Toyota steering arm

Phantom 309 · Jul 22, 2008

I'm looking for stronger steering arms for my Toyota front end. Here's the catch.. It's under a CJ and I don't have room for high steer. As it sits now the drag link is perfectly flat. I'm using a straight pitman arm already and moving the box up isn't an option. I've never broken one but they look pretty weak and I'm sure my day is coming. I've thought of the options of welding to the arms but kind of figured that trying to weld to the cast would end up just weakening them. I'm looking to make both the arm itself and where it mounts to the knuckle stronger. Anyone got any suggestions?

64FJ40 · Jul 22, 2008

What size tires are you running? What does your drag link connect to?

I would talk to Luke at 4x4labs and see if he can make you a set.

TigTorch · Jul 22, 2008

I suspect your not arms are not cast but forged. The surface appearance is similar. Gussets will weld on them nicely.

Phantom 309 · Jul 23, 2008

64FJ40 said:
What size tires are you running? What does your drag link connect to?

I would talk to Luke at 4x4labs and see if he can make you a set.

37x12.5 MTR's.... The drag link ends are heim joints. The stock yota arm was drilled out to accept a stud.

How do I get ahold of Luke?

Thanks for the info.

Pook · Jul 23, 2008

Toy arms are forged as stated above... They weld up nicely if you know how to weld.

Could always run arms off the bottom studs that way you can put in spacers and run the hiems in double sheer. adding a 5th stud is a good way to add some strength too.

OTT makes some real beefy arms if you want to buy arms.

Phantom 309 · Jul 23, 2008

TigTorch said:
I suspect your not arms are not cast but forged. The surface appearance is similar. Gussets will weld on them nicely.

If anybody out there knows for sure, let me know. If that's the case it would be pretty easy to beef these up. I could just do a fifth stud for more strength at the knuckle. Has anyone ever tried putting ARP studs in? Some guys I've talked to say that the best thing is to just leave the stock ones alone and make sure that they stay tight.

Pook · Jul 23, 2008

PHANTOM 309 said:
If anybody out there knows for sure, let me know. If that's the case it would be pretty easy to beef these up. I could just do a fifth stud for more strength at the knuckle. Has anyone ever tried putting ARP studs in? Some guys I've talked to say that the best thing is to just leave the stock ones alone and make sure that they stay tight.

100% sure on the stock arms being forged arms.

ARPs are a very good upgrade. I personally like and run the FROR ARP studs on my rig.

crash2 · Jul 23, 2008

5th stud--never have another problem :awesomework:

Phantom 309 · Jul 23, 2008

Pook said:
Toy arms are forged as stated above... They weld up nicely if you know how to weld.

Could always run arms off the bottom studs that way you can put in spacers and run the hiems in double sheer. adding a 5th stud is a good way to add some strength too.

OTT makes some real beefy arms if you want to buy arms.

Thanks! Running an uppper and lower arm is something I've never thought of. Defintetly something I'll look at doing!

What/who is OTT? Sorry, kinda new to some of this.

WHITE TRASH1 · Jul 23, 2008

www.ottindustries.com

64FJ40 · Jul 23, 2008

PHANTOM 309 said:
How do I get ahold of Luke?

http://www.4x4labs.com/

(530)477-0140

CHOP SHOP · Jul 23, 2008

definatly forged. if ya need proof, cut an old one with the torch. smooth cut = not cast.

and the Idea of running a lower and upper arm is very slick, I like it.

I have welded tons of hobo hysteer before the days of hysteer. they work great if done well. went to the hammers with Odie and ran for 4 days with a hobo hysteer on his old wheeler, no probs.

that double shear idea sounds like the ticket if possible.

also look at newer landcruisers, I believe they have the tierod in back and draglink up front, not 100% sure. im sure someone will correct me if wrong.

post up your solution when done, good luck.:beer:

64FJ40 · Jul 23, 2008

CHOP SHOP said:
also look at newer landcruisers, I believe they have the tierod in back and draglink up front, not 100% sure. im sure someone will correct me if wrong.

80-series Land Cruisers (91-97) do, but the steering arms are mounted on the bottom bearing cap (high-pinion diff and coils). For some reason, I'm thinking that the stud pattern may not be the same, but I'm not 100% on that one (and my wife is gone with the LX)

The 4x4labs arms do the same thing, but in conventional high-steer position on the top cap.

Turtle Bite · Jul 28, 2008

Pook said:
Toy arms are forged as stated above... They weld up nicely if you know how to weld.

Could always run arms off the bottom studs that way you can put in spacers and run the hiems in double sheer. adding a 5th stud is a good way to add some strength too.

OTT makes some real beefy arms if you want to buy arms.

PHANTOM 309 said:
Thanks! Running an uppper and lower arm is something I've never thought of. Defintetly something I'll look at doing!

What/who is OTT? Sorry, kinda new to some of this.

I am running upper and lower arms that have been welded for 3 or 4 years now, they work awesome. I welded 2"x1/2" flatbar to the stock arms and run a 3/4" heim between them. I also have a 5th stud on top but it is probably unecessary. With full hydro, a welded frontend, and 39.5 tires I have not had to tighten a single steering nut either, although I do check them every once in a while. Beware of OTT, I have heard mixed results on their customer service.

ToyZuki · Jul 29, 2008

Phantom. go to POR and look up 4rnrick's sami build (TUKI-ZUKI) he does an awesome job of beefing up the stock arms. he had clearence issues with the hy-steer aswell.