Chris's toy (Sandtrap1986)

[crash2]

Mark finally got a chance to finish up the I-shaft and turned out perfect.

Some really good/hot metal burning and some paint and all good.

So I hooked up the drag link and fired it off and the steering feels really good so that can be scratched off the list.

 

[crash2]

Here are the driveshaft measurements Chris..

Front 42 1/8" Make sure its as thin as possible for clearance against the tranny pan.

Rear is 53 1/2"

This thing is "this" close to be ready for exhaust.

 

[Sandtrap1986]

On it

 

[Central4runneR]

Here is the radiator Chris had for the project. I am not sure who's it is but it was made for this conversion.

Here is the cooling fan I had Chris get. Its the same one I have been running for years and never ever had a cooling issue--it really moves some good air...

Nice thing about this radiator is its very similar to mine and made mounting the fan a piece of cake...

POS connector--I cut this thing off and threw it at out cat....

I used sealed connectors for the fan..

Fitment of the rad was nice "except" I have a clearance issue with one of the steering box bolts since the inside of the frame is plated with 1/4" for the box. I will have to fix that later.

I have been reading through this thread and your work looks second to none. I am curious on this radiator if you would be able to find out what it came out of. I have the same engine in my 4runner and the fan smashed the radiator. Now im looking at options for a replacement. Also some info on the fan as well. Thanks :beer:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

Here is the fan

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102120

And the mounting kit. Your rad is just like mine and this kit will be perfect

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30130011

For dummy proof I suggest running a thermal control switch(how mine is) with a 185 degree thermostat.

I was looking for a single post therma switch (195 on 185 off) but all I could was find this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30110/

 

[Sandtrap1986]

Pretty sure this is the radiator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-716681
Though I got it from a buddy all he told me is it was made by advance adapters

 

[stealthrunner1]

Pretty sure this is the radiator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-716681
Though I got it from a buddy all he told me is it was made by advance adapters

Yep that's the one had one in my V-8 4-runner back in the day!!!!:awesomework:

Rig is looking good!!!Crash does some nice work!!!!:awesomework::beer:

 

[Central4runneR]

Cool thanks for the info sandtrap

 

[MORT1]

So I ran the motor for close to an hour to make sure of no coolant leaks. I always run with water first since if there is a problem them its allot less mess. So no leaks and the radiator is very efficient and the coolant fan works like it should so I drain/filled it like 3 times to get the system cleaned out as best as I could and then added coolant. It will need a good coolant flush after its been on the road for a while.

But the original plan was to use a lokar dipstick for the motor and chris had asked if I could make the stock one work. Well I know its possible.

To make it fit I ended up removing a portion of the tube below the sealing point at the block. I did this with mine and never has been an issue but its the only way to get it into the motor with the heading in place.

So after doing that and reworking the tube I got it all to fit nicely. The only issue is its a lil snug to get the dipstick down the tube because of the bends but its only a matter of being patient with it.

So another one to scratch off the list as done...

what was the part number for the lokar dip stick? cant seem to find one that is application specific?????

 

[stealthrunner1]

I have been reading through this thread and your work looks second to none. I am curious on this radiator if you would be able to find out what it came out of. I have the same engine in my 4runner and the fan smashed the radiator. Now im looking at options for a replacement. Also some info on the fan as well. Thanks :beer:

But....Had a Ron Davis Rad with a Spal 16" fan on it from Ron Davis....That the fan never worked from day ONE....But gave Spal the benefit of the dought!!!!so bought a 16" Spal fan with curved blades and I'm happy so far!!!! Just saying that you can get a bad fan here and there!!!:awesomework:

 

[Sandtrap1986]

Trying to make it up your way sometime this week mike... Been super sick and don't want to spread this virus

 

[crash2]

So Chris stopped off some more stuff. He had picked up a used rear disc setup. So I turned the rotors and looked over the calipers--they were badly rusted/junk. So I grabbed a new pair, pads and hoses/hardline to get it done up.

So next I started working on getting the shocks figured out. I have always been a big fan of the Bilstein's and I have used the 5125's before with great success.

For the rear since I have plenty of room to play with the 12" stroke will be perfect.

For the front I can set the shock at ride height at 25-26.5" so a 14" stroke is really looking like the choice from compression/extension..

Anybody know what size hole the bushing on the bilstein shocks is?

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

9/16" or 1/2" w/ the sleeve.

 

[crash2]

9/16" or 1/2" w/ the sleeve.

Thanks Chad--I could not find any specs regarding that part of the shock. Figured I could get started on making the rear mounts for the shocks.

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

No prob, I just opened a box out in the garage. :redneck:

 

[crash2]

No prob, I just opened a box out in the garage. :redneck:

lol--Nice one

 

[Sandtrap1986]

12's and 14's on it

 

[crash2]

So a question on the sleeve for the shock bushing that drops it to 1/2"--how long is it?

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

1.25" :awesomework:

 

[tomsbrokeagain]

Here are the driveshaft measurements Chris..

Front 42 1/8" Make sure its as thin as possible for clearance against the tranny pan.

Rear is 53 1/2"

This thing is "this" close to be ready for exhaust.

Ride height lengths?

How thin does he need on the front? Where does it need to be thin?