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80 cj-5...How would you build it??

DHR Motorsports

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Messages
428
Location
Centralia Wa.
It has a 258,t-176,dana 300, 44 front locked,20 rear locked.

Just bought 4" springs to replace the ones on it.

I want to go to a 37-39" IROK and still be able to street drive it on occasion.

What approach to that would you take??

The three things it has to be able to do is

1. fit 39's
2. Be streetable (somewhat legal that is.)
3. Be FUN!!!

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39s & streetable???

To turn 39s at 65 mph, I'd run a small block chev. Because it's a short wheelbase, I'd stick to a manual tranny, probably a T18 or T98. You won't want to stretch the wheelbase, or you'll be a cop magnet with a comp cut rear. Problem will be to fit 39s in a CJ5, you'll have to jack it way into the air, or cut the **** out of the body, or both. If you jack it up, then you'll have driveshaft angle issues.

If it was me.... I'd run that with 35s, and look for a 7, or a YJ/TJ to run 39s.
 
39s & streetable???

To turn 39s at 65 mph, I'd run a small block chev. Because it's a short wheelbase, I'd stick to a manual tranny, probably a T18 or T98. You won't want to stretch the wheelbase, or you'll be a cop magnet with a comp cut rear. Problem will be to fit 39s in a CJ5, you'll have to jack it way into the air, or cut the **** out of the body, or both. If you jack it up, then you'll have driveshaft angle issues.

If it was me.... I'd run that with 35s, and look for a 7, or a YJ/TJ to run 39s.

Has anyone moved the motor forward 6-8" in a cj for better driveshaft angles??
Swapping from a 6 to the shorter sbc would allow me to do that but would it handle terrible??

Will I be able to fit the 39x13.5's with a 4" spring,1" body and some trimming in the rear??

It will only be driven around town and backroads to go wheeling. I don't want a total trailer queen as I hate those. Nothing against the rig but if it has plates then drive that bitch!!!:D
 
Has anyone moved the motor forward 6-8" in a cj for better driveshaft angles??
Swapping from a 6 to the shorter sbc would allow me to do that but would it handle terrible??

Will I be able to fit the 39x13.5's with a 4" spring,1" body and some trimming in the rear??

It will only be driven around town and backroads to go wheeling. I don't want a total trailer queen as I hate those. Nothing against the rig but if it has plates then drive that bitch!!!:D

I sold my CJ5, and bought a YJ, because I couldn't fit 37s in the rear without moving the axle back. Moving the axle back wouldn't work without moving the fuel tank. My 5 was body trimmed massively, and had about 3 inches of lift. I've seen 36s on a 5, but it depends on the true outside radius of the tire, not the stated 'size' of the tire.

You *might* be able to get 39s on it by getting a GenRight fuel tank, then massively trimming, and moving the axle back about 3 inches. However, it's also my lowly opinion that you'll need D60s front and rear if you do run 39s, and the both need to be high pinions to help with driveshaft angles. Probably need about 4 inches of lift total (as a minimum).

You're looking at a BUNCH of money. Front D60, high steer arms, lockers, hubs, Rear D60 (high pinion). Narrowed both front and rear so the tires 'kinda' stay under the fenders. $$$$$$. Then custom steering, custom radiator (to keep the V8 cool), custom hoses, custom wiring. Need some adapters to fit the Chevy into the CJ, adapt the Chevy to whatever tranny you decide, and adapt the tranny to the D300 (keep that, it's good). Custom lifts, Custom driveshafts.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Keep it 'little', keep the I6, tranny and t-case. Put some one piece axles in the AMC 20, and wheel it the way it is. That's a sweeeeeet CJ. Leave it alone.

edit - and there's not enough room to move a motor forward enough to make a difference. You'll need that room for a bigger radiator and shroud. Might get an inch or two, but not enough. And if you did move it forward massively, you'll have interference issues with the oil pan and the front differential. Plus, you're 'ballance' of the jeep won't feel right. Too much weight on the front.
TreeClimber out.
 
I sold my CJ5, and bought a YJ, because I couldn't fit 37s in the rear without moving the axle back. Moving the axle back wouldn't work without moving the fuel tank. My 5 was body trimmed massively, and had about 3 inches of lift. I've seen 36s on a 5, but it depends on the true outside radius of the tire, not the stated 'size' of the tire.

You *might* be able to get 39s on it by getting a GenRight fuel tank, then massively trimming, and moving the axle back about 3 inches. However, it's also my lowly opinion that you'll need D60s front and rear if you do run 39s, and the both need to be high pinions to help with driveshaft angles. Probably need about 4 inches of lift total (as a minimum).

You're looking at a BUNCH of money. Front D60, high steer arms, lockers, hubs, Rear D60 (high pinion). Narrowed both front and rear so the tires 'kinda' stay under the fenders. $$$$$$. Then custom steering, custom radiator (to keep the V8 cool), custom hoses, custom wiring. Need some adapters to fit the Chevy into the CJ, adapt the Chevy to whatever tranny you decide, and adapt the tranny to the D300 (keep that, it's good). Custom lifts, Custom driveshafts.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Keep it 'little', keep the I6, tranny and t-case. Put some one piece axles in the AMC 20, and wheel it the way it is. That's a sweeeeeet CJ. Leave it alone.

edit - and there's not enough room to move a motor forward enough to make a difference. You'll need that room for a bigger radiator and shroud. Might get an inch or two, but not enough. And if you did move it forward massively, you'll have interference issues with the oil pan and the front differential. Plus, you're 'ballance' of the jeep won't feel right. Too much weight on the front.
TreeClimber out.

Thanks!!! :D

I just put 4" springs on it today and I am "just" going to 37's

You are right as I don't want to ruin the thing as it is a good looking rig that is still streetable.
I am going to fab tube fenders front and rear to help keep it legal also.
It already has lockers F/R and 1 piece axles in the rear with a D44 up front.

Thanks for the input.:awesomework:

Sometimes I don't slow down enough to see that I'm about to creat a disaster!!!
I do that enough already with my drag cars!!!:mad:
 
Even 37's are going to create braking issues, too. Do you have manual brakes or power? With 37's, it's probably time to think about hydroboost. IMO, (and repeating above) 35's are pretty much max on a CJ-5. How wide is the front axle? For me, switching from my Narrow trac to Wide Trac, 2 1/2" lift I had to get longer brakelines, unless you want to use THOSE as your limit strap. I would bet it's cut to match the rear, is it WideTrac (56" WMS to WMS)? The larger the diameter of the tire, the more issues you will create with rubbing as you turn. Teh list of things to consider is vast, and you get to the point of unintended consequenses pretty quick.
 
Id do a LT1, th350 to a d300, 60 rear 44 front with 37's. Then it would be painted black cause black is the new white.:redneck:
 
I'd go with 33's a different rear axle arb's keep it low flat belly skid and pick creative lines around the trails. I guess basically leave it like it is, maybe move the rear axle back a little and do the fuel tank thing.
 
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