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Dana 300 vs toy tcase?

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CrustyJeep said:
I bet rebar works pretty good actually, and nothing says redneck quite like that does :D

I used 5/8" solid round stock for my levers. In black Hammerite of course :D

I meant levers...No paint and little rubber caps for handles.....Yup. I might be a redneck.....I recentli got a bunch of old Jeep partds from my G/F moms back yard and there was a twin stick 18 in teh pile so I used the levers to replace my re-bar.....No more redneck? ...NOT
 
Stan, if your serious you might want to jump on this deal.
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/dana300/rear_out.html

One other thing to ponder, A built d300 is gonna run you anywhere from
$800-$1000 once you upgrade the shafts and buy a used one(unless you got one in the barn i dont know about). You could lowball this some if you just run it stock. Then you mate it to your crawlbox,
even home made is gonna cost you some money. so lets just say $1000 to get your d300 in and running the way you want it.

OR...... Stak monster box 2 speed(5.44 or 4.33) for $1900 minus you selling
you whole toy tcase combo plus th350 adapter... $600(and i think this is low) ==== $1300. Either way you are going to halve to do drive shaft work(either buying flanges or new ends on the shafts so this is a wash). adapter $205. Total for STAK... $1505 out of your pocket. Just something to kick around stan.
 
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sucmah said:
Stan, if your serious you might want to jump on this deal.
http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/dana300/rear_out.html

One other thing to ponder, A built d300 is gonna run you anywhere from
$800-$1000 once you upgrade the shafts and buy a used one(unless you got one in the barn i dont know about). You could lowball this some if you just run it stock. Then you mate it to your crawlbox,
even home made is gonna cost you some money. so lets just say $1000 to get your d300 in and running the way you want it.

OR...... Stak monster box 2 speed(5.44 or 4.33) for $1900 minus you selling
you whole toy tcase combo plus th350 adapter... $600(and i think this is low) ==== $1300. Either way you are going to halve to do drive shaft work(either buying flanges or new ends on the shafts so this is a wash). adapter $205. Total for STAK... $1505 out of your pocket. Just something to kick around stan.

Ben, nope do not have one in the barn so I will have to find one (keep ur eye open:redneck: ) Erick is sopposed to se if Scotty2 hottie has one. I would low ball this and see how that goes. I know it will not be cheap but 2 upgrade the toy case it will cost about the same and prob. not as strong(although I seem to like to do that, cough cough front axle :flipoff: ), and I still will not be able to do front digs since I cannot run the Trail Tuff disconnect.
 
As a rule of thumb the less toy stuff your rig has the better off it will be......No really.:haha:

On a more serious note, your rig is pretty heavy Stan. If it were me I would think more about a aftermarket case.
 
Binder said:
As a rule of thumb the less toy stuff your rig has the better off it will be......No really.:haha:

On a more serious note, your rig is pretty heavy Stan. If it were me I would think more about a aftermarket case.

Or put it on a damn diet.......:flipoff:
 
Binder said:
As a rule of thumb the less toy stuff your rig has the better off it will be......No really.:haha:

On a more serious note, your rig is pretty heavy Stan. If it were me I would think more about a aftermarket case.

Would love to have a stak 3 speed, but its not in my budget plans :redneck:. I realy like the three speed options in my transfer cases, seem to use all options a lot. Heavy its not that heavy :flipoff: why its gotta be under 4k or soo :haha: :haha: .
 
crash fab adapter:cool:
 

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Binder said:
As a rule of thumb the less toy stuff your rig has the better off it will be......No really.:haha:

Or learn how to drive 100% toy:flipoff:
but I will say any over 3500lbs I would look else were for gear
 
Toy case is quite strong.. the design is well thought out (in layout thinking of using a diecast case and having it not fly apart). I think toyota overbuilt it since the LC stock case was such a POS and they learned their lesson. It's only real disadvantage over a 300 is the ability of being able to front drive only and upgradeability like a bazillion ppl have already said in the thread. the 300 is a better design but 4 to 1's are weak and if you use them for alot of high speed your going to burn it up. yeah you can upgrade the outputs on the 300 but you still have the gear weakness issue ( I have tigged alot of 300 4 to1's back together). anything heavy should use a stak Atlas or lovell t-case Even the 205 is good for being stout, other than if you want deeper gearing it comes at the cost of a case. even though the 300 has a stronger rating and the fact it came with a v-8 in front of it I would consider both about equal in stringth. too bad the toy t-case the only kinda strong factory toyota part they have ever done right.
 
one other thought stan, flip a ford 205(same pattern as 300) and twin stick that. Super cheap and no need to upgrade. And you will have two different low range ratios(1.96? and 2.28) . Or I think the newer chevy 205's with the round pattern(not figure 8) are also 300 pattern. . No need to flip. Just something to think about.the downside is the 205 weighs 40lbs more than a 300 and is a few inches taller, couple inches longer, and about 2 inches wider. And the best part of the 205 thing....PTO!!!!
 
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Jason, how are the stock gears holding up, not planing on a 4-1 gear set. I am running dual stock toy cases now and am happy withthe gearing that I have with a auto tranny.
 
sucmah said:
one other thought stan, flip a ford 205(same pattern as 300) and twin stick that. Super cheap and no need to upgrade. And you will have two different low range ratios(1.96? and 2.28) . Or I think the newer chevy 205's with the round pattern(not figure 8) are also 300 pattern(i think) and all you may need to do is get the 32 spline input shaft resplined to slide right in two the cralw box. I think the 85 and newer chevy 205's have a real long input shaft to go right in to the th400. No need to flip. Just something to think about.the downside is the 205 weighs 40lbs more than a 300 and is a few inches taller, couple inches longer, and about 2 inches wider. And the best part of the 205 thing....PTO!!!!

yES the 205 is strong but its big and heavy-----Rather run a lighter unit myself....

Stan the new style of 4:1's are holding up pretty good compared to the early brazed ones--it would hold up to you/me...
 
no excuses said:
mike are u running the stock outputs are have u upgraded to 32 spline ?

I upgraded the rear output mainly due to the angle on the driveshaft and hence more stress on the output. The front I will run till it breaks. But for a trail runner it will hold up well...
 
SysWillys said:
What T/C do you have now? that you can do this that's not a 300 yet makes you still wish you had one?????

Just a little old Dana20. Funny thing is that it has held up to quite the beating...

I am weary of when/if I go to deeper gears that the T-case will be the :nuke: factor...

Although I just learned a bit ago on Pirate that there is a HD Dana20 32 spline rear output upgrade available...

That plus 3.15 gears would be cool
 
Harvester of Sorrow said:
Just a little old Dana20. Funny thing is that it has held up to quite the beating...

I am weary of when/if I go to deeper gears that the T-case will be the :nuke: factor...

Although I just learned a bit ago on Pirate that there is a HD Dana20 32 spline rear output upgrade available...

That plus 3.15 gears would be cool

The rear output and 3:1 have been out for a while now...But their pretty damn tuff outta the box less the 2:1 low range. :puke: If tha stuff was available when I got my 300 I prolly woulda went with it. IMO 3:1 ia bout the perfect low range....Not too tall an dnot too damn low. I run a PFI 327 SBC & Auto. I suppose that makes a difference? :D
 
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