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Just another toyota build

rover18

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
95
Location
Edgewood, WA
Well, I've had this truck for almost 2 years now, thought I would start a build thread. It sat for a year while an engine swap happened in my brother's rig, finally got in the garage in April of last year. It's a 1985 Toyota Pickup 4wd. I've done what feels like a lot of work, but for a lot of you guys it's probably stuff that could have been done on a weekend. I go to school, so balancing homework, tests and the rig gets kind of difficult.

Now for the plan/ parts already bought:
39.5 iroks on H1 wheels with pressed centers
longfields and hub gears
longfield extra dowel pin
5th stud
Marlin 25mm steering pins and arms
hydro assist
arp knuckle studs and hub studs
5:29s, high pinion arb front, V6 spool rear
V6 calipers, ifs hubs and locking hubs
RUF, chevy 63's
Dual cases, 2.28 front, 4.7 rear, longfield output shaft


Anybody know of this truck or was a previous owner?

Bring on the critiques!
 

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Hard to tell. Drive side looks shallow and coast side looks deep. ^ Try that and see if you can get a cleaner pattern.

Get a picture of the paint transfer on the pinion for us that might help.
 
Are you just slipping that pinion head bearing off? Its supposed to be pressed on! And you may need the thick spacer between the bearing and pinion if there isn't one.
 
Take the mystery out of it. Take it to a pro.

X2.....I did this and have a warranty to go with it. I tried setting up my front, first time ever and I got it close but I figured with ARB locker, new gears and master install kit invested I would rather have it done right so if it fails I can make a shop fix it.
 
X2.....I did this and have a warranty to go with it. I tried setting up my front, first time ever and I got it close but I figured with ARB locker, new gears and master install kit invested I would rather have it done right so if it fails I can make a shop fix it.

Remember a DRIVER can kill a diff in ways not covered by a shop.

Just cuz you paid a shop don't mean you get a "no questions, try to kill it garuntee". If you did, then you found a place that deals in volume and not quality.



But as an installer, I have replaced MORE toy gear sets this year that failed from POOR installs than right foot abuse.


Just cuz les schwab is a huge professional place with a WARRANTEE, I still don't want 17yo kids mounting my tires. garuntee or not!
 
Yes, I am using an inner set up bearing. Yes, I know the inner pinion bearing and the outer pinion bearing are supposed to be pressed on. Are you not supposed to use set up bearings?????

When I took the diff apart it already had shims in it, there wasn't a thick spacer. I tried putting in the original shims, but got a terrible wear pattern. I put the thick spacer in that came with the install kit, but it gave me a terrible wear pattern too.

I would take it to a shop if I had the money, but I don't.
 
The only difference I can see between how I do it and how they do it is they seem to use more GMC and they don't use setup bearings. I'm going to switch to my rear diff that has brand new gears, bearings, and carrier and see if I can't get that one setup.
 
Some buddies and I got some frame and suspension work done this past weekend.
Made an integrated front spring hanger. Used the CNC machine at school to make the plates.
 

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I've decided to have somebody do my diffs. Who knows of somebody in the puyallup area or ellensburg area? Broad area, but the diffs are in ellensburg and I'm living in puyallup area for the summer.

Oh, I have all of the parts, just need them setup. One used high pinion ring gear set with brand new bearings and solid spacer on arb. One brand new v6 ring gear with all new bearings and solid spacer on spool.

Thanks!
 
Finally got back to work on this. The front end of the frame is all closed up and the trans mounts are all done. Time do some frame work on the a$$ end of the frame. Pictures...
 

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I started putting the rear axle back together and need new brakes for the rear. Thinking about doing the rear disc brake conversion. Wondering what peoples thoughts are? I will be running 39.5 iroks on h1's and there is about 200 pounds of extra steel from reconstructing the frame. I just don't know if it's worth the $400.
 
I'm happy with mine. I can actually lock up the rear brakes, before I would roll right through them if I was going down hill.
 
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