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Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)

I don't know what application the dipstick was for but it was the wrong length (actual dipstick) but that was an easy fix. I roughly had to remove 1/2" from it to make it perfect.

So I got it installed and it really turned out nice I think.


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For the mount placement I simply had to swap the brake line mount/bend the whole works over and drill some holes---easy peasy.


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Figured while I was on a roll I would get the trans shifter finished up on the tranny side.

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Oh, lokar... Make sure it stays far away from the exhaust... I had an engine oil dipstick in mine that was close to the manifold... The inner plastic liner melted and oil sprayed onto the exhaust when off camber.

Oh ya :awesomework::awesomework::cool:
 
Oh ya Chris--this aint going to work. Not only is it way to short--there will be a clearance issue with the tranny if it was the right length.


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So here is something cool--I think I am going into the exhaust bizz I feel I did such an awsome job---Fawking MIND blowing...:redneck:


Ok not so much. I did this so I can run it without worries of doing any damage to anything.


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So up early today and going to get some "good" gas for it and run it.
 
Crap.... Well first bad news we have had so I'm happy.... What length drive lines do I need... If you keep the kit I will return it... I won't focus to much on the tranny the guy said it was freshly rebuilt.... Flakeslist.... So we still need a oil dip stick out are you going to be able to crash fab that? Any other supplies?
 
Oh ya I saved it for ya to return. Just out of curiosity I looked the kit up because the gasket was right--and somebody had to have made a switch because that was the right kit.

Ya I agree--run it....

In fact--going to go run it hot here in a bit.
 
If I do end up needing a new tranny is the tail shaft bolt pattern the same for a 700r4? I assume I would have to send in the shifter to trade for one with over drive..... Just thinking ahead
 
BTW the tires arrived:):D and I found a buddy who builds drive lines for big rigs at a ship in my home town so Igot a nice hook up for whenever you get new the lengths I need :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
So I ran the motor for close to an hour to make sure of no coolant leaks. I always run with water first since if there is a problem them its allot less mess. So no leaks and the radiator is very efficient and the coolant fan works like it should so I drain/filled it like 3 times to get the system cleaned out as best as I could and then added coolant. It will need a good coolant flush after its been on the road for a while.

But the original plan was to use a lokar dipstick for the motor and chris had asked if I could make the stock one work. Well I know its possible.

To make it fit I ended up removing a portion of the tube below the sealing point at the block. I did this with mine and never has been an issue but its the only way to get it into the motor with the heading in place.

So after doing that and reworking the tube I got it all to fit nicely. The only issue is its a lil snug to get the dipstick down the tube because of the bends but its only a matter of being patient with it.

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So another one to scratch off the list as done...
 
So next to figure out how to get the coolant res done up.

Well here is what I came up with--I think it turned out pretty decent and should work well.

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So that makes the cooling system completely done--another thing off the list..
 
Next--the accelerator cable.

Make sure to simply use the gm cable that came with the motor. For where it goes thru the firewall the gm cable uses a square hole and all you have to do it use a file and simply file the stock hole square to where the gm cable snaps into place.

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The gm cable will be longer from the firewall to the pedal assembly to where you will only get 1/2 throttle out of the pedal.

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There are a couple methods to correcting this and here is how I do it. I modify this area of the pedal assembly

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Some pedal assemblies you will have to open up the hole at the top where the cable retainer pops into place but the 3rd gen's seems to be the right size with no mod needed.

So I found extending the pedal 1/2" and raising it 7/8" was damn near perfect and I used 5/16 round stock.

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So there is like 1/16 slack in the cable--perfect..

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So I can check that in the finished box....
 
Way off topic, but has any one ever built a mount to replace the factory AC compressor with a York? I don't want to loose my oba so I had to ask
 
Way off topic, but has any one ever built a mount to replace the factory AC compressor with a York? I don't want to loose my oba so I had to ask

I have on a tbi version. Nice thing about the mount on the SCPI motors is a nice flat platform to build one on.
 
With x-mass around the corner been busy with other things and came out into the shop for some play time and found this.

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Damn water pump is toast.. I have seen this before when a well used pump sat with no coolant against the seal for some time and shits the bed shortly after its used again. Of course the rusty crap in the system prior did not help any.

So Once the pump was off I said screw it and flushed the living piss out of everything--pulled the block drains and washed its vagina out ;) .

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I replaced the pump and did a couple more fill/drains and again has fresh coolant--the system is now perfect and ran it for over an hour again.
 
I did manage to get this made and in so the top of the tunnel now is enclosed and a base for Chris to work off of for the shifter.

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I was going to throw the seats in but I have no idea what they came out of as the mounting setup is "way" different than what it should.
 
Those seats are out of a newer runner.... I thought they would work? Do I need to find something different or will they work? Coming up late next week to bring you cash, rear disk swap, tail lights, seat belts, and hopefully an ignition
 
Na they are "way" different..

Cool I can use the ignition as I don't know if using a screw driver is causing a cam sensor code or not to set. I gotta get you drive shaft measurements still to.
 

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