their machines pins. It is kinda a clear green color and sticks to everything and streches like pizza cheese. VERY MESSY!!

crash2 · Sep 14, 2009

CHOP SHOP said:
I have about 10 stripped out pinion nuts from toyota diffs. I have tried a million times to "crush" a crush sleeve, all I end up with is a stripped out nut and no crush.

I have used mostly solid spacers and can set them up rather quickly.

My problem is without turning a custom solid spacer I have to use a crush sleeve when setting up ELOCKERS. I even have a notch and holes in my 1/4 wall bench to bolt them in to and use whatever breaker it takes to tighten it. I have NEVER got a toyota 8 inch to crush the crush sleeve.:booo:

It had been a while since I killed a pinion nut so I was thinkin positive a few days ago and attacked one with a crush sleeve. It kicked my ass once more and I ended up turnin a custom solid spacer.

Anyone else experience this? What to do?:beer:

What are you using to turn the nut?

been there done that with m ore than one brand of nut and crush sleeve

Pook · Sep 14, 2009

Is it possible to precrush the sleeve slightly in a press to help it get started?

CHOP SHOP · Sep 14, 2009

crash said:
What are you using to turn the nut?

been there done that with m ore than one brand of nut and crush sleeve

A half inch ratchet with a tube slid over it for leverage. Using a six point S&K impact socket.

CHOP SHOP · Sep 14, 2009

Pook said:
Is it possible to precrush the sleeve slightly in a press to help it get started?

Its possible, But it scares me. I have no way to ensure the sleeve is crushed evenly and not going to cock the bearing at all.

Thats why I have been turning off a small bit or using an old sleeve hats too short and shimming it like a solid spacer.

85flopped · Sep 18, 2009

I have broken a 3/4" drive snap-on breaker bar(about 4 ft long) trying to crush one and same deal ripped the threads out of the nut. Solid spacer seems to be the way to go. I agree those crush sleeves are hit or miss-last time I redid my gears bought 2 sets yukon one went flawless the other not so much.

darius · Sep 18, 2009

Spend some money on a good impact gun. I've had 1 or 2 I couldn't crush, and stripped a few nut's out, I think the shock of the impact saves the nut.

zukkev · Sep 18, 2009

darius said:
Spend some money on a good impact gun. I've had 1 or 2 I couldn't crush, and stripped a few nut's out, I think the shock of the impact saves the nut.

X2 on this...My previous post was directed more toward a 14B FF...never had a problem with a yota...yet!

CHOP SHOP · Sep 18, 2009

darius said:
Spend some money on a good impact gun. I've had 1 or 2 I couldn't crush, and stripped a few nut's out, I think the shock of the impact saves the nut.

I have a few pullers I have ruined by using the impact on.

I dont think this is a good idea. The impact makes heat as you run that nut down.

Ive killed them with my expensive IR gun and then thought I better do them SLOWLY with oil and a breaker bar. Both have failed me.

crash2 · Sep 18, 2009

darius said:
Spend some money on a good impact gun. I've had 1 or 2 I couldn't crush, and stripped a few nut's out, I think the shock of the impact saves the nut.

Using an impact is kinda double edged sword. In one hand the hammer effect against the crush sleeve will help to make it crush. With that said the hammering effect is far harder on the threads.

Thinking back every toy diff I have had an issue with threads on the pinion were not cut perfect. I was unable to run the nut all the way done by hand.

darius · Sep 22, 2009

crash said:
Using an impact is kinda double edged sword. In one hand the hammer effect against the crush sleeve will help to make it crush. With that said the hammering effect is far harder on the threads.

Thinking back every toy diff I have had an issue with threads on the pinion were not cut perfect. I was unable to run the nut all the way done by hand.

there are just problem diff's from time to time as you know, imo a nice impact is the way to go though.

xraidedj · Sep 22, 2009

call 509 888 axle for more info.

Hip · Sep 23, 2009

you might be falling into the lack of qa at manufacturing plants that make fasteners.

Fact: 70percent of fasteners made do not meet the conformance standard they are required to meet.

now just for giggles this is USA manufacturers and the number get really worse when you leave the USA.

we the government, require contractors to buy fasteners from a vendor then we require them to random sample the metalurgy in the lots they buy. at least 70percent reject rate across the country.

the contractors share a list of approved fastener suppliers that do meet requirements and can proove it. they get lots of business.

tomsbrokeagain · Sep 23, 2009

I always crush the sleave with a standard, hardened, grade 8 nut, with lots of lube. I then clean up and install the proper nut on final assembly.

crash2 · Sep 23, 2009

tomsbrokeagain said:
I always crush the sleave with a standard, hardened, grade 8 nut, with lots of lube. I then clean up and install the proper nut on final assembly.

Where are you getting your metric grade 8 nuts for toy pinions at?

Damnyankee · Sep 23, 2009

crash said:
Where are you getting your metric grade 8 nuts for toy pinions at?

you can get them at tacoma screw.

I have gotten them for nissan rear ends.

crash2 · Sep 23, 2009

Damnyankee said:
you can get them at tacoma screw.

I have gotten them for nissan rear ends.

hmm-I have found getting grade 8 stuff for metric stuff always a chore. Its always some odd ball grade...

tomsbrokeagain · Sep 23, 2009

crash said:
Where are you getting your metric grade 8 nuts for toy pinions at?

Whell:eeek: I had a brain fart on that one. I do have some just plain nuts that I use. All of the American/standard threads I have grade 8 for. Sorry been a while since my last Toy diff.

I have stripped quite a few of the original pinion nuts trying to setup gears and found that standard nuts with lots of lube usually cures all.

Damnyankee · Sep 23, 2009

crash said:
hmm-I have found getting grade 8 stuff for metric stuff always a chore. Its always some odd ball grade...

its casue metric is very different than imperial.

imperial grade 5 = metric Grade 8.8
imperial grade 8 = metric grade 10.9
Iperial grade 10 = metric grade 12.9

so, you actually want a metric grade 10 or (thats what they use for nuts)

timberghost72 · Sep 24, 2009

zukkev said:
One thing I've done in the past is, depending on how much it needs to be crushed to set preload, use the press to 'start' the crushing process...doesn't take much usually, just enough to start the crush.

X2 on this. I have had a few tough ones on the 8.8's lately and tried this and it's worked good. Go slow and just start the crush and no more. Good luck..