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Some more driveshaft advice..

Boonie Buster

Stuck on a Curb
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Mar 27, 2006
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So, I am having a hard time wrapping my head around what I want to do with my driveshafts. I really want/need to fix my e-brake setup on my rear 9" but I am thinking about going with the t-case e-brake from the High angle driveline guys and then I can get rear discs worry free! But you have to run a flange with the t-case e-brake, So, is there a 1310 flange setup that can be ran on the back of the 32 spl. np205? I was told that they only make a 1310 flange for the B2 and that it is garbage. I'd like to run a CV joint at the t-case on the from and rear shaft, and I also want to run the same style u-joint all around (1310)... Any MORE suggestions.... I am totally lost right now on what i should do:mad: :booo:
 
get a 32 spline flanged yoke. then drill it out to accept a toyota shaft, then get a flange for the front and rear axles also. go toyota and forgot all about issues:beer:

wait, that too cheap and easy. I got a sweet one ton ford front CV shaft for cheap, all you need is some of those sweet yokes you sent back cuz they suck.
:cool:
 
get a 32 spline flanged yoke. then drill it out to accept a toyota shaft, then get a flange for the front and rear axles also. go toyota and forgot all about issues:beer:

wait, that too cheap and easy. I got a sweet one ton ford front CV shaft for cheap, all you need is some of those sweet yokes you sent back cuz they suck.
:cool:

I know those yokes were badass and all:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:

what size u-joint do toyotas use? isn't it smaller than 1310??
 
I know those yokes were badass and all:fawkdancesmiley: :haha:

what size u-joint do toyotas use? isn't it smaller than 1310??

it doesnt make sense, they are small. but they are strong if kept in grease.

I sometimes wonder if any of thier strenght comes from being small. if a joint is big across the cross but not large capped, it isnt as strong as one that is same sized capped, but shorter across the cross.
more leverage on a longer arm.

my friend with a S10 is so anti toyota, we told him a thousand times to run toy shafts, he finnaly gave in when TG made the long spline toy shaft. he claims its not a toyota part, but a TG part so its OK.:haha: :haha:

hasnt had issues since, and he has a bit of angle too. he got his flanges at tom woods for the axles.

on a 205, I needed a rear flange to upgrade to rockwell shafts. I found one around the shop in a bucket full of yokes, it was 32 spline, but needed a smaller seal. took the old seal and yoke to yelm national and got the right seal. then I drilled out a plate for the rockwell pattern and the chevy pattern and presto. all shafto.

flanges are the best. IMO. I ahve run chevs for years, and always had to tighten the front CV bolts, and kill u joint staps/ubolts all the time. never happens on my toyota. I have never touched the rockwell flanges.

splitting a yoke right where you need the most strenght is a stupid Idea.

flanges are the ****. you can even remove you shaft and the caps dont fall in the dirt.:awesomework:
 
alot of dodges had some flagee 205 yokes and some chevs too. talk to corey/crazydays, he is pretty sharp on 205s and yokes.:cheer:
 
alot of dodges had some flagee 205 yokes and some chevs too. talk to corey/crazydays, he is pretty sharp on 205s and yokes.:cheer:


will do. Ya, I'm not anti-toyota (although I may come across that way:fawkdancesmiley: :redneck: ) I just want to make certain that the t-case e-brake can be used with the yota flange now....:eeek: I think i'm gonna go with the yota stuff.... Wonder if they make a yota flange for the ford 9"...?
 
there are a couple of e brake kits for toyotas available. probaly have to make custom case mounts, but the shaft pattern will be fine.
 
there are a couple of e brake kits for toyotas available. probaly have to make custom case mounts, but the shaft pattern will be fine.

ya, I have seen those... I should specify... This is going on an S-10, with a np203/np205 and dana 44 and ford 9". :awesomework: So I gotta git's me a way to put flanges on everything if I go toyota. I THINK I found a 1310 flange for the ford 9" and i think I found a flange for the dana 44 to toy flange on high angle drivelines website.... and you said tom woods would have the np205 flanges I need? I have found two places that do the np205 e-brake, (Tom woods and high angle) both look pretty simple to do, I just can't find what flanges will work for the rotor. And I can't find the caliper they used....:eeek:
 
the flanges for the case are OEM peices. you will need to look at 203s and 205s fro the flanges, like I said ask corey what the flanged cases come in. then you can either make a puck adapter, like what the sami guys use for toy to sami shafts. a puck with 8 holes, 4 toyota 4 gm/mopar pattern, for yours. or have the flanges machined down and drilled for the toyota shaft pattern.

as for axles, yes just buy an aftermarket flange for the 44. I dont know about the 9 inch, sorry:beer:
 
the flanges for the case are OEM peices. you will need to look at 203s and 205s fro the flanges, like I said ask corey what the flanged cases come in. then you can either make a puck adapter, like what the sami guys use for toy to sami shafts. a puck with 8 holes, 4 toyota 4 gm/mopar pattern, for yours. or have the flanges machined down and drilled for the toyota shaft pattern.

as for axles, yes just buy an aftermarket flange for the 44. I dont know about the 9 inch, sorry:beer:


So I guess now my next question would be should I run singles u-joint at each end? I have been going back and forth on this, and i went and measured some angles and the yotas seem to have really good angles, like i think they'll be adequite for my setup, although I am just concerned about vibrations at higher speeds, Although my buddy has singles on some funky angles on his front shaft and is ok till like 50mph or something... I will have a really good angle for it in the rear, but the front off the t-case is gonna be around 20*-25* working angle...and the bottom about 10* (i think, haven;t really checked...) So I am wondering if I should run a CV up front or not...
 
just run singles. look at the toyota yokes, they have two lengths. one is capable of a high angle and one is not.

if you can match up the rear angles, I think you will be happy. as for the front, big deal most folks dont use the hubs at 50+mph anyways. if you do, just pretend you dont notice the vibe. its cheaper and stronger that way.

spending more money on something weaker, just for comfort, well thats what jeepers are for!:haha:
 
There's solid advice right there :awesomework:

sounded like the guys on a tighter budget than you. there is always the rightway, a better way, the jeep way, then there the I can afford to go wheeling now way.

by the way, where your solid advice? for under $300?:beer:
 
sounded like the guys on a tighter budget than you. there is always the rightway, a better way, the jeep way, then there the I can afford to go wheeling now way.

by the way, where your solid advice? for under $300?:beer:

I'm not on a tight budget, just seeing if it's possible... the money has already been spent.:redneck: :booo:
 
sounded like the guys on a tighter budget than you. there is always the rightway, a better way, the jeep way, then there the I can afford to go wheeling now way.

by the way, where your solid advice? for under $300?:beer:


I'd be the guy towing his ass outa Reiter with a FUBAR driveshaft cause he took the booty fab advice from someone on the internet :rolleyes:

There's the right way...or this is no way :awesomework:
 
I'd be the guy towing his ass outa Reiter with a FUBAR driveshaft cause he took the booty fab advice from someone on the internet :rolleyes:

There's the right way...or this is no way :awesomework:

What is the right way then?

Ya, I think "dealing" with a vibration is not what I'm after. I am too picky about stuff like that. I will tear apart the dash in my car to chase down a loose bolt to make sure i don't hear it rattling around, let alone a driveline:looser: The front angle yes, i might not be able to avoid an ideal angle but the rear should be fine, I won't be running the front shaft at 50mph persay, but if i had the hubs lock in and the t-case in neutral i'd want it not to jar my teeth out. plus for high speed snow wheeling:cheer:
 
did you cut and turn the knuckles? if not you dont need a cv up front or it (cv) will cause a vibe. match the angle from the case to the front axle, or set it for drivablity.

the rear can be turned straight up to the case if you like, but you will need a CV. if it is set at the same angle as the case you dont.

and jobless FU. how is he going to need to be towed out? a strong shaft that has a vibe at over 45 is not going to twist in half. a toyota shaft with no grease and a bend is still going to out last a brand new SPICER style shaft.:looser:
 
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