Big green remodel

Started by remounting rear steer cylinder up high with new arms...Then gutted rear axle going from 4:10 to 6:17 with gearing

it's about time..lol.......maybe you can make farther then 1/2 a trail without breaking...j/k...looks good!:awesomework:

Lookin Good Kelly!!!:beer:

wear pattern for rear first is drive second is coast

Just a heads up......I cracked two sets of 6.17 R/Ps. One was subsatnially cracked and ready to fail(front) and the rear was just starting to crack at the root of the ring teeth.They were Dana/spicer gears.

I warrantied both sets (Thank you Randy's R/P:awesomework: )and carry a full R/P spare in the tow rig.I NEED to check my front again to make sure the teeth aren't trying to fall off....I'd bet they are cracked at the root at least.

My rig is WAY smaller with alot less horse power(3000# & ~325 horse) so I can't see them holding up in yers any better.My plan is to go 5.38 at the diff and a "baby" stack/3oo 4:1 and take some of the load off the diffs.

I will try them...If or should I say when they fail I plan to go 5:86 or 5:38 as well....But I got a real good deal from Ben(Illyota) on all this stuff so I will try it out....Besides everyone knows I baby my junk.:redneck: But thanks for the heads up mauler

rear all buttoned up....Lube locker gasket and a dynatrac diff cover front next tues

iceman said:

it's about time..lol.......maybe you can make farther then 1/2 a trail without breaking...j/k...looks good!:awesomework:

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When I am running again I will finish that trail.:haha:

today's progress front axle drive side first..... coast second

a little deep? Im surprised you havent broke the 6.17s yet :flipoff:

I thought it was a bit deep as well....i am going to play with it a bit more....as far as breaking them....I have not run them....most of the places i play are real muddy hope they hold if not I will go 5.38 or 5.86

Well I spent the last 4 hours screwing with the pattern and this diff wants to run fairly deep it is better but still a bit deep

Excuse the ignorance, but what is meant by "running a bit deep' when it comes to diffs? :redface:

hwcurtice said:

Excuse the ignorance, but what is meant by "running a bit deep' when it comes to diffs? :redface:

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it refers to pinion depth in the housing.

Cascade_Crawler said:

it refers to pinion depth in the housing.

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So, in the picture, where the wear marks are on the gear, is kinda deep? It almost looks as if there's barely any contact there. ABout where should the contact be?

Illustrations are welcome!

hwcurtice said:

So, in the picture, where the wear marks are on the gear, is kinda deep? It almost looks as if there's barely any contact there. ABout where should the contact be?

Illustrations are welcome!

Click to expand...

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

hwcurtice said:

So, in the picture, where the wear marks are on the gear, is kinda deep? It almost looks as if there's barely any contact there. ABout where should the contact be?

Illustrations are welcome!

Click to expand...

center of ring is the prefered contact area... this set will run fine not sure how well they will hold up to 44s but we will see

So it's deep by about a 1/2 inch or so?

hwcurtice said:

So it's deep by about a 1/2 inch or so?

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The pattern on the ring gear is only off by like 1/4" to 1/2" but that's only a few thousandths of shims to make this difference. You can't always accomplish this. It's more important in my opinion to have a nice "flat" mark on the gear than to have the pattern in the middle of the gear with a sharp edge to it...
I'd run it!:awesomework:

Cascade_Crawler said:

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

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Wow! That is one heck of an article! Thanks!