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Building my junk.

Totalled

That Ford Guy
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
4,477
Location
Cold can of Oly
I'm shooting for about 5" of lift over stock. I'm using a 4" Tuff Contry lift that will be tweaked. I put the 302 into it last summer. This summer is stronger axles and a winch.

The front axle will be a D35 TTB from a 4.0L Ranger or Explorer replacing the stock D28 TTB. In my case it's from a 1994 Ranger. The rear axle is a 8.8 from a 91 Explorer, replacing the stock 7.5. There's not much really weak about the 7.5 once you lock it or weld it, but the 8.8 has 31 spline shafts vs 28, and 10" vs 9" brakes. Will be geared at 3.73 to start. Tires will be 34x10.50x15 TSL LTBs on stock sploder 15x7 wheels. If I did my figurin' right... with the front and rear axles 1.5" wider than the stock BII, and the 4" BS vs the stock 3.75" wheels, I whoud have the tires right at the edge of the wheel well lips... hopefully I won't have to do anything but add mudflaps...:rolleyes:

Anyway, here's what I have done so far:

3-18-06
SUNP0003.jpg

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The shackles are the chevy drop units from summit. The are 7.5" long. Stock are 4.5" long. The shackles gave me 1.75" of lift. The add a leafs gave me another 2" of lift. So, with the 1.5" the exploder springs already gave me, I'm now 5.25" over stock in the back. Front next...

4-2-06
Tore the D35 apart today. fawkin A. This thing was rode hard and put away wet and broke. The driver's side spindle had the inner bearing spin and then weld itself to the spindle, and was driven on till the bearing cage desintegrated, and the rollers fell out when I pulled the rotor off... both sides had more mud than grease in the bearings, and both beams had mud/sand/ect packed in them from the joints to the pig. I got to replace every seal in this thing except the pinion seal, all the wheel bearings, the joints, and probably the rotors. Earlier I debated just lifing the truck and running the D28 and 7.5.... we'll see how long it takes to piece this back together...

Spindle:
fuct-spindle.jpg


4-3-06
seals-bearings.jpg


Replacing every seal and bearing in a D35 but the pinion and carrier: $158

Not having to tear it apart any time soon: Priceless.
 
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4-7-06
I'm sure glad I decided to replace all the joints. Even the joints that weren't siezed were rusted inside.

rusted-joints.jpg


I haven't tried to clean these nasty rotors up yet. I hope they're useable.

D35-rotors.jpg


4-23-06
I decided to paint **** since I'm taking my time... I'll look pretty till the first time it goes off pavement anyway...

BLING! BLING!

:D

bling-axles.jpg


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painted-beam.jpg


That brings us up to today.. I put a lockright into the D35 front. The D35 TTB uses D44 u-joints, so I used spicer 5-760X joints and ground the yokes to clear full snap rings... so hopefully I'll never squirt a cap.

You can put a lockright into a D35 with out pulling the carrier to pull the roll pin out, to get the crosspin out of the carrier if you have a long, skinny screwdriver.

D35-pin2.jpg

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I desided to use the e-clip instead of fawking with a spring. I'm gonna put a drain plug into the beam in front. So I don't care about having to pull the pig if I frag the center joint or shaft. You have to grind the outside edges down a little so that the e-clip will fit inside of the cap that goes over the end of the axle in the lockright. The passenger side shaft is retained into the iff using an e-clip stock. Some people that lock TTB D35s use a spring in the slip joint of the shaft to keep the stub in the pig.. I decied not to.

SUNP0053.jpg


Tada! :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

D35-locker.jpg


Hopefully I can get the small **** done on the front tomarrow, and mabye get the 8.8 squared away.. then I can put eddie into the garage hopefully sat/sun and start pulling the old junk out. :rockon:

I have to pull the 302 out to have room to grind off the rivots that hold the stock TTB pivot braket to the engine crossmember... since the sump sits 1/16" away from it.. I'll take the opertunity to seal it's leaky ass up... so I'll no longer be tha asshole that leaves oil spots on the trail. I hated that. :mad:
 
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Thanks man. :hi:

I got some more small **** done saturday and yesterday.

The second original spindle was junk. The ****tard the owned it last wheeled it and did no maintence so is has a rusted groove in the wheel seal surface. Yet another $20 at pick a part...

Got the shafts assembled and got the spindle bearings replaced, packed, and sealed.

D35-completed-shafts.jpg


Drainplug.

D35-drainplug.jpg

D35-drainplug2.jpg


1/4" NPT.


Yeah. I know. Most of the guys on this site are probably like :rolleyes: :looser: :kissmyass: .... But I enjoy the :wtf: looks I get from you guys when I'm out on the same trails you are.
 
I bet that thing will do real well on the trail. Also, not a lot (comparatively speaking) of other people are building those which raises the cool factor quite a bit. Also, some folks talk crap about those front TTB axles, but the way your building it, it looks like it should hold up just fine. Plus you will have better traction on road and at higher speeds than the rest of us straight axle folks..... well done!!!! :pray: :pray:
 
Got the 8.8 Nekked. ready for perches and shock mounts. Gotta replace the trac lock and cut the ears off the new cover, then it's ready to go under the truck. :D

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Blam! No oil stains on the 8.8... :D

bling-8point8.jpg


Got the trash lock repacked with an extra clutch and a F-150 S spring. Should work till I can get a real rear locker.
 
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