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another thread: fullwidths vs toyotas

One thing to be said about a 60---its the last diff you will ever have to buy.....

I sure freakin hope so....Im tired of buying axles....I just got my front hp60 last Tuesday and I'm about to get the last rear axle I will ever need to buy soon also, a 14bolt. Both with the last lockers I will ever need to buy, DETROITS. Currently I'm running a hp44 and a d60 rear, I love full width.:cool:

Now that I work at JT's Parts and Accessories I can buy stuff alot cheaper at least....thank god!:stirpot:
 
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I have to agree that building toyota axles is cheaper. But i am on my third full sized jeep and i wouldnt have it any other way. I have ran an 8 lug 44 front and 8 lug 14 bolt rear for a long time now and on 39.5s. And knock on wood i have never broke a shaft or an axle joint. The only thing ive noticed is that the dana 44s wheel bearings cant hold up to the tire weight. So ive learned to keep up on the routine maintenance and have had very good luck so far. Do a crossover steering and a beefy draglink and you will like it. Also ive never cut any of them down. And i run elbe,evans,natches and lots of other places and fit just fine. You can walk the whole busy wild and fit the whole way. You will find that you have to take it a bit slower then the narrow width guys because its a little tighter for ya but a lot of people actually half of the guys out their are running pretty wide rigs so the trails are wide enuff. Ive ran all kinds of toyota set ups and i like the dana 44 better. But thats just my opinion it all works.
 
newbie here, but a 14b sounds way overkill under a rice-wheeler.
i agree the yota axles would work way better, in the snow.
full widths would be cool with v-8 power imo.
:beer:
 
He said he is gonna do dual cases so the gear reduction woul be good with the full width but he also needs to remember it will not be street legal with full width and theirs something to be said about beeing legal or close to in this state. And one nice thing about the youta stuff is the huge aftermarket world behind them.
 
If your going to build a toyota why would you want to use a D44 frontend

first of all, thanks for all the input guys! the reason i would use a d44 front end is because i have 2 of them and im also only gunna to be a senior who just finished his summer job, which means $2000 or less to spend and use the parts you already have. if i can find a cheap toyota with a solid front axle, ill probably go that route, but if not, the only thing i have is the fullwidths. i plan on wheeling the rimrock area the most, then the autanum forest in the winter/snow. again, i would put the money into my chevy as its already fairly capable, but its just wayyy to cherry to screw it all up. another thing i was thinkin is if i went the fullwidth route, i could get a yota with efi and ifs rather than searchin for the "rare" 85 toy.
 
It is all how ya wanna roll...challenging inter forest trails are for the smaller WB vehicles and those young enough to deal with the hazards....me I am older, like comfort and exploration with out all the breakage and winching, hell been there and done that so I have my FSJ and get out, explore and camp deep...Neither is right or wrong, its just the experience you want to have....

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I guess in the end it is the people who never know and live in the city, and the ones who do and live where they please...
 
here you go (puo). Instead of reading what you post. Take your two grand and go spend a grand on a 60 then another grand if not more for a locker and steering even though we already know you only have two grand because you cant realy call yourself a wheeler unless you have a 60. In other words to them its either toyota or a 60 all the other stuff in between is all junk the guys that use dana 30s and 44s and nine inches dont have real wheelers.:masturbanana[1]:
 
newbie here, but a 14b sounds way overkill under a rice-wheeler.
i agree the yota axles would work way better, in the snow.
full widths would be cool with v-8 power imo.
:beer:




Running a doubler and beating your junk hard with big tires pushes a stock set of 'tons very hard even with a small engine. Sure you can toss a v8 in front of them but you'll need to upgrade them if you want to go full retard...

I only have 4 cylinders of fury but I look forward to breaking the stock stuff so I get to upgrade. :D
 
here you go (puo). Instead of reading what you post. Take your two grand and go spend a grand on a 60 then another grand if not more for a locker and steering even though we already know you only have two grand because you cant realy call yourself a wheeler unless you have a 60. In other words to them its either toyota or a 60 all the other stuff in between is all junk the guys that use dana 30s and 44s and nine inches dont have real wheelers.:masturbanana[1]:



Why does he have to spend his two grand on a 60 and locker/steering???


I got mine for free...


You don't have to spend money, you just need to know what you're looking for and jump when the time is right...


I'll say to the original poster, go buy or build something that you have the skills and money for...

Then run what you brung...

You'll have plenty of time to think, spend and build later...
 
Gear reduction will break more stuff than a motor will....

This is so true and few people really get it.

Think of your average friday night bracket racer with a 500hp motor. This guy will run a very sticky tire and make a stock 10 bolt with a posi live even with deep gears and a stick. Take that same rig, make it ugly and add 4wd with a t-case and the 1st time the guy puts the pedal down in low range that rear axle is going to come unglued like LRZ's stomach after Ann's jello shots.

BTW- Manual trans rigs break more parts than auto trans rigs.
 
Gear reduction will break more stuff than a motor will....

I would expand upon that, that it's all gear reduction and a engine alone will NEVER break a axle. It's all about torque and rarely do you see wheelers with engine torque over 500 ft lbs. Look at the specs on even the smallest axles and it's in the tens of thousands ft lbs. Without gears axles would live forever.
HP has nothing to do with it BTW.
Oh and toy axles are :rb::flipoff:.
 
I would expand upon that, that it's all gear reduction and a engine alone will NEVER break a axle. It's all about torque and rarely do you see wheelers with engine torque over 500 ft lbs. Look at the specs on even the smallest axles and it's in the tens of thousands ft lbs. Without gears axles would live forever.
HP has nothing to do with it BTW.

Exactly, take my junk for instance. Figure my freshly rebuilt warmed over 22re on a good day puts out 150 ft lbs of torque. Now multiply that weak, you ain't breaking **** with it amount of torque by my final gear reduction of 217:1 and you end up with 32,550 at the wheel. Couple that with the abusive nature of direct drive through a 5 speed and you end with 4 cylinders of axle snapping fury. :redneck:
 
Exactly, take my junk for instance. Figure my freshly rebuilt warmed over 22re on a good day puts out 150 ft lbs of torque. Now multiply that weak, you ain't breaking **** with it amount of torque by my final gear reduction of 217:1 and you end up with 32,550 at the wheel. Couple that with the abusive nature of direct drive through a 5 speed and you end with 4 cylinders of axle snapping fury. :redneck:

exactly--gear reduction is harder on parts :awesomework:
 
here you go (puo). Instead of reading what you post. Take your two grand and go spend a grand on a 60 then another grand if not more for a locker and steering even though we already know you only have two grand because you cant realy call yourself a wheeler unless you have a 60. In other words to them its either toyota or a 60 all the other stuff in between is all junk the guys that use dana 30s and 44s and nine inches dont have real wheelers.:masturbanana[1]:

If you not breaking a D44 with 39.5s your not a real wheeler, your just afraid to break parts :rolleyes:

Oh and my locked D60 cost me $700. The full hydro setup was free :flipoff:
 
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