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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
4.3 tbi problems
- Thread starter Gaylord
- Start date
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Crash wins the threadcrash said:
Say for the sake of argument a guy wants to carry one of every gizmo for a TBI motor the list would go something like this for NEW Napa parts.
MAP sensor $46.65
TPS sensor $35.86 (vehicle will get home on the MAP sensor alone TPS is not really needed)
O2 sensor $21.89 (again not needed to get home)
Coolant Temp Sender $10.02
Reman Distributor $132.05 +core
Coil $24.86
Fuel Injector $107.33
Fuel PSI regulator $35.07
Computer ECM $91.18 +core
Cores = $178
__________________
$682.91 + a fuel pump of what ever your using
It would all fit in a small tool box, Yes $700 is a lot to consider carrying for spare parts but there are bazillions of these parts sitting in the wrecking yards around here so its not like I have to spend that much to carry spares.
The 2 main reasons IM against carbs is 1 when they bounce they hesitate enough to matter and piss me off, the 2nd reason is my rig being an 1986 came with FI and if I want to keep plates and tags on it it needs to stay like that.
:;
MAP sensor $46.65
TPS sensor $35.86 (vehicle will get home on the MAP sensor alone TPS is not really needed)
O2 sensor $21.89 (again not needed to get home)
Coolant Temp Sender $10.02
Reman Distributor $132.05 +core
Coil $24.86
Fuel Injector $107.33
Fuel PSI regulator $35.07
Computer ECM $91.18 +core
Cores = $178
__________________
$682.91 + a fuel pump of what ever your using
It would all fit in a small tool box, Yes $700 is a lot to consider carrying for spare parts but there are bazillions of these parts sitting in the wrecking yards around here so its not like I have to spend that much to carry spares.
The 2 main reasons IM against carbs is 1 when they bounce they hesitate enough to matter and piss me off, the 2nd reason is my rig being an 1986 came with FI and if I want to keep plates and tags on it it needs to stay like that.
:;
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
wazz said:
HA HA HA- I have alot less into my box of goodies
(like 75$)
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Lamar said:
Short--haha ha. You have never been to the PNW have you
You can actually get many many miles into nowhere. I think once you hit a certain point it doesn't matter how far you are lol....
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
If you have to kill and eat one of your buddies to prevent starvation before reaching civilization, then no it doesn't how far out you arecrash said:Short--haha ha. You have never been to the PNW have you
But I dunno Mike......... Compared to Bolivia..........
Kevin,
Maybe the real question should be. When have I ever needed tools? See I fix my **** before I go wheeling, that allows me to have the most fun during a weekend possible. Aside from a faulty pitman arm I have yet to have any issues wich required me to put my beer down and turn a wrench.
As far as a broken coil, I happen to know that a properly cut chunk of wood and a ratchet strap will work just fine. Since I am normaly in the woods while Jeeping I have never considered taking a spare chunk of wood. :flipoff:
Maybe the real question should be. When have I ever needed tools? See I fix my **** before I go wheeling, that allows me to have the most fun during a weekend possible. Aside from a faulty pitman arm I have yet to have any issues wich required me to put my beer down and turn a wrench.
As far as a broken coil, I happen to know that a properly cut chunk of wood and a ratchet strap will work just fine. Since I am normaly in the woods while Jeeping I have never considered taking a spare chunk of wood. :flipoff:
Dear 03RUBICON;
There are 3 possible scenarios which you can pursue if you break a leafspring, although the weight bearing leaves are unimportant if they break in the field. The only important leaf that will need to serviced in the field is the main leaf. OK, these are the possibilities:
You can use full military wrapped springs which means that if you break the main leaf, you can ride home on the second leaf without having to initiate a field repair.
You can do as I do and bolt a spare main leaf somewhere underneath the chassis/body and if you break a main leaf, you unbolt the pack, separate th eleaves and replace the main leaf. This is not much fun to do and the mil wrapped leaves are better in this regard BUT mil wrapped leaves do hinder flex, so it's something to consider.
If you have an onboard welder, which I do have, you can carry a couple of sections of old, short leaf stock with you and if you break a mainleaf then you can weld a section of leaf stock to the broken area and limp home. I've done this a lot for other rigs and they've always made it back just fine, although slower than they would like and a bit rougher than before.
Your friend;
LAMAR
There are 3 possible scenarios which you can pursue if you break a leafspring, although the weight bearing leaves are unimportant if they break in the field. The only important leaf that will need to serviced in the field is the main leaf. OK, these are the possibilities:
You can use full military wrapped springs which means that if you break the main leaf, you can ride home on the second leaf without having to initiate a field repair.
You can do as I do and bolt a spare main leaf somewhere underneath the chassis/body and if you break a main leaf, you unbolt the pack, separate th eleaves and replace the main leaf. This is not much fun to do and the mil wrapped leaves are better in this regard BUT mil wrapped leaves do hinder flex, so it's something to consider.
If you have an onboard welder, which I do have, you can carry a couple of sections of old, short leaf stock with you and if you break a mainleaf then you can weld a section of leaf stock to the broken area and limp home. I've done this a lot for other rigs and they've always made it back just fine, although slower than they would like and a bit rougher than before.
Your friend;
LAMAR
Dear group;
I've worked in some very remote locations in the past, Alaska, northern Canada, Eastern Europe, northern, central and southern Africa, the Middle east, the orient and south america, and I can say that Bolivia is about the most remote work that I've ever been a part of, although the few times I was on the North Slope of Alaska, that was even more remote.
Your friend;
LAMAR
I've worked in some very remote locations in the past, Alaska, northern Canada, Eastern Europe, northern, central and southern Africa, the Middle east, the orient and south america, and I can say that Bolivia is about the most remote work that I've ever been a part of, although the few times I was on the North Slope of Alaska, that was even more remote.
Your friend;
LAMAR
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
03RUBICON said:
BS, I've seen plenty of guys that have carbed rigs that run just fine in situations like that. Just, not upside down.
Think of early drag racing, the forces involved were the same as getting vertical. :;
Dear KarlVP;
Relax, my wise friend, we can't win here because these people can't think outside of the box. The biggest problem facing the modern day builder is the ability to resolve a problem, using the simpliest means at one's disposal. Most 4X4 enthusists have been indocturnated by the aftermarket to believe that carburetors are inherently inferior to FI. If they didn't do this, then who would spend the major $$$ to swap from a carb to an FI?
Why do auto manufacturers use FI now instead of carburetors? First, because they can squeeze a bit cleaner exhaust out of an FI system that can be squeezed out with a carb, but that's not the real reason. The real reason why auto builders switched from carbs to FI is because over the production span of an automobile, the FI is cheaper, both in out of pocket expenses and to install on the assembly line. Period. That's the same reason why auto manufacturers switched from leaf to c**lsprings. Because they are cheaper.
As auto technology has advanced, the backyard mechanic has been falling further behind the curve and continues to get further left behind with each new generation of automobiles. Instead of being able to modify an engine, the modern day hot rodder now changes a chip. I find this to be hilarious. But, what other options does the hot rodder have? Not many at this stage. Everything that can be done to an engine has already been done at the factory and doing things like installing a higher duration cam can't be accomplished because the engine won't run properly with it. What you buy is what you are stuck with nowdays.
The biggest argument that I hear regarding FI systems is "With my FI, my rig will run upside-down!" Welllll, la-de-da!!! First, I drive don't upside-down, but if I did I could modify a carb to run upside-down just like an FI can. What's this I hear? It can't be done??? BS! It CAN be done and it's done every day!!! Look at small aircraft. They have carbs and they are able to fly upside-down all they want to. You just have to be slightly more intelligent than whatever it is you are working on in order to be able to overcome problems.
People are inherently lazy and gullible and they respond well to what everybody else is using. When enough people starting doing something, or using something, then it becomes valid, whether it's actually valid or not. For example, people now seem to think that aluminum radiators cool more efficently than brass ones do. Nothing could be further than the truth! There is no way that aluminum can absorb and displace heat more effiecently than brass can. It is an physical impossibility! However, due to some very slick sales techniques, the aftermarket aluminum radiator manufacturers have convinced the gullible public that they do. After they've sold enough units, then it becomes valid in the minds of the enthusists. I find this to be absolutely incredible! People just refuse to sit down for a few minutes and think things out because of ignorance or laziness. They have convinced themselves that a $500.00 aluminum radiator is cooling their rigs better than a $200.00 brass radiator can do, because they need a reason to justify the exhorbiant cost of the aluminum radiator in the first place.
Our befuddled friend, 03RUBICON has allowed himself to become a victim of this ploy and it's obvious that he's now absolutely convinced himself that if he uses a carburetor, he will die. Therefore, he continues to pound his head against that brick wall, trying to repair something when the simple fix is well within his grasp. I find this to be comical and I get a lot of laughs from peoples' ignorance. It's just amazing! I guess if enough people state something then over time, it must be true! C**lsprings flex better than leafsprings!!! BS!!! A spring is a spring is a spring, ad infinium! One type does NOT flex any better or worse than the other!!! The both can do the exact same job!!! The only difference is that you need use a slightly different method in order to get 100% articulation from a leafspring than you do for a c**lspring. Why people refuse to grasp this basic simple concept is beyond my reasoning.
Your friend;
LAMAR
Relax, my wise friend, we can't win here because these people can't think outside of the box. The biggest problem facing the modern day builder is the ability to resolve a problem, using the simpliest means at one's disposal. Most 4X4 enthusists have been indocturnated by the aftermarket to believe that carburetors are inherently inferior to FI. If they didn't do this, then who would spend the major $$$ to swap from a carb to an FI?
Why do auto manufacturers use FI now instead of carburetors? First, because they can squeeze a bit cleaner exhaust out of an FI system that can be squeezed out with a carb, but that's not the real reason. The real reason why auto builders switched from carbs to FI is because over the production span of an automobile, the FI is cheaper, both in out of pocket expenses and to install on the assembly line. Period. That's the same reason why auto manufacturers switched from leaf to c**lsprings. Because they are cheaper.
As auto technology has advanced, the backyard mechanic has been falling further behind the curve and continues to get further left behind with each new generation of automobiles. Instead of being able to modify an engine, the modern day hot rodder now changes a chip. I find this to be hilarious. But, what other options does the hot rodder have? Not many at this stage. Everything that can be done to an engine has already been done at the factory and doing things like installing a higher duration cam can't be accomplished because the engine won't run properly with it. What you buy is what you are stuck with nowdays.
The biggest argument that I hear regarding FI systems is "With my FI, my rig will run upside-down!" Welllll, la-de-da!!! First, I drive don't upside-down, but if I did I could modify a carb to run upside-down just like an FI can. What's this I hear? It can't be done??? BS! It CAN be done and it's done every day!!! Look at small aircraft. They have carbs and they are able to fly upside-down all they want to. You just have to be slightly more intelligent than whatever it is you are working on in order to be able to overcome problems.
People are inherently lazy and gullible and they respond well to what everybody else is using. When enough people starting doing something, or using something, then it becomes valid, whether it's actually valid or not. For example, people now seem to think that aluminum radiators cool more efficently than brass ones do. Nothing could be further than the truth! There is no way that aluminum can absorb and displace heat more effiecently than brass can. It is an physical impossibility! However, due to some very slick sales techniques, the aftermarket aluminum radiator manufacturers have convinced the gullible public that they do. After they've sold enough units, then it becomes valid in the minds of the enthusists. I find this to be absolutely incredible! People just refuse to sit down for a few minutes and think things out because of ignorance or laziness. They have convinced themselves that a $500.00 aluminum radiator is cooling their rigs better than a $200.00 brass radiator can do, because they need a reason to justify the exhorbiant cost of the aluminum radiator in the first place.
Our befuddled friend, 03RUBICON has allowed himself to become a victim of this ploy and it's obvious that he's now absolutely convinced himself that if he uses a carburetor, he will die. Therefore, he continues to pound his head against that brick wall, trying to repair something when the simple fix is well within his grasp. I find this to be comical and I get a lot of laughs from peoples' ignorance. It's just amazing! I guess if enough people state something then over time, it must be true! C**lsprings flex better than leafsprings!!! BS!!! A spring is a spring is a spring, ad infinium! One type does NOT flex any better or worse than the other!!! The both can do the exact same job!!! The only difference is that you need use a slightly different method in order to get 100% articulation from a leafspring than you do for a c**lspring. Why people refuse to grasp this basic simple concept is beyond my reasoning.
Your friend;
LAMAR
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Oh boy where to start :haha:
First off, carbs ARE inherently inferior to FI. For our purposes, FI is most important for two reasons. One, it runs up side down, or more importantly, it runs WELL at extreme angles that are common in this sport, and they do it without smoking or dripping gas or any of the other lame crap a carb does. Second, FI provides better fuel economy, especially in odd angles, where again, a carb will screw the mixture all up and waste fuel. Fuel economy is important when you have a long drive ahead of you and no gas stations.......
Your example of airplanes flying up side down is wildly flawed. First, most airplanes cannot fly up side down. Their airframes aren't designed for it. When such a plane does go upside down, it's not the same as inverted flight. The plane must follow a path that provides positive G-forces. From the plane's point of view, it never really goes up side down at all. Planes that actually can go into inverted flight, with negative G's and everything, are FUEL INJECTED :flipoff:
Around here, FI is common and cheap. We have wrecking yards FULL of FI parts that are cheap and perfectly suitable for offroad use. I suspect it's a lot different in Bolivia., and if we didn't have such easily obtainable FI around here, we'd be doing a lot more with carbs too :;
First off, carbs ARE inherently inferior to FI. For our purposes, FI is most important for two reasons. One, it runs up side down, or more importantly, it runs WELL at extreme angles that are common in this sport, and they do it without smoking or dripping gas or any of the other lame crap a carb does. Second, FI provides better fuel economy, especially in odd angles, where again, a carb will screw the mixture all up and waste fuel. Fuel economy is important when you have a long drive ahead of you and no gas stations.......
Your example of airplanes flying up side down is wildly flawed. First, most airplanes cannot fly up side down. Their airframes aren't designed for it. When such a plane does go upside down, it's not the same as inverted flight. The plane must follow a path that provides positive G-forces. From the plane's point of view, it never really goes up side down at all. Planes that actually can go into inverted flight, with negative G's and everything, are FUEL INJECTED :flipoff:
Around here, FI is common and cheap. We have wrecking yards FULL of FI parts that are cheap and perfectly suitable for offroad use. I suspect it's a lot different in Bolivia., and if we didn't have such easily obtainable FI around here, we'd be doing a lot more with carbs too :;
Dear Lamar;
To the carburetor ignorant (me), what can i/we do to my little weber/any carb to get it to run better at the harsh angles (toyota 20r)? I hear messing with the floats help. What else?? I feel kinda wierd about cracking the thing open myself and messing with stuff. I fear it will perform worse than it does now. It runs great going down hill, its just going up hill the thing runs like crap. Sorry for the thread highjack but all this talk about carbs...
To the carburetor ignorant (me), what can i/we do to my little weber/any carb to get it to run better at the harsh angles (toyota 20r)? I hear messing with the floats help. What else?? I feel kinda wierd about cracking the thing open myself and messing with stuff. I fear it will perform worse than it does now. It runs great going down hill, its just going up hill the thing runs like crap. Sorry for the thread highjack but all this talk about carbs...
