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Dodge 47RE builders

Turtle Bite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
352
Location
Ellensburg, WA
I am about due for a tranny in my 98' 12 valve. Fluid looks and smells SMOKED and I have a 100 fuel plate that isnt stock trans friendly. I have been looking at my options, and I have already decided on most parts of the build but I know some on this board have had it done. Need to decide on whether I need a billet input mainly. I already have a double deep pan and temp gauge. I dont plan on doing more to the truck power wise, other than a set of governor springs. I tow an enormous 24' 12K lb enclosed trailer, my biggest concern is for the towing longevity. That and the stock converter stall drives me crazy. Dont tell me to swap in a 5/6 speed, not in the cards.

Planning on DTT or a local builder with DTT or suncoast parts
Full rebuild
Triple disc convertor with a lower stall
Stock intermediate and output shafts
R&R in my driveway

I am on the fence about the billet input, I probably dont need one at my power level and I am told the Sonnax inputs are only a minor upgrade from stock?

Heard conflicting opinions on the upgraded flexplate, do I need it for 350hp (max)?
 
when i first did mine i decided against the billet one piece input and that was a bad idea as it striped the splines going into the hub and had to go back through it. its expensive but id do right the first time. i believe im around 400hp 800ft lb just estimating. thankfully i did all mine myself so cost was down on the rest of it.
 
At 350 hp, I honestly don't think you need either of them. I'd get a laminated flex plate before the shaft anyways for the power, but still don't think it's needed.

Sonnax and Intelligent engineering are good shafts if for some reason you choose to go that route.
 
when i first did mine i decided against the billet one piece input and that was a bad idea as it striped the splines going into the hub and had to go back through it. its expensive but id do right the first time. i believe im around 400hp 800ft lb just estimating. thankfully i did all mine myself so cost was down on the rest of it.

What were you doing when the input stripped? I have consider doing it myself

At 350 hp, I honestly don't think you need either of them. I'd get a laminated flex plate before the shaft anyways for the power, but still don't think it's needed.

Sonnax and Intelligent engineering are good shafts if for some reason you choose to go that route.

Thats what I keep hearing, but in my head I keep imagining laying on the throttle with the loaded trailer, hitting some gravel, and BANG. I thought the input usually goes before flexplate?
 
whoever you decide to do the rebuild or if you end up doing it yourself please make sure to post it up. I know this upgrade will be in my future one day... about how many miles do you have on the stocker trans with the mods you have?
 
go to THEDIESELGARAGE.COM they have a tun of info on transmission work. and if you can read a manual you can do the work yourself. auto's are super easy to do.
 
there are some tools reguired for holding pressure on the clutch packs to put the snap rings in that could make it a bitch do if you dont have. also recommend an aftermarket valve body like a bd or what have you. they hold more line pressure at low throttle pressure then the stock one and that is what hurts alot of these trannies behind a motor with any mods at all, more power equal less throttle pressure. be sure and adjust your throttle pressure cable to get it right, it will take a fair amount of tests drives to get the feeling you want.
 
one more thing, when pulling the crossmember for the trans out be sure and have a porta power or bottle jack and short 4X4 to spread the frame a bit or you will hate life pulling it out.
 
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Don't get anything BD

Suncoast
DTT
Dunrite (source automotive) are good ones to go with

I've never used anything to spread the frame. But it'd make life easier if you had something laying around.
 
Don't get anything BD

Suncoast
DTT
Dunrite (source automotive) are good ones to go with

I've never used anything to spread the frame. But it'd make life easier if you had something laying around.

never had any problems using bd products in my first hand experience, not what ive read on forums, but bad parts can leave a sour taste in your mouth for sure. im sure i'll think twice now but then again...

Crash i dont believe you'd have any problem building one of these trannys with your mechanical background, as there isnt much to them. i believe i pulled mine after hours rebuilt and installed in like 6 or 7 hours without much tranmission rebuild experience.

the best thing to do imo is fine a good quality rebuild kit, replace the input shaft, if your hard on it at all, good valve body and billet converter, i use one from oer out of poulsbo i believe, and fill it with a good qauility synthetic fluid, like amsoil to keep the heat down. Just be sure to get that throttle cable adjusted right or it will shift shitty, slow or quick or slide between gears or bang, and **** on you quick. its an easy adjustment near the app under the hood just takes driving and adjusting and repeat until your happy.

i wouldnt recommend doing yourself unless your confident in what your doing though. these are all expensive parts that would suck to have to buy and do twice. alot of times r&r'ing the tranny and having a shop do it isnt much more expensive as there isnt a ton of labor in building one of these.
 
never had any problems using bd products in my first hand experience, not what ive read on forums, but bad parts can leave a sour taste in your mouth for sure. im sure i'll think twice now but then again...
.

The local shops have had nothing but problems with the BD's. Transmissions actually built by BD, not just parts used. Every time I go visit they are tearing out another one :haha:
 
I have a local builder upgrade all the transmissions we install behind diesel rigs, and I have a dozen or so customers out there with zero issues, and lots more if counting Fords too. Upgraded internals, valve body, shift improver kit, triple disk billet lid converters, etc. More reasonably priced than the big names, and 3yr 100k warranty, with coverage nation-wide. Available for Ford and GM stuff too. Let me know if you're interested in a price, either just the trans. or the whole job installed.

John
 
I have a local builder upgrade all the transmissions we install behind diesel rigs, and I have a dozen or so customers out there with zero issues, and lots more if counting Fords too. Upgraded internals, valve body, shift improver kit, triple disk billet lid converters, etc. More reasonably priced than the big names, and 3yr 100k warranty, with coverage nation-wide. Available for Ford and GM stuff too. Let me know if you're interested in a price, either just the trans. or the whole job installed.

John

Are they in Auburn? Mike's been telling me about a guy he goes through for autos now, it's quite a bit cheaper, and they haven't had any issues. I keep forgetting to ask for the name though. :booo:
 
one more thing, when pulling the crossmember for the trans out be sure and have a porta power or bottle jack and short 4X4 to spread the frame a bit or you will hate life pulling it out.

It'll come out easily enough without spreading the frame...just gotta jack the trans up abit to allow for wiggle room...:;
 
whoever you decide to do the rebuild or if you end up doing it yourself please make sure to post it up. I know this upgrade will be in my future one day... about how many miles do you have on the stocker trans with the mods you have?

I am not rebuilding it myself as I only have a tiny one car garage to do it in and the special tools are not worth it for me. The labor is $800 (that doesnt include R&R) but it comes with a warranty.

I have only about 6K miles since I put the plate in, right around 117K total. I could probably put the stock plate in, flush the tranny and run it for 50K more miles, but I started modding knowing the tranny would need to be built. I just cant live with the high stall stock converter though, it drives me nuts.
 
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I have a local builder upgrade all the transmissions we install behind diesel rigs, and I have a dozen or so customers out there with zero issues, and lots more if counting Fords too. Upgraded internals, valve body, shift improver kit, triple disk billet lid converters, etc. More reasonably priced than the big names, and 3yr 100k warranty, with coverage nation-wide. Available for Ford and GM stuff too. Let me know if you're interested in a price, either just the trans. or the whole job installed.

John

If you get a chance please PM me a price just for the transmission. I make frequent trip to the wet side and my brother works for a frieght company so shipping is not a hassle for me.

For anybody thats curious, Im looking at about $2300 for the build- $250 is new electronics/ solenoids which I am told I wont need if they rebuild my core (instead of exchange for a core). This does not include the torque converter, which is ~$600 for a single or $1200 for a triple. The billet
input is a $750 option.

There is a local shop that a few friends have had trannies built, but they are within ~$250 of DTT.

The fuel plate and boost elbow was $40 on ebay, and the tranny will be $3500. At least I was warned.
 
No need to PM, I'll just post it here. $3,350 plus tax. Includes triple disk billet lid converter and the other upgrades. Billet shafts could be added for similar pricing to what you're being quoted. 3yr, 100k mile warranty. I've done lots of these for my customers with zero issues. I'm getting ready to have them do upgrades in my Allison also.

John
 
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