ChevyGuy
Well-Known Member
Crash this rig is just an awsome rig, you have done a great job! I love the wheels
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
The swa-wing
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Thanks man--there has been allot of R&D time into this thing to get it where it is.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So I went and redesigned my servo mount. I also dropped the servo down a tad.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
For those who have done the bearing upgrade on the knuckles I have changed mine up a bit. One thing I had found after a while the 4mm screw would start to loosen and that could lead to pulling the threads out of that. Well my buddy Marc gave me a great idea and did it to diamond D's rig. The key is to build a spacer that goes between the bearing and the axle tube so you can fully tighten the 4mm screw.
All I did was take some 1/4" thick wall alum. tubing and drilled it out to 4mm. I found the key thickness is between 2.05mm-2.12mm. I thought the origional mod was nice but adding this made it even better and far stronger.
All I did was take some 1/4" thick wall alum. tubing and drilled it out to 4mm. I found the key thickness is between 2.05mm-2.12mm. I thought the origional mod was nice but adding this made it even better and far stronger.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So for a while now I have been running Dr. franks style of steering and it worked pretty good. Was high clearance and protected the servo/servo horn. The down side was the weight and it has just gotten sloppy even with bearing at the rotation area of it--holes have gotten hogged out.
So I tossed that idea and after a number of templates I finally nailed it. Its got good clearance, light, give protection to the servo horn and works perfect.
A bunch of us die hards got together today at the hot spot and I was VERY happy with the steering..
So I tossed that idea and after a number of templates I finally nailed it. Its got good clearance, light, give protection to the servo horn and works perfect.
A bunch of us die hards got together today at the hot spot and I was VERY happy with the steering..
ChevyGuy
Well-Known Member
Looks alot nicer! Again great work!
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Ok its been a while since I have really been able to do much of anything due to my dads car.
But in any case I have been going to comps but not able to have some "me time" to tweek the rig like I have been wanting.
For the record the steering setup has been flawless and very happy with it.
So one thing I did that I decided to change back to was the battery above the front lower links. I felt and noticed with the weight where it was it was and my driving style it didn't sidehill as good. So I chose to make a new battery tray on the rear axle and put the battery back there.
But in any case I have been going to comps but not able to have some "me time" to tweek the rig like I have been wanting.
For the record the steering setup has been flawless and very happy with it.
So one thing I did that I decided to change back to was the battery above the front lower links. I felt and noticed with the weight where it was it was and my driving style it didn't sidehill as good. So I chose to make a new battery tray on the rear axle and put the battery back there.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So one thing I have been contiplating was cutting the gear case and not so much to remove weight but simply give some clearance for the upper links. Well it was pretty simple and it did exactly what I wanted perfectly. I am going to do the front case also when I get time. I also just used electrical tape over the hole (scotch 33).
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So another issue I was fighting and just didn't have time to tackle was the rear upper links. The problem I had was the fact of how tight things were. With cutting the gear case added a TON of help in correcting the problem and now I was able to do a single bend link. Now I can get all the flex I wanted --it worked perfectly.
I also redid the front upper links. They were binding against the chassis on compression. So I basicly copied the rears and again they are right on the money.
I also redid the front upper links. They were binding against the chassis on compression. So I basicly copied the rears and again they are right on the money.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I also revamped the electronics. I moved the ESC back and sunk the reciever into the chassis.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
A while back I got a set of BigBore 3.5" shocks to replace the HPI 4 3/8" shocks I was running. I also got some gold springs. So I threw them on and they were an improvement over the HPI's mainly due to the length and the softer springs.
So now its time to start tweeking thhem because they still seem too stiff. So I went and pulled them apart and put the 3 hole valves in them and 40w shock oil.
Something else I did was lower the belly to 3" from like 3 3/8". I also revamped the upper mount location and decided to mount them to the body. I am going to revamp my body panels to give some more support for the shock area. But I went and ran it and its a big improvement. I also need to get some lighter shock oil because I think its still a tad too stiff and will try going with 20w shock oil to see how that reacts.
So time for some testing..
So now its time to start tweeking thhem because they still seem too stiff. So I went and pulled them apart and put the 3 hole valves in them and 40w shock oil.
Something else I did was lower the belly to 3" from like 3 3/8". I also revamped the upper mount location and decided to mount them to the body. I am going to revamp my body panels to give some more support for the shock area. But I went and ran it and its a big improvement. I also need to get some lighter shock oil because I think its still a tad too stiff and will try going with 20w shock oil to see how that reacts.
So time for some testing..
super samurai
Well-Known Member
I run gold springs out back on big bores and run associated blue ones on the front that rest on bore exit. Seems to work good. Jeremy has silvers out back and a vendetta yellow lile mine up front.
Roccrawler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2006
- Messages
- 6,325
look's good mike. You gave me a few ideas i have'nt thought of :awesomework:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I am working the plans on my last design--lots of R&D into this prodject..
hlb3
Zombie Hunter
That thing is awesome Mike. I miss tinkering with my RC, I wish I had the time and money to get more into the RC stuff again, I don't know when the last time I messed with the crawler was.:booo:
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
So since I changed my shock setup to one thats "better" I decided to redesign my chassis and body.
Here is the new chassis. As you can see its allot shorter and chnaged a bit for new mounting to the new body.
I got the new chassis installed and electronics put back in.
Here is the new chassis. As you can see its allot shorter and chnaged a bit for new mounting to the new body.
I got the new chassis installed and electronics put back in.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Here is the new body. Its not toaly redone but changed here and there. Some changes are suttle (slope nose and rear) with more material for shock mounting. I also went to 8 mounting points to the chassis for those long hard falls I seem to take allot..
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
And here it is all done and ready for the comp tommorow.
super samurai
Well-Known Member
another trick with those big bores is to cut the mount off, the top one which is the one you have on the axle end, and drill a hole in the end of the shock and thread in a new end. put a screw through the inside of the shock and into a rod end. this gets it away from the gear box, and then i use a spacer on the axle end to move the shock out to compensate for the height of the rod end, so no hitting gear box or using those o rings on the mounting bolt.
