Wheel studs/steering components

Sheared a hub body off my front end of the F-Toy..wont have that problem any more soon!!!!:;

never broken any myself and i have 5 wheel studs.

but i have seen recently at least 5 rigs that sheared off 6 wheel studs and have never seen 8 wheel studs get sheared.

my new **** has 8.

Hit a boulder and broke the shaft on my steering box.

Broke 3 5/8ths bolts on the heim on my highsteer in the first 6 months of my rig. Double sheered em and its been fine since.

Im going up to 5/8ths wheel studs for my new rims.

Bunk said:

Broke 3 5/8ths bolts on the heim on my highsteer in the first 6 months of my rig. Double sheered em and its been fine since.

Im going up to 5/8ths wheel studs for my new rims.

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Screw in quick start or standard screw in studs?

Broke (at the threads) an exposed heim on a rock, but never broke a bolt. I have big bolts.

Did break a highsteer stud on the rear D60 highsteer 4 bolt. Caught it in time though.......right after finishing a hard run on the Outlet Mall.

Time will tell with the Toyota.

Wheel studs are never an issue with me.

Lets see.....I broke all the studs off on a D60 high steer arm once.... lost the preload spring and cone in the mudhole.....Then broke the entire hydro ram mount off the axle once.... other that that I'm good

I have had 2 issues as pertinent to this thread:

First was with the D44 high steer arms I sheered all the high steer arm studs once or twice once I put bolts in

I have 6 lug wheels.

Sheared the studs off my front axle on the 4runner in Fred Meyer parking lot due to stupid on my part. The wheel spacer had worked loose. Kind of fun watching the front wheel rolling across the parking lot. Truck 3 wheels better than I thought it would, must remember it's IFS days.

Not really related but I think it's a funny pic......pretty much broked it all:redneck: (old buggy)

The current buggy is 8 lug = non issue. The high steer arms are 4 BOLT (not stud) with the bolt thread optimized for max length into the knuckle and red loc-tited. I swap'em out every 8 mos. or so and check'em after every day of wheelin. 2+ years of light wheelin with NO issues:awesomework:

light wheelin'....:haha:

jeepmauler said:

Not really related but I think it's a funny pic......pretty much broked it all:redneck: (old buggy)

The current buggy is 8 lug = non issue. The high steer arms are 4 BOLT (not stud) with the bolt thread optimized for max length into the knuckle and red loc-tited. I swap'em out every 8 mos. or so and check'em after every day of wheelin. 2+ years of light wheelin with NO issues:awesomework:

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Why a bolt over studs?My studs keep coming loose.

Wheeling with my buddy in his 85 runner, at naches, got lost about four hours from camp, 11 pm, sheered all top passenger side studs. Caught a ride to camp, and back with extractors to rob one stud from all sides because we couldn't find studs in yakima. Three days stuck before 410 autowrecking and a used knuckle. Now I use a torque wrench, locktight, and carry spare knuckles. :beer:

Striped two chevy full size steering box arms snaped a doxen or so pitman arms on my old 94 toy. Killed toyota sas stock upper nuckel arm And I have snaped wheel studes just not wheeling
And riped the steering box of the frame on a 79 GMC jimmy

:redneck:

shrek said:

Why a bolt over studs?My studs keep coming loose.

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Originally I was going to do studs,thats what "everyone" does right?

Well Jason C. told me to use quality,grade 8 bolts instead .IIRC it was due to studs linear stretching and the OD of the stud is a fair amount smaller than the ID of the high steer arm's holes. I took it a step further and chased out the threads in my knuckles and cleaned said threads w/brake clean.I purchased the longest,AMERICAN MADE, Gr.8 bolts that allowed for the most thread enguagement while NOT shanking out before drawing tight. I applied red Loc-tite liberally and torqued to 100ft.#'s .

**** works like a champ but I also check tightness daily.

Neither yet

Crazy Daze said:

I broke two steering box sector shafts. One at the CORE challenge (J20 box) and one at Thurston Co. ORV Park (2wd Chev box).

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I remember that:haha::haha::haha::haha:

jeepmauler said:

Originally I was going to do studs,thats what "everyone" does right?

Well Jason C. told me to use quality,grade 8 bolts instead .IIRC it was due to studs linear stretching and the OD of the stud is a fair amount smaller than the ID of the high steer arm's holes. I took it a step further and chased out the threads in my knuckles and cleaned said threads w/brake clean.I purchased the longest,AMERICAN MADE, Gr.8 bolts that allowed for the most thread enguagement while NOT shanking out before drawing tight. I applied red Loc-tite liberally and torqued to 100ft.#'s .

**** works like a champ but I also check tightness daily.

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I did this too.....except the checking daily part.:redneck:

Money Mark said:

I did this too.....except the checking daily part.:redneck:

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I'll remember that and remind you @ the most inoppertune time:flipoff: