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Beadlock Wheel Talk



Funny as I had nothing but good business from them.

I placed an order for some custom rock rings and I got the dimensions wrong that I submitted to them. They ate the cost and sent me another set of rock rings for free with the correct specs.

They were timely and polite. Nothing but good business. I will be ordering from them again when I have needs for their services.
 
When me and Casey did my diy set, I bought some 1/2"x1/8"x36" steel from home depot and made anti coning rings... Worked great... I got my diy set from the guy on cl down in Rochester...

A buddy has some TRs and they coned really bad and destroyed the hardware...
 
A buddy has some TRs and they coned really bad and destroyed the hardware...

What kind of hardware were you running?

I ran a set of ruffstuff specialties diy beadlocks and they coned almost together. I ran grade 8 hardware with a washer on the bolt head side and a "whizz nut" on the inner side.

Zero problems. Even after I took them apart and sold them.
 
A buddy has some TRs and they coned really bad and destroyed the hardware...

Those must be an older set of converted steel wheels, you'll need to add anti coning rings to any steel beadlock that doesn't have those stamped rings.

I made steel beadlocks and would never run anything but aluminum if your looking for the "best" beadlock.

In my opinion Trailready makes the best Aluminum Wheel, the HD series will not cone, the rings seat on the wheel for a perfect fit. The bolts fully seat since the rings do, out of 5 sets I've never had one hardware problem,or any problem for that matter.
 
FWIW I ran that set of Ruff stuff specialties DIY kit with 39 bolts on a 15 inch wheel for a long time with zero issues.

Les Schwab black steelies with the RSS DIY kit and grade 8 hardware. I beat them hard and never had a problem.
 
So 2.5bs steel rims cannot be beadlocked correct, unless its double beadlocked?

Any rims to stay away from?

I was thinking about getting some 3.5-4.5 BS pro comp/cragar black soft 8s and welding on some DIY kits.
 
Those must be an older set of converted steel wheels, you'll need to add anti coning rings to any steel beadlock that doesn't have those stamped rings.

I made steel beadlocks and would never run anything but aluminum if your looking for the "best" beadlock.

In my opinion Trailready makes the best Aluminum Wheel, the HD series will not cone, the rings seat on the wheel for a perfect fit. The bolts fully seat since the rings do, out of 5 sets I've never had one hardware problem,or any problem for that matter.

Yep... He's had then forever...
 
All the ones I've done have not had any anticoning rings, but that's not to say he doesn't already have something for that...Maybe he'll chime in...And even if he doesn't, that's an easy remedy...:awesomework:

total metals havie integrated anti coning! pretty slick. bead stays nice and centered on the rings:awesomework:
 
Kevin had a good point about TR being local as well, good wheels and supporting local business is something I do like.

I better start saving my penny's, thankfully i cant even use the tires until spring anyhow
 
TrailReady all the way. Local Company. ONLY one that's 100% USA made. Great customer service. Hell, the guy who machines them is a member here (Jeepmauler). FWIW, I've run Krawlers (37's) on Raceline's and TR's and only ever had inner bead burping issues with the Raceline's. Oh, and when you get close to being ready, I can get you a great deal on the TrailReady's.

John
 
Love my Aluminum TR's. No problems losing an inner bead like my buddies allieds. On a snow run a few weeks ago we spent more time F'n around with his tires then wheeling.
 
So 2.5bs steel rims cannot be beadlocked correct, unless its double beadlocked?

Any rims to stay away from?

I was thinking about getting some 3.5-4.5 BS pro comp/cragar black soft 8s and welding on some DIY kits.
My Allied bead locks are 2.5 back space and just locked on the out side(steel wheel). I had Pro comp rock crawler rims prior to this and wasn't able to do the DIYS bead locks because you had to mount the wheels back wards on the rim.
 
What about getting just a plain set of steelies and some inner airlocks for your Iroks? Both beads would be retained then.

Jakob runs em(well stauns, same difference), and tires seem to be the 1 thing he doesn't have issues with.:fawkdancesmiley:
 
TrailReady all the way. Local Company. ONLY one that's 100% USA made. Great customer service. Hell, the guy who machines them is a member here (Jeepmauler). FWIW, I've run Krawlers (37's) on Raceline's and TR's and only ever had inner bead burping issues with the Raceline's. Oh, and when you get close to being ready, I can get you a great deal on the TrailReady's.

John

I will be giving you a call when it gets close to mounting these tires up John :cool:

Love my Aluminum TR's. No problems losing an inner bead like my buddies allieds. On a snow run a few weeks ago we spent more time F'n around with his tires then wheeling.

When you gonna tell me when you go wheelin ya punk? :redneck:

What about getting just a plain set of steelies and some inner airlocks for your Iroks? Both beads would be retained then.

Jakob runs em(well stauns, same difference), and tires seem to be the 1 thing he doesn't have issues with.:fawkdancesmiley:

Except in the snow he cant go below a certain pressure which can sometimes be a problem as well
 
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