toyota rearends vs early model bronco

dessertrunner735 · Jun 11, 2008

I am at a crossroad in my crawler build up , its an 86 broncoII 2.9L auto I want to not put a ton of money into it but want to build it tough but not compitition tough for now. what are the pros and cons of the yota axels I know all the strong point of the 9" but not to familliar with yota axels . what is a good set up for yota , I am running 37s any ideas or answers . what ya think let me here it . I am currently running dana 35ttb front w spool 8.8" w spool.

thecableguy2 · Jun 11, 2008

leave what you have in it, put it all back together, and wheel the damn thing

dessertrunner735 · Jun 11, 2008

well i am getting there its almost together a couple more sats of work i am experiencing an out of mony experience ya know how that goes. ive almost got all the fab work done then i will have to go to reiter for a test run.

crash2 · Jun 12, 2008

dessertrunner735 said:
I am at a crossroad in my crawler build up , its an 86 broncoII 2.9L auto I want to not put a ton of money into it but want to build it tough but not compitition tough for now. what are the pros and cons of the yota axels I know all the strong point of the 9" but not to familliar with yota axels . what is a good set up for yota , I am running 37s any ideas or answers . what ya think let me here it . I am currently running dana 35ttb front w spool 8.8" w spool.

A 9" is stronger but the pinion is lower.... Good diffs IMO

Corey Y · Jun 12, 2008

Toyotas are 6 lug, Ford 9" are 5 lug. Eary Bronco 9" rears are getting hard to find, are more expensive, and have weaker shafts. Between the two I would run Toy stuff. The rear driveline flange might be hard to hook up properly. Have you measured the overall width differences? Another option would be a 5-lug Dana 60 out of a early Ford or J-4000(?)

Have you ran with the spooled front end? That is usually a bad idea: poor turning radius, and really easy to break front shafts.

Totalled · Jun 12, 2008

Unless you are swaping in a sold front axle you are already running the strongest combo for a BII on up to 36s. Spooled front would be a bit hard on shafts and joints... but it would be the same as a D44 since the shaft and joints in the TTB D35 are the same size..

31 spline 8.8 > 28 spline EB 9".

Edit: Read your post again. You're on 37s. Are you breaking front end parts? You can get stronger hubs for the front than the factory/std warns.. If you haven't already, 5-760X spicer joints with full circle snap rings are a significant strength upgrade for the front shafts. I did all three joints in mine and haven't broke anything in my front. You can also swap D44 TTB knuckes on and run the stronger hubs, bearings, and bigger brakes from the fullsize.

dessertrunner735 · Jun 13, 2008

are you sure that the outer shafts are the same size ttb35 and the d44 ttb i will have to check this weekend i have a spare one out of my 86 fsb. yes i have exploded the hubs continue to do so when pushed fairley hard. I am a huge fan of the ttb due to the fact that is what i have run on my race rigs in baja. like i said i am getting back to the rocks and want to build a very capible trial rig with minamal problems. i like to wheel not sit still ya know what i mean. i have also thought of running fsb running gear that too will just bolt right in with minimal problems. just wider thats all. any other ideas:awesomework:

Totalled · Jun 13, 2008

Well, some parts of them are smaller.. the stub splines are smaller at the hub... of course, the hub blows up before those go. The shaft from the joint back to the diff is the same size as a 44 till the neck down at the splines... so they are pretty comparable in strength. TTB D44 outers require some fab but nothing outrageous...

If you are going for a rock rig.. a solid axle would work the best. TTB can be made to articulate well with softer springs and extended radius arms.. but it still does it's funky **** when the weight comes off of the front end.

dessertrunner735 · Jun 14, 2008

do you know if they have a trackloc for the d35 , i have one one my fsb d44and it works very well in everything that i have thrown at it.i have actually extended the radius arms for more articulation. i have also considered doing solid axel swap but i still like the ttb . i have also fabbed up square tube drivelines for easy to fix (if they break) and cheap . went with fsb spicer joints . thats also why i am pondering running all fsb running gear , a d60 that is around 52"s is hard to find. but fsb running gear is everywhere and is almost bomb proof if you are running in a 2600lb lighter rig. also would like to find a gear driven t-case other than toyota what else is out ther from a small 4x4 ? dos anyone know ? hummmmm! :beer: :beer:

Totalled · Jun 14, 2008

Well, many people have put the D44 TTB under an RBV. Yes, you can get a few limited slips for the D35 front, you can even use a factory Jeep D35 rear L/S if you use the correct one. I have a lock rite in my D35 and would not want an L/S after wheeling with it.

The easiest way to get a gear driven t-case in it is to use an early bronco D20 with a C4 and a 2.8L C4/C5 bell. Atlas and soon stak have t-cases that bolt onto the stock trans.