Matt's Cheerleader Jeep buildup thread...

NotMatt · Jun 21, 2006

Toyotanut said:
who's steering arms are you using?

MAD4WD

(extra characters blah blah)

yjkrawlin · Jun 22, 2006

NotMatt said:
Well... I REALLY don't want it to be any taller than it is right now... so I'm not keen on adding more leafs to the packs YET... there's not going to be much up-travel as it is because the stock YJ leafs run pretty flat at ride height.

I do realize I will probably destroy these stock springs in fairly short order... though I'm hoping that the anti-wrap bar I'm going to be building for the rear, and my conservative driving style will help me. Just have to be careful not to hit those front shackles on stuff and bend the front main leaf.

How much inversion on the leafs is ok when "stuffed"? Obviously it's not good for them to be inverted, where should I stop at when I measure for bumpstops?

an extra main leaf would'nt make it that much taller, use one from another yj pack(ive got some by the way), as far as the bump stops ive seen people (using yj packs) run them so there is only a couple of inches up up travel, id run them so theres at least 3 or 4 inches, but it all depends on the set up, they are all differant. with a flat spring it be inverted isnt too bad (to a point). i'd see how it sits first and start cycling the springs to see where you need the bumps, and how bad the springs are gonna tweek, then go from there. ive got xj springs in my yj, with extra mains, it will help. you just dont want to brake your main leaf out on the trail with out a spare.

Comet · Jun 23, 2006

Who's white uni swb is this? Your dad's is red, right?

NotMatt · Jun 23, 2006

Comet said:
Who's white uni swb is this? Your dad's is red, right?

That's his too... it's actually the original one he bought back in the early 90's. It's a '61 F-100 and was originally 2wd... he converted it to 4wd with parts from a '6-something 4wd he got for free. 292 Y-block (of course, he's obsessed with y-blocks.

) and a fresh coat of paint... basically 90% restored.

BTW, he's putting a Y-block in that model-A he's building too... :redneck:

MarcW · Jun 23, 2006

hmm, used to roll in a 57 ford with a 312 y block

NotMatt · Jun 25, 2006

Well, I got the front u-bolts on and the knuckles on and measured for my tie-rod and drag link yesterday. Going to cut the pieces of tooob for those today and take them down to my new buddy at the driveline shop tomorrow and have him throw them on the lathe and make the ID a bit bigger for my tube ends, then he's going to tig-weld them in for me.

The other project on my plate today is to get the front housing back out and set up the gears in it, then throw a coat of paint on.

It's getting closer. U-bolts for the rear are on order for tuesday, then after that all that's left before it's "on the road" is the tranny/t-case removal, SYE install, and re-installation, and have my rear driveline shortened a bit. Still need to order some bushings and a heim joint and figure out how to build the anti-wrap bar before I'll be able to wheel it...

Pics tonight.

NotMatt · Jun 25, 2006

Here's some pics from yesterday and today. Nothing real intense, just had the camera and thought I'd use it.

1st one is an artsy one by muah... titled "Crappy Beer and Crossbones".

2nd one is of the pass. side knuckle ready to go on the axle. New steering studs, new knuckle studs, new ball joints. Yum.

3rd is the pass. knuckle installed and TRE's on, I measured for my drag link and tie-rod right after this.

4th is a picture of how the tube ends are going to fit in the tube. The tube adapters are from PartsMike... "7/8-18 tube adapter for 1" ID tube". The problem is, 7/8" shank on the TRE is pretty big for a tube adapter for 1" ID tube... so what they do is put those little nubbins on the end that you're supposed to stick in the tube and weld instead of actually having the meat of the adapter inside the tube. Seemed a little cheesy to me, it was kind of a product of my desire to use 1.5" .250 wall tube for the steering links. The solution? I'm going to have the ID of the end of the tube turned out a bit until it's 1.25", so that the tube adapter fits right up to the machined line in the pic, then have them tig welded in around the outside plus 4 rosette/plug welds in each end. They aren't going to come out.

Paulie · Jun 26, 2006

you make the shock brackets on the housing

NotMatt · Jun 26, 2006

Paulie said:
you make the shock brackets on the housing

Yeah.... they're pretty ugly, I might end up re-doing them later on, but I haven't decided yet.

MarcW · Jun 27, 2006

hmm, looking like were scooting along quite nicely. i just got my project... soon to come matt. :kissmyass:

Cascade_Crawler · Jun 28, 2006

So Matt have you thought about hydro assist?

NotMatt · Jun 28, 2006

XJonathan said:
So Matt have you thought about hydro assist?

Once my savings account recovers after all this work. I just want to get it moving right now so I can drive down to the mall and impress all the lady folk with my curb wheeling skills. Then I'll worry about actually making it wheel. :redneck:

NotMatt · Jun 28, 2006

My tie-rod and drag link are done... details at 7:00.

Mmmm... beef.

CrustyJeep · Jun 28, 2006

NotMatt said:
4th is a picture of how the tube ends are going to fit in the tube. The tube adapters are from PartsMike...

I have a pair of those on my anti-wrap bar, with 3/4-16 theads. I wasn't too impressed either. WAY too elaborate for what they do.

CrustyJeep · Jun 28, 2006

NotMatt said:
How much inversion on the leafs is ok when "stuffed"? Obviously it's not good for them to be inverted, where should I stop at when I measure for bumpstops?

I don't subscribe to that at all. There is nothing magic about inversion... And the YJ packs seem to be able to invert quite a bit before taking a set. Mine did, right before I pissed on 'em and got real springs

I almost guarantee those YJ packs will be too soft though. If'n I was you, I would take those goofy shackles (how long are they anyway?) and toss them as far away as possible. Make some that actually fit, I would guess about 4.5" - 4.75" for those springs, and then add a leaf to get a little more arch from the springs. Hopefully you'll end up with similar ride height to what you have now.

Or just skip all the BS and find some 7-leaf waggies

They will probly even fit into those shackle hangers as they are and provide a much better shackle angle. Oh and you'll have to move your steering box... That's always fun

CrustyJeep · Jun 28, 2006

NotMatt said:
I need to measure again, but I have a couple sets of stock XJ springs... thought about seeing how those would work to stretch the wheelbase a bit and they might make the shackle angle a bit better too because I think they're longer.

MUCH longer. Way too long for stock shackle hangers. But look seriously into that. The waggies rock up front, but I don't think they flex enough for the rear due to the wider mounting. XJ's are on my things-to-do-when-the-mood-strikes-me list

yjkrawlin · Jun 28, 2006

CrustyJeep said:
I don't subscribe to that at all. There is nothing magic about inversion... And the YJ packs seem to be able to invert quite a bit before taking a set. Mine did, right before I pissed on 'em and got real springs

I almost guarantee those YJ packs will be too soft though. If'n I was you, I would take those goofy shackles (how long are they anyway?) and toss them as far away as possible. Make some that actually fit, I would guess about 4.5" - 4.75" for those springs, and then add a leaf to get a little more arch from the springs. Hopefully you'll end up with similar ride height to what you have now.

Or just skip all the BS and find some 7-leaf waggies They will probly even fit into those shackle hangers as they are and provide a much better shackle angle. Oh and you'll have to move your steering box... That's always fun

hey crusty, i might have missed something but why move the steering box???