• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Hydro help

I took some pics and some measurments so you guys could brainstorm cause I am at the end of my knowledge when It comes to hydro. I tried calling Sean again but nothing. If you can get a hold of him Joe ask him if he could call me please.

Ok, from the center of the KP to the center of the link bolt is 7.5"

The pully is 6.5" stock pully.

And the res is about double the size of the stock one. You can see the welds where I cut the top off and made it taller. The leaky fluid is from if spilling out the top.

My cooler is this one from napa. Screw the linky, I could get it to work either. The cooler is 7.5"x12" and looks like this.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1098.jpg
    DSCN1098.jpg
    79.1 KB · Views: 93
  • cooler.jpg
    cooler.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 88
Last edited:
The NAPA link doesn't work.....What is the hose in the picture that looks like it goes just above the res filler cap?....I know it's not practical but the res is supposed to be the highest point in the system so air bubbles get trapped there. With a stock style pump it's probably not the highest point but you should keep the hoses lower wherever you can and not have any big loops where air can get trapped.
 
Maverick26 said:
Also, if someone could draw or tell me where in my system the cooler should be for best cooling? I have it on my return line but I am having second thoughts. thats where I thought it went.
Click to expand...

I can't post a pic but the cooler should be in the line which returns to the reservoir to a hose barb, not the threaded fitting on the back of the pump......Which makes me wonder how all of your hoses are high pressure if one is going to a hose barb as the steel line won't go over the barb?*EDIT* I see a hose clamp. *EDIT*
 
I think he has a double ended ram so you doesn't need a reservoir just need to go from the orbital valve to the cooler then just plumbed back into the return line on the pump.
 
My system is set up just like the graphic boxboy posted.

Rick,
The line you see in the pic that goes just above the cap is the pressure line that goes to the orbital. The other 3 lines are routed with it also along the frame bar that runs from the shock tower to the dash tube. I didnt feel good about routing them low cause of the posibility of damage or burning on the header. If I end up getting a aftermarket pump and res I will mount the res up high for sure.
 
Binder said:
No it's built into the stock pump. Just making sure you didn't add another one to the system.
Click to expand...

Oh ok, thats what I thought after I thought about it a little bit. So you think I could have an air lock in my lines somewhere? I really dont see anything else that could be the problem. Now that I need a new pump again I may get one that needs a remote res and mount it up higher then all my lines so I can get the air out... otherwise there is really no other way for me to bleed the system right now unless I put a bleed valve in somewhere but that could be a mess.
 
Maverick26 said:
Oh ok, thats what I thought after I thought about it a little bit. So you think I could have an air lock in my lines somewhere? I really dont see anything else that could be the problem. Now that I need a new pump again I may get one that needs a remote res and mount it up higher then all my lines so I can get the air out... otherwise there is really no other way for me to bleed the system right now unless I put a bleed valve in somewhere but that could be a mess.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying you have air in it I'm just saying it's something to look out for. Judging from what you have told us I think you just over modded the new pump.
Even with the attached reservoir it should work fine just as many of them out there do though a remote res would be better.
 
My theory on running stock Saginaw pumps has always been don't up the pressure. Stock they typically have ample volume and pressure. When you bump it up you risk not only damage to the pump but you also add un-needed stress to your steering components.
 
Ok, so now that the pump that is in there is no good should I spend the money and get a new aftermarket one like a POS or Howe with remote res or do another stock one and just leave it alone and see how long it lasts? The first pump I burned up lasted 3 trips out and I didnt mod it at all. I am thinking I may have burned the second one up by modding it but I also think there is some thing in my system that is eating pump also. Its not just killing pumps for no reason. I dont have a clue that it is and when I talk to PSC he said it was the ram being too small thus over working the pump. :eeek: I would like to talk with Sean at POS but everytime I call no one is home. Ill keep trying. I dont want to keep feeding it pumps cause its getting expencive. Just sayin.
 
The only thing that comes to mind is either air is getting induced into the system or a restriction causing the pump to run at max constantly.

I learned a ton when I did robins rear steer buggy on how little restriction in the fittings can cause excessive pump pressures.
 

Similar threads

Monkey Crawler
Scott's Custom Off Road Hydro Pump
Replies
3
Views
1K
pinkstonmm
P
Jacobmc
2rz wireing help/standalone
Replies
1
Views
660
Bebop
B
Diezl
Steering pump options for full hydro
Replies
19
Views
4K
wizzo
wizzo
O
Dana 60 Full hydro steering arms
Replies
12
Views
4K
87TPIYJ
87TPIYJ
U
Full hydro steering, unequal length tie rods causing major handling problems?
2
Replies
37
Views
5K
ridered3
ridered3

Latest posts

Random media

Reiter Map.jpg
B55E3E71-2A6F-4570-96EA-CCC2F798AF85.jpeg
DSC01779.JPG
image.png
HPIM1410.JPG
IMG_0126.jpg
IMG_20130903_172408_400.jpg
IMG_3189[1].JPG
F4DB0BC1-E69F-4603-B6FB-5A5A6832CCE4.png
Top