-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
ORI tune/setup
- Thread starter jccarter1
- Start date
smbroady82
Well-Known Member
kushKrawlin said:
shhhhh...I have already shown too much!
To keep the strut from bottoming hard, take it apart and plug holes in the top valve plate. Tap them and put 8/32 set screws in the holes. Do!not tap all they way through so the set screw can bottom out in the hole. After I did this on mine, I can take really big hits and still haven't he soft ride that a low bottom chamber pressure provides. If I remember correctly, I plugged 5 of the 8 holes in the rear and six in the front. If you are careful you will not lose any oil. The top and bottom caps seal with orings and I have not had any trouble out of them.
I have also experimented with different viscosity and amounts of shock oil.
I have also experimented with different viscosity and amounts of shock oil.
croes
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2015
- Messages
- 203
Thanks for specs on tapping and blocking off the ports Hudson1, I've always been curious about how hard it was. Throwing resi's on all four corners of my buddies thats in the shop now, also redid the 4 link and got him 3" more uptravel. He likes to play at the dunes a lot so if its still landing hard we may be doing this.
I was seriously leaning that way till I had mine rebuilt to the STX's. I haven't ran my suckdown winch once since the upgrade and the bottoming has gone away.
Think my rig is around 3400 lbs, hopefully throwing it on the scales in the next month or so.
Front lower - 100 psi
Rear lower - 120 psi
I'm really happy with the front but the rear seems a little stiff still. I think I'm going to lower that down to 100-110 for the next trip later this month. Also gonna do some videoing with the gopro so I can see whats going on to better aid in tuning.
I was seriously leaning that way till I had mine rebuilt to the STX's. I haven't ran my suckdown winch once since the upgrade and the bottoming has gone away.
Think my rig is around 3400 lbs, hopefully throwing it on the scales in the next month or so.
Front lower - 100 psi
Rear lower - 120 psi
I'm really happy with the front but the rear seems a little stiff still. I think I'm going to lower that down to 100-110 for the next trip later this month. Also gonna do some videoing with the gopro so I can see whats going on to better aid in tuning.
dynajeep
Well-Known Member
croes said:
Mine were the same, fronts worked awesome the back were on the stiff side. I looked up on pirate for a rig close to my weight and drive train. I copied their pressure on the uppers for the rear. It ended up being quite a bit higher in pressure but figured it was worth a shot and the ride was 1000 x's better. My buggy was 4220lbs 60/14. Can't remember off hand the pressure I ran but I'll look in my notes.
Heat treater
Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2014
- Messages
- 5
My rig is on the heavy side close to 6000lbs normal stuff 60/14 axles sitting on 44's run 150 psi in the lowers and 250-260psi in the uppers with about 6in of chrome showing.
truckbroke
Well-Known Member
Got a question. I talked to ori and the guy said in order to change the lower pressure you had to release all of the pressure out of the top valve first. Is this true??
truckbroke
Well-Known Member
I know this is an older post but, is anybody regretting having ori's instead of coilovers. I've recently bought some fox emulsions and now really thinking about selling them and just running ori's due to the easier tuning, no bumps needed, and no sway bar needed.
Chuck19
Well-Known Member
I have the, on my truggy and building a new buggy also and I'm going to run them on it also in my opinion there is nothing better but I have not had coil overs I could have put them on ether rig but choose not to !
I cannot believe how good they do on my Rockwell buggy right out of the box. Trail riding. I am not a bouncer. Well my belly bounces a little while riding on the trails. I have came down trail two at GMP real fast and they are super smooth. Love em!!
truckbroke
Well-Known Member
Sounds good. I`m running 14" FOAs right now so I gotta do some measuring to see if I need to run 14" ori`s or 16s. I currently have about 7" of shaft showing on my coilovers so I wanna keep it that way. I seen where the ori`s are 1.6" wide so I`m kinda thinking I might can just cheat a little instead of cutting all my brackets off I might can just do some grinding on both tabs till the ORI sqeezes up in there between the mounting tabs.
Re:
I had the same issue going from CO's. I just cut off one tab on the axle and relocated it, the upper tabs I just cut them both and redid them.
You could change out the high misalignment spacers also. Or depending how your mounting is, just run 5/8 misalignment spacers and bolts.
I had the same issue going from CO's. I just cut off one tab on the axle and relocated it, the upper tabs I just cut them both and redid them.
You could change out the high misalignment spacers also. Or depending how your mounting is, just run 5/8 misalignment spacers and bolts.
truckbroke
Well-Known Member
10-4.. Sounds like the way to go. I`ve got 2 air bumps. I think I`m gonna sell both sets of coilovers. Should I just get rid of the air bumps to or you think I should keep them to run with the ORI`s? I`ve seen the misalignments. When you run those its still a 1.6" wide setup correct? I was under the impression you have to run either the 1/2" or the 5/8".. I haven`t looked at the bolts in my shocks now. I figured their probably 1/2".
