Dodge 47RE builders

crash2 · Jul 27, 2011

Avanteone said:
No need to PM, I'll just post it here. $3,350 plus tax. Includes triple disk billet lid converter and the other upgrades. Billet shafts could be added for similar pricing to what you're being quoted. 3yr, 100k mile warranty. I've done lots of these for my customers with zero issues. I'm getting ready to have them do upgrades in my Allison also.

John

Is that just the trans by itself John?

Avanteone · Jul 27, 2011

crash said:
Is that just the trans by itself John?

Yes.

crash2 · Jul 27, 2011

Avanteone said:
No need to PM, I'll just post it here. $3,350 plus tax. Includes triple disk billet lid converter and the other upgrades. Billet shafts could be added for similar pricing to what you're being quoted. 3yr, 100k mile warranty. I've done lots of these for my customers with zero issues. I'm getting ready to have them do upgrades in my Allison also.

John

This is where I am having a hard time saving a few bucks by doing it myself.

zukkev · Jul 27, 2011

If you plan on keeping the dodge another 100k, and/or 3yrs, i'd say it's worth the piece of mind...another thing to keep in mind, who pulls the trans IF for some reason a problem occurs within warranty and it's self-installed???...
Barrett Trans Specialties in b'ham offers same warranty on self-installed units, and (IIRC) if a problem occurs, they take care of the R&R if necessary...:awesomework: But doesn't hurt to call to be sure...

skinny_pedal · Jul 30, 2011

crash said:
This is where I am having a hard time saving a few bucks by doing it myself.

Mike you are obviously more than capable of building the trans. But if it were me, I wouldn't even think twice. Murpheys law is a bitch and the money you saved building it yourself isn't worth it pulling it apart twice. Id pay for the warrenty.

crash2 · Jul 31, 2011

skinny_pedal said:
Mike you are obviously more than capable of building the trans. But if it were me, I wouldn't even think twice. Murpheys law is a bitch and the money you saved building it yourself isn't worth it pulling it apart twice. Id pay for the warrenty.

You have the same thought process I do.....

Its one thing to build something and be very capable of it. But for something that can be had with some sort of backing to it---well some things are just worth the extra $$$

BUILTnotBOT · Aug 1, 2011

skinny_pedal said:
Murpheys law is a bitch and the money you saved building it yourself isn't worth it pulling it apart twice. Id pay for the warrenty.

crash said:
Its one thing to build something and be very capable of it. But for something that can be had with some sort of backing to it---well some things are just worth the extra $$$

X3

Experienced, Reputable and WARRANTIED work is the way to go with this one.

Lucky Jeff · Aug 1, 2011

I'm pretty sure Rip sells the dunrite tranny for 3300 installed, no taxes. But that means you have to drive down to northern OR for the work :redneck:. I'll have to check to make sure. I was quoted 3600 for a friends 48re (they're more to rebuild then the 47). But the final cost was way over that because he went with a bunch of billet parts.

toyzuk · Aug 2, 2011

i wonder who your talking about jeff? the tranny is amzing though, i wish i had an auto after riding with brandon.

Turtle Bite · Oct 10, 2011

Well, I finally took the plunge last week. Put some money down on a DTT. I pulled the tranny this weekend, nothing really difficult except the tranny crossmember was press fit between the framerails. Some penetrating oil, a highlift, bottle jack, and prybars eventually freed it. There was alot of metal on the drain plug (keep in mind only 7K miles since I flushed) and the fluid was completely NUKED. There was even a ton of metal on the magnetic VSS.

I decided to go with a billet input but I am going to chance the stock flexplate. Stephen at DTT spent some time with me on the phone discussing how I used the truck and what I was looking for. Gave me a good deal on the billet input to help "convince" me to get it.

Question, what is the best way to flush the tranny lines at home. I have heard there is an Aersol can of some sort but I havent seen it?

Also, does anyone know the part number or someone who sells ARP converter to flexplate bolts? I have tried summit and looking on Comp D/ cumminsforum, but no luck so far.

zukkev · Oct 10, 2011

Just about any parts house should have the flush can...I'd also hit up a local trans shop.... In a pinch you can use brake-clean and shop air to blow the lines clean/dry, but the flush chem does a better job of getting the really fine material off the walls of the trans cooler tubing....

One thing to consider, do your trans cooler lines still contain the thermostatic flow valve?? If so, you'll never get the lines clean---sometimes you just have to replace...Did DTT mention this???

Avanteone · Oct 10, 2011

My builder instructs me to flat out remove that valve if there is one installed. And this is the flush we use for the lines:

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-184/Dr.+Tranny+Kooler+Kleen

Schucks/Oreillys carries Lubegard products. Are you reusing factory cooler or adding aftermarket?

zukkev · Oct 10, 2011

Avanteone said:
My builder instructs me to flat out remove that valve if there is one installed.

Yes, this.... I have also been instructed in the past to remove the valve if it's in there.

Turtle Bite · Oct 10, 2011

zukkev said:
Just about any parts house should have the flush can...I'd also hit up a local trans shop.... In a pinch you can use brake-clean and shop air to blow the lines clean/dry, but the flush chem does a better job of getting the really fine material off the walls of the trans cooler tubing....

One thing to consider, do your trans cooler lines still contain the thermostatic flow valve?? If so, you'll never get the lines clean---sometimes you just have to replace...Did DTT mention this???

When you say thermostatic valve, do you mean the convertor one way/ anti drain back valve on the cooler line of the tranny? There is discussion of it in my FSM and a TSB, but I dont know of a thermo valve. I just got the tranny on a pallet last night, so I havent gotten that far with DTT, but no mention of the valve yet. I will write myself a reminder to ask him about it before stab the tranny back in.

Avanteone said:
My builder instructs me to flat out remove that valve if there is one installed. And this is the flush we use for the lines:

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-184/Dr.+Tranny+Kooler+Kleen

Schucks/Oreillys carries Lubegard products. Are you reusing factory cooler or adding aftermarket?

I am using the factory cooler. I have a temp gauge and a deep pan, even towing the big trailer on a hot day the temp rarely gets over 150F, so I dont think I really need a second cooler.

Thanks for the link, that the stuff I was thinking of. I got two of the cooler lines out that I will clean in the parts washer, but I am going to use the can for the radiator cooler and the lines that suck to pull.

Avanteone · Oct 10, 2011

You may wanna check with your builder about re-using factory cooler. You can never get ALL of the crap out after a trans. has failed badly. My guy won't warranty the HD built units unless we remove the factory cooler (or at least bypass) and run an aftermarket unit.

Turtle Bite · Oct 11, 2011

Picked up some Kooler Kleen last night and 2 cases of cheap ATF+4 (6$ a quart) for the break in. Took 4 stores to find it but some Oreilly's carry it. Turns out that stuff is 60% mineral spirits, 20% denatured alcohol, and propane. I am going to flush the cooler the best I can because I would really like to keep it. I would rather replace the radiator than retrofit an aftermarket one.

skinny_pedal · Oct 12, 2011

We use the Kooler Kleen. Stuff works killer

Turtle Bite · Nov 5, 2011

Still waiting on the tranny from DTT. I flushed the cooler. The t-case rear output seal was weeping so I tracked down a seal and bushing. No local parts store, including the dealer, could get the bushing. I ordered it and the seal from Quad 4x4 and got it in 2 days. The seal was $13 and the same as the one I bought from the dealer for $40. Replaced one of the missing splash shields in the front wheel well. Also bought a set of 18" wheels and some used tires. Really need to get this thing back together soon, hauling tires on the roof of my Geo is starting to get old:redneck:

Avanteone · Nov 5, 2011

Wait you ordered it on the 10TH OF OCTOBER and you're still waiting for it? I guess that's another reason I like dealing with a local builder, I never have to wait more than 2 or 3 days.

Turtle Bite · Nov 7, 2011

Avanteone said:
Wait you ordered it on the 10TH OF OCTOBER and you're still waiting for it? I guess that's another reason I like dealing with a local builder, I never have to wait more than 2 or 3 days.

I put a deposit down on the 10th so they could order the torque converter (the triple disc converters are stalled according to the trucks use). I am also using the shipping carrier that my brother works for because I get a discount, but that means they only pick up and dropoff in Blaine once a week and DTT didnt get the tranny until the 17th. I also asked that my tranny be rebuilt instead of a core, which means they have to wait for it. DTT was upfront when I ordered that they were busy and it would take about two weeks, so Im not ticked. My old man has a fleet of farm trucks that I can borrow and I wouldnt have sent it to DTT if turnaround time was critical. Hopefully the quality will be worth the wait.