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Dana 300 vs toy tcase?

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no excuses

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so what is the benifits of the dana 300 over a toy case. Who all makes a adapter for the toy/dana 300 doubler setup besides OTT? I already have the toy doubler setup, stock in both cases, is it worth it to and is it a upgrade to goto the dana 300. I am wanting to go to a stronger set up then the stock toy rear tcase and have the ability for front digs, can this be done with a twin sticked dana300? I need some schooling on this :mad: :flipoff: .
 
Stronger than a toy case? Yes. (although I'll probably get some arguers on that one). Front digs with a twin-sticked D300? Yes again. As far as adapters go... don't have any answers for ya there. Sorry.
 
I believe Crash that owns this site offers toy to d300 adapters, yes they are strong, not to mention there are many upgrades, like terra low 4-1, or better yet, jb conversions 4-1 and 32 spline input and outputs, building a d300 gets expensive, but bombproof after, oh yeah, gotta love the front dig.....:beer:
 
Stock i think the toys stronger and the bolt flange u joint is stronger than a strap or u bolt on the 300 but they make sweet parts 4 both and front wheel drive is one of the best upgrades you can do the rear driveline disconect is very strong and easy to install on the toy so for 650 you can keep your toy stuff get the 4340 out put and the driveline disconect and be:cool:
 
I'd go with the D300.....And you can keep your Toy D/S if you don't upgrade the D300 output shafts....Use the High Angle D/L D44-Toy D/S flanges.....Yes D300 stock outputs are exactly the same as D44 pinions......The bill is in the mail...:D

The front dig is awesome and you can also get 2 lo in the rear. The D300 is also 4" shorter then the a stock Toy case...If that matters.

BUT...Your already set up with the Toy boxes.......Get Bobby to Cryo your rear output and call it good....
 
SysWillys said:
I'd go with the D300.....And you can keep your Toy D/S if you don't upgrade the D300 output shafts....Use the High Angle D/L D44-Toy D/S flanges.....Yes D300 stock outputs are exactly the same as D44 pinions......The bill is in the mail...:D

The front dig is awesome and you can also get 2 lo in the rear. The D300 is also 4" shorter then the a stock Toy case...If that matters.

BUT...Your already set up with the Toy boxes.......Get Bobby to Cryo your rear output and call it good....


Only problem with the toy Tcase is no front digs, yea I know go with the rear drivleline disco but it will not fit with how I have my rear case bolted up in the rear. I am using aFROR tcase mount that I modified to fit my application :mad: . Plus I have heard several bad reports about it on the PBB and elsewhere. I did talk to Brian Elinger (FROR) at Goldendale about his and took several pics so I know it will not work for me with how mine is set up. My mounts to the frame are blocking all of the bolt holes that u use to mount it up:rolleyes: plus its $400, plus $200 for twin sticks, plus $200 for 4340 output, plus $200 for 23 spline mods ect ect lol. Sure wish Marlin Crawler would come out with that Tcase they were talking about that could do front digs and had 32 spline outputs :cool: . Thanks for all the replies so far and keep them coming. Oh YEH and PAGING CRASH TALK TO ME ABOUT DANA 300 and adapters :flipoff:
 
wISH I had done a dana 300 long ago. They are more simplistic than a toy case and stronger than a toy t-case except the shift levers--if you force them you do run the risk of bending them..

As for the adapter I am outa materials currently (need a warn dana 44 axle shaft) But The one downside of my setup---you need a marlin/AA dual case adapter to make it work where with the OTT adapter you do not...
 
no excuses said:
Only problem with the toy Tcase is no front digs, yea I know go with the rear drivleline disco but it will not fit with how I have my rear case bolted up in the rear. I am using aFROR tcase mount that I modified to fit my application :mad: . Plus I have heard several bad reports about it on the PBB and elsewhere. I did talk to Brian Elinger (FROR) at Goldendale about his and took several pics so I know it will not work for me with how mine is set up. My mounts to the frame are blocking all of the bolt holes that u use to mount it up:rolleyes: plus its $400, plus $200 for twin sticks, plus $200 for 4340 output, plus $200 for 23 spline mods ect ect lol. Sure wish Marlin Crawler would come out with that Tcase they were talking about that could do front digs and had 32 spline outputs :cool: . Thanks for all the replies so far and keep them coming. Oh YEH and PAGING CRASH TALK TO ME ABOUT DANA 300 and adapters :flipoff:

a dana 300 was one of the best upgrades i made when I built my buggy. I run the 300 stock with crashs adapter and the high angle driveflanges to my toyota drivelines and I pound on it everytime I go out. when I go to a v6 or v8 and automatic I can upgrade the 300 to be way stronger than my toy case. the other thing is I have mine clocked flat and you cant do that with a yota case. Also I really love the front digs its a must have.:clappy:
 
Actually if you don't have a toy dual case adaptor you can get one from marlin that will clock the rear case up so you can have a flat belly. Found that little gem a week after I bought my adaptor.
 
Toyotanut said:
Actually if you don't have a toy dual case adaptor you can get one from marlin that will clock the rear case up so you can have a flat belly. Found that little gem a week after I bought my adaptor.

then the shifter is cocked sideways and the case is not fully flat. for me it worked even better in my buggy because I didnt have the room to put a shifter between the seats:;
 
2 newb questions about clocking the toy case. first, what about oiling? do you even have to worry about that? I was thinking if the case is not sitting level than it is not lubricating itself properly... is it not enough of an angle to worry about it?? second, do you guys get custom shifters made, or do you just deal with them poking you in the ribs?
 
Don't have a D300 but wish I did...

Yes I don't know how I wheeled without twin-sticks...I use that **** seemingly everywhere now...makes it so nice to front or rear burn when *I* want too...

D300 with 4:1's would be lovely
 
Harvester of Sorrow said:
Don't have a D300 but wish I did...

Yes I don't know how I wheeled without twin-sticks...I use that **** seemingly everywhere now...makes it so nice to front or rear burn when *I* want too...

D300 with 4:1's would be lovely

What T/C do you have now? that you can do this that's not a 300 yet makes you still wish you had one?????
 
zig80toy said:
2 newb questions about clocking the toy case. first, what about oiling? do you even have to worry about that? I was thinking if the case is not sitting level than it is not lubricating itself properly... is it not enough of an angle to worry about it?? second, do you guys get custom shifters made, or do you just deal with them poking you in the ribs?

oiling is not an issue and making your own twinn stick is so easy, I bought an after market twinn stick and when i installed it the weld broke on one of the levers and thats when I relized that I could build them way stouter and save some coin too:D
 
sarg said:
oiling is not an issue and making your own twinn stick is so easy, I bought an after market twinn stick and when i installed it the weld broke on one of the levers and thats when I relized that I could build them way stouter and save some coin too:D
X2... Not that hard. I used some blingin' 5/16" heims for my linkage even :D
 
CrustyJeep said:
X2... Not that hard. I used some blingin' 5/16" heims for my linkage even :D

My firtst twin sticks in my 300 were re-bar? :looser: But they worked
 
I bet rebar works pretty good actually, and nothing says redneck quite like that does :D

I used 5/8" solid round stock for my levers. In black Hammerite of course :D
 
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