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Trailer talk

Toyotanut

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I know that this comes up quite a bit as well, but lets here what you look for when you are wanting to purchase a trailer. I know I'm starting to look for one and am interested in what others have to say about the different types out there.
 
I still have a lot of work I want to do to my trailer but this is it so far.
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It is just a travel trailer frame with a plywood deck. We ran 2x12x14 over the frame to drive the XJ onto. There is 22' on deck so I can haul the XJ with 2 small quads (sport type quads) or the XJ with my AC 400 sideways. This was a cheap build. I am into it about $900 with the 16" wheels. I hope to add side rails and a few other things as time goes on.
 
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look for trailer brakes on both axels. i believe its a law that tandem axel trailer capable of hauling a "insert weight limit here if i knew it" car must have them on both axels but there are many manufactures that only put them on one axel.

make sure you get it insured for theft. its not very much and hurts real bad when its stolen with no insurance, speaking from experiance here. theft insurance is like less than 40 a year on a trailer. dont need liability when its hooked to your truck.

i love having a lockable box on it to keep trailer stuff in, tiedowns, spare jeep parts lug wrench and stuff like that. also get a spare tire for the trailer as i have had three flat tires over the years.

when its parked in your yard dont make it easy to steal. mine now has a huge chain anchored to a 500 lb block of cement buried underground.

its kinda nice to have a small winch on the trailer also. i end up using mine for much more than hauling my rig around. had many times i had need for one. a small 2000 lb winch can pull a car onto a trailer using a snatchblock and are pretty cheap.

there ya go jason

ohh and if the seller does not have a title from this state go somewhere else:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :censored:
 
Ceg said:
I still have a lot of work I want to do to my trailer but this is it so far.
...It is just a travel trailer frame with a plywood deck. We ran 2x12x14 over the frame to drive the XJ onto. There is 22' on deck so I can haul the XJ with 2 small quads (sport type quads) or the XJ with my AC 400 sideways. This was a cheap build. I am into it about $900 with the 16" wheels. I hope to add side rails and a few other things as time goes on.

What about licensing issues with changing from a camp trailer to a vehicle trailer? Did you go get it reinspected or is it still titled as a camp trailer?
 
i have wood and have experianced no real issues yet. dont know about steel decks.
 
Hip said:
look for trailer brakes on both axels. i believe its a law that tandem axel trailer capable of hauling a "insert weight limit here if i knew it" car must have them on both axels but there are many manufactures that only put them on one axel.

Believe both axles require brakes on any tandem axle trailer in WA, don't think they care about weight or not.

Wood or steel? Seen wood, on the E side of WA, last 10+ years and still going strong. Think he put some wood sealer on the deck at one time. If you go steel, make sure it's thick enough or has enough support to not "droop". We used a trailer to transport a circle burner that had 1/8" diamond plate deck with a 90 deg bend, the deck was open down the center. This worked fine until the owner cut this bend because his drag car tires were wider, the deck started sagging after that.
 
Toyotanut said:
What about licensing issues with changing from a camp trailer to a vehicle trailer? Did you go get it reinspected or is it still titled as a camp trailer?
It cost $50 to have the trailer inspected to change the title over. Just have all you receipts of what you added to make it and the original title. It is that easy.
 
Toyotanut said:
What is the average life expectancy of a wood deck? Do they need to be treated with anything?

My trailer is 12 years old. Wooden deck still in good shape. Sealed in one time. Started with pressure treated 2x12s.
 
Toyotanut said:
What about tilt decks and wood vs steel decks? One better than the other?
My 3/4" wood deck is still ok after 3 years. It is starting to warp in places. I would like to replace the deck with expanded metal except the part where the 2x12s are. My Father-in-Law made a car trailer where the whole deck was made out of expanded metal. It was nice and not too heavy.
 
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Toyotanut said:
I know that this comes up quite a bit as well, but lets here what you look for when you are wanting to purchase a trailer. I know I'm starting to look for one and am interested in what others have to say about the different types out there.

Firstly look by price. Cheaper the better. Secondly look at the sub-frame and axles. You want the sub-frame to be stout. You want the axles to be BOTH electric brakes. Surge brakes are OK, but cost more to maintain. Non-brakes axles are not legal here on tandem axles trailers. Figure you're going to buy all new bearings and brakes anything you buy used. You can re-bearing a trailer for about $100 to $150. Re-decking a trailer will cost about the same with cheap decking, and a little more for pressure treated. Also figure that the lights wont work correctly and you'll spend a little more on bulbs and wiring. Lastly look at the wheels and tires. MOST folks just put on any tire that fits. So you'll have mismatched tires. Buy some real TRAILER tires. They're set up to handle the weight. Plus they're bias plied so that the sidewalls don't flex as you go around the corner (trailers are more prone to dragging the tire during sharp cornering - like parking lots) And a lot of the wheels people use were just lying around so that the tire's offset can be wrong and rub on some of the suspension components. On my trailer, now 12 years old, I've just replaced bearings for the first time. Been repacked every other year. On my 3rd set of tires. Had many many many wiring repairs to the lights. And just had to put bushings in the suspension pieces.

I like my trailer a lot. It's only 12.5 feet deck length with a 4 foot tongue. I've got an over-sized tool box on the tongue to hold spare parts, etc. The length is perfect for a Jeep, etc... The only thing I'd change is that it's got 4 inch drop axles with a 3500 # capacity each. (5lug wheels) and I'd prefer now to have gotten the 4 inch drop axles with 5000 # capacity (8 lug wheels)

edit - also if you do have the ability of a winch, put one here! With the kids all driving now, I regularly am the 'family-tow-truck'. I mounted a 8000 warn on the trailer and have towed the kids's cars about a dozen times when they break down.

Tony
 
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I just use my old 8 to 10 ply truck tires on the 16" wheels I bought for the trailer. Trailer tires cost a lot to replace compared to buying used truck tires. I have a few rigs that run 16" tires so I have a lot of good used tires.
 
I've had both wood and steel deck trailers. If you are dragging hulks onto it pulling cars out of fields with possible locked up wheels etc---steel is the way to go, won't tear up the deck. Downside is that it is usually heavy.

I've seen wood decks last a long time, I've treated them with a sealer, seems to help.

I've had dovetailed rears and I would drag it from time to time. If you are using it for a 4x4 you don't need the dovetail, easier to load but not necessary. If you have a car that is lowered, the dovetail is very helpful.

I've had 16' & 20' (was more like 19' 6" IIRC) decks. I prefer the 16' easier to find a parking spot etc. etc.

Brakes on both axles is different from state to state.
 
also agree on the trailer tires. they are not that expensive. i bought one with a rim brand new for less that 75$ for a spare. my trailer has old car tires and they suck. as they go they will be replaced with trailer tires. they also make the rubber for trailer tires different. the compound for the rubber has something in it to not break down from sunshine/ UV light. tires on cars dont last long enough to do that but trailer tires will last many years depending on use.

someone mentioned clearence under the trailer. mine sits too low. i wish i had like three more inches, it drags rocks going into reiter parking lot. also drags bottom into my driveway. so keep that in mind.

when i was shopping for new trailers Bulldog had the best prices by far in chealis. made it worth the drive at that time.:kissmyass:
 
When looking at the sub frame what should you look for? Do you want it to be fully boxed(heavy) or would a desent sized C channel be sufficient?
 
I have a tilt deck trailer, wood deck, brakes on both axles, dove tail, 18 ft. I replaced the deck wood last year for the first time, but I have had the trailer for 16 years, so I cant complain about that. I am real easy on the trailer however, dont use it as much as I should...
My only thing I would change is I got the low profile trailer, so I drag in a LOT of spots...
Metal trailer are tough, better for hauling hulks as has been stated, but get real hot/cold when having to hook up your rig, and are heavy...
Edit* Mine is C channel, but with a tilt deck, its kinda like having 2 channels...
 
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Toyotanut said:
When looking at the sub frame what should you look for? Do you want it to be fully boxed(heavy) or would a desent sized C channel be sufficient?

On a lot of homebuilt jobbies, the subframe will start sagging with age. Just make sure it looks stout (or stout enough). You'll know. Don't just buy the first trailer you find that's cheap - or you'll end up throwing all the components away one at a time. If the subframe is good, and axles are both electric, the rest of the pieces can be affordably upgraded as neccessary. And there are good to go trailers out there. You'll find folks that buy em to move cross country and never use them again. Also check out the race car crowd for guys getting out of racing.
 
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