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Enclosed trailer questions/opinions

Im wanting to retain the front 10 foot of the enclosed part and use the skin I remove to close it back up. The front is already set up with a bed and ac. So it would be 10 foot of enclosed with a 20 foot open deck. Not sure if I could sell it and buy something to work the same and stay within a reasonable budget.
 
Any of you guys that have the enclosed trailers have any updates on your trailers? Anything you wish you could change on your trailer? I'm about ready to go to an enclosed.
 
I just bought a 24 foot enclosed about a month ago. I wired lights ac unit on top an plugins and run it off a generator. I love everything about it beats the hell out of tent camping I've already took it out 4 times. Makes life a lot easier when getting ready to go I keep it stocked with canned food/drinks an everything I need to wheel just hook up an go.

Also some advice get really good tires for it my buggy weighs 4260 plus all the crap I got in the trailer is really hard on the single tires.
 
jta said:
Any of you guys that have the enclosed trailers have any updates on your trailers? Anything you wish you could change on your trailer? I'm about ready to go to an enclosed.
If you plan on camping in the trailer I would suggest to try to get it insulated in the walls. You can do the roof yourself without any disassembly of the inside trim. I have since insulated my roof but my walls are not. I can feel the walls inside and can tell where the sun is without going outside.
Other than that it is great, makes wheeling and camping with the family tons better.
 
Get 16 inch rims and put 215 load range e truck tires on it. We run Firestone transforce on all of ours. thumb.gif
 
Good info but I was looking more for the useable features you'd like to have for camping and transporting your rig. What are you guys using to cover the floors? Tie down points you like or don't like? Things that make using it easier or more comfortable.
 
Wondering about floors myself. I am packing mine for a trip this weekend. Ill take a few pics of what is working for me.
 
jta said:
Good info but I was looking more for the useable features you'd like to have for camping and transporting your rig. What are you guys using to cover the floors? Tie down points you like or don't like? Things that make using it easier or more comfortable.

I had a 28' enclosed trailer that I hauled my rig around in for a couple years. We camped in it every time in temperatures as cold as 15 degrees up to 100.

I had mine built with a wall separating the cargo area from the round nose. I put an extra door on the round nose and mounted a vertical tank compressor up there to have air anytime.

Like already mentioned tires are a PITA and I finally ended up with Load Range G 14 ply tires on and no issues once that was done (had dual 7k axles).

What is the overall width of your rig? My TJ was 91" and when I was talking with several enclosed trailer manufacturers, 87" was normal and you could pay extra to get 89" so I ended up with a normal width door and had to swap to rollers every time.. Wasn't bad but I won't do it again...ever....

The interior height of my trailer was 8'6" and it was perfect IMO. I had a 13.5k btu A/C with heat pump and it would do good on a black trailer even in 100 degree heat but the heat pump sucked even with the walls and roof insulated. When it was 15 degrees one night we had 2 1500 watt electric heaters running and that was keeping it bearable until we started tripping the 30 amp breaker at the campground. The trailer was wired for 50 amp with receptacles all over inside and out.

I recommend getting the biggest awning you can on the side with your entry door. I had a 22' and it made a nice area to sit and work on rigs in the rain. I also had 2 - 500 watt halogens recessed into the exterior wall under the awning for working on rigs all night.

One thing I overlooked is the fact that most trailer manufactures position the center of the axles roughly 60% of the deck length back from front of the deck. In my case I should have had them position the axles closer to 55%. I had a full size toolbox with close to 2,000 lbs of tools in it plus a work bench and overhead cabinets full of spare parts, fluids, camping gear. Long story short I ended up with way to much tongue weight.

I had the rubber coin floor and had no issues with it at all.

Here is a link with pictures of my trailer I sold http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=39855.0
 
What I'm looking at is s 36' gooseneck with 24" extra height, 3 6k torsion axles, 15000 btu ac and insulated walls plus roof.
 
RustyC said:
Heavy duty rear ramp. Seen some rear ramp/doors with a bend in them.

Good point. The ramp on my trailer seems to be just heavy duty enough to get by. They also put a 18" fold out flap on the end of my door for low clearance vehicles and I broke that off first time I pulled onto it so pass on that. If it's standard equipment then ask them to not install it and might save a few bucks.
 
2504-recessed-pan-fitting-trailer-tie-down-fittings-anchor-ring_1_375.jpg



Like that?

Anybody got these?

2761-rotating-pan-fitting-6-000-lbs_1_375.jpg
 
I use the bottom version. I think it's better suited for pulling in all directions. My tie down locations are totally different if there is 1 buggy or 2 in the trailer. I don't like the way the top version looks of pulled against the hinge.


2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!
 
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