Trailer Lengthening

anyone on here ever modified your trailer to make it longer? I've got a standard 16' bumper-pull car-hauler trailer that I want to extend to 20' so I can fit 2 utv's on it so me and my Dad can pull our rigs together and save fuel. I need to replace the wood decking on it so I was thinking while it was off to cut the frame between the tongue and the wheels and butt welding a 4' section of matching C-channel in. Then making some plates to cover the splice on the outside and then on the inside welding in about 6' of rectangular tube that fits inside the channel. Figured I might re-deck with some 1/4' expanded steel instead of wood and add a few crossbraces where needed.

I guess my real question is if it will still pull ok, will the weight distribution, tongue weight etc will be ok after this?

You might experience some wobbly ass if you extend it to far and I'd hate for it to break on the road while loaded.

LightBnDr extended a trailer to fit a pop on it last year. He might be able to tell u how he did his.

You'll probably need to move the axles back or it will be all over the road.

poolman said:

You'll probably need to move the axles back or it will be all over the road.

Click to expand...

Even if the 4' extension is in between the tongue and axles? Keep in mind i will only be towing two.1500 lb. utv's with this...

Some replies didn't read apparently??? I've extended a small trailer 8' to 10' just added 2' of the same size angle to the frame and re-decked it extended wires and added a toung brace. Haven't had any problems at all other than it does have a good bit more toung weight than a normal 10x5 because the axle is a little far back. I think if you are a competent welder, scab plate your joints, and don't over load it because of the extra length you will be fine!

Re:

How much tongue length do you have to work with now?

Can you extend the deck 2' in the front and add a 2' dove tail or extension to the rear?

Do you really need a full 4' to haul 2 sxs?

Might be easier than cutting the trailer in half.


Also, does it have a full tongue frame that runs back to the axles? Or is the deck the main frame?

Re:

Good questions about tomgue length, i'll get some measurements in the morning. It does have a full tongue frame and it already has a dovetail. The utv's we have are about 10' long so yeah it def needs a 4' extension. I thought about making two 2' extensions but really don't want to make two splices. I'm not worried about welding, my welds were the only thing i never broke on my rock crawler :****:

TBItoy said:

How much tongue length do you have to work with now?

Can you extend the deck 2' in the front and add a 2' dove tail or extension to the rear?

Do you really need a full 4' to haul 2 sxs?

Might be easier than cutting the trailer in half.


Also, does it have a full tongue frame that runs back to the axles? Or is the deck the main frame?

Click to expand...

I agree if there is 2' of usable room on the front use that and add the other two behind the axle!

Most trailers won't have 2' of extra room due to needing it for when you turn.

My call would be cut dove tail off and add 4' and move axle back. Reattach dove and rock out. If your tongue goes all the way to back of trailer and is doubled to the dove. Cut the trailer a little shorter and stagger your splices. This will add all the strength you need along with plates on splices.
Fish plate the inside of the frame and load the wagon.

Hell you boys put to much thought in this ****! This all you got to do.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Instead of cutting trailer add some detachable ramp platforms load first one an add ramp then load next one like there humping going down road :****:

wont work said:

Most trailers won't have 2' of extra room due to needing it for when you turn.

My call would be cut dove tail off and add 4' and move axle back. Reattach dove and rock out.

Click to expand...

Your losing me on this, wouldn't that net the same result as putting the extension in front of the axles?

Yes I own a 16' trailer that I added a 4' deck to the front. Identical to what you speak of. I built my 4' deck out of 3" square 3/16" tubing. I just copied my existing frame design but extended forward 4'. I didn't like a regular 2-5/16 bull dog hitch so I use a pintle style hitch. AKA hook and Lunette ring. AKA military style hitch.

Then I ran a piece of 1/4" thick 4x3" angle iron from the leaf spring mount all the way to the front of my new platform. About 8.5ft. On both sides. This gave me deck rigidity and a way to link my new deck to the existing frame other than butt welds.

I built the wood portion of my deck out of 2x12 treated lumber. Bolted them to the new frame using stainless self tappers.

I have zero complaints. It tows and handles like a champ. Will run 85+ zero worries.

I mounted a pop up on the 4' deck so that's roughly 850lb tongue weight. Then my rig rides on my tandem axles.

Shake n bake

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1049614-converting-2-car-bumper-uhaul-box-gooseneck.html

Jimmy did this

I thought it went without saying that by adding 4' of deck space to the front meant removing the tongue and extending the deck space then reattaching the tongue at the same distance from the deck as it was before

Unless they are 4 seaters, widen the trailer and load them sideways.

I lengthened my 24 foot gooseneck with dovetail to a 30 foot without a dovetail. I read and read a lot about it. There are a couple of decent threads on pirate. There is a ratio that you want to follow in terms of where the axles sit. I have seen 60\40,70\30 and 80\20. I believe I did the 70\30. Also, there is some engineering to consider on the reinforcement plates as well. I found that the plates should basically extend about 3 times in length than the heigth of the rail. For example my plates were 42 inches long in length for my rails which were 10 inch i beam. When researching reinforcement plates I found a lot of discussion on the shape of the plates. I made mine with a "fishmouth" on both ends. Further, I cut three holes 1 3/4 in diameter into the plate ,centerline. Both techniques create more surface area for welding plate to the rail and the fishmouth reduces stress risers as a result of rounded edges is what I came across. My plates were the just under 10 inches as for the heigth to squeeze just inside the i beam channel. If you choose making plates shaped that look like a diamond, it actually creates stress risers at the "points".There is even a specific type of bead you can run away from the point to move the stress riser away from the point. But, round edges seem to be what is suggested. Another option is to "z" section the rail to create a stack affect.
I cut my dove tail off and butt welded on a 9 1\2 foot section where the dovetail was butt welded,. I then relocated the axles and the splice is almost dead center between the axles. I did the long fishmouth plates inside and outside on the rails as i descried above.. I added equally long plates on top and bottom of the rails. Overall I found there are not a lot of great sources on this subject and that looking at engineering behind heavy equipment repairs yielded a lot of valuable principles.I would be glad to send you pics of before, after and the plates if you like. Mine hauls fine and i have hauled well over 10,000 lbs on my trailer. If you are good welder, have sound fabrication skills, do your homework, and take your time you can do it. If not find someone to do it for you from a safety standpoint for not only you, but, other people on the road.

Found the one of the threads for you:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/612992-stretching-trailer.html

I've often considered adding 4 foot to my 24' gooseneck to make it 28' so I can get 2 rigs on it. I'm unsure about the integrity afterward though.