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Entry level "recipies"

SnoFalls

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 26, 2006
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251
Location
Redding, CA
What are the various "recipies" available to someone who's a newb, but wants to build a mild wheeler.

As a basis, I'm talking about taking a stock vehicle, doing some lift+tires+lockers+armor (no axle swaps, or engine swaps, or anything major). Having that rig then be capable offroad for say 75% of the trails in WA, and also still be streetable (maybe even a DD).

I also would like some reasonable estimates on costs for the base vehicle and the price on the mods. For example, a sami can be a nice basis, but recently even a stock sami commands a high price. Please avoid the "good deal" pricing, but reasonable estimates for what avg joe might be able to get. If you include custom fab work in your recipie, then provide a range (e.g. find a buddy to cut ya a break or pay up the azz at a "shop").

BTW, I figure things like winch and CB and etc are all common no matter which rig recipie is choosen.

This isn't about price either. A cheapo recipie may not be the best for some who then wanna "add-on" later. Then again a cheapo rig could be treated as a "disposable" rig. Some rigs might be "better" as a basis for the "add-on" factor, so add a comment if ya like.

I'll followup here in a few with one recipie, but would like to here from jeepers, yotafans, k5folk, etc.

This topic may have been covered, but it I haven't seen it ... sry if this is :beatdeadhorse:

I'm looking forward to hearing about ZJ recipies, IFS yotas, and more ...
 
a trac/kick recipie

Rig:
A 89-98 Geo Tracker or Suzuki Sidekick
$1500 is a reasonable average. I'd say $1000 to $2500 is a decent range.
Newer rigs might cost more, but a well maintained rig with 250k on the clock is NOT worn out, so mileage shouldn't be a primary consideration.

Lift:
2" spring spacers == $100
Do a "strut flip" == $5 for some grade8 hardware
Longer "crown vic" shocks == $50

Tires:
30x9.50 MT's == $500 new ($200 used)
(may need some minor fender trimming)

Lockers:
none if a DD, but if a weekend rig that's also streetable ...
Mini-spool for the rear == $100

Armor:
Custom Front and Rear bumbers (with front winch mount) == $300-$600
Rocker protection == $100-$300
Skid plates == $100-$300

Notice you may spend more on armor than anything else ... if it's a disposable rig you can forgo some of that expense.

"Add-ons" can get the rig to 33" tires with a body lift, diff drop, etc.
A SAS is also possible but can get quite spendy.
 
quit while your ahead and just buidl a buggy. :) thats if you are sure it'd work for you. Go for a few runs with some buggy's and get a feel for them. They sell for pretty cheap with alot of good parts used.

wish i had... would of saved me thousands over the years.

if your going to build...heres some advice i heard somewhere.

Buy the best parts you can (even if it means saving for awhile), poor people can't afford to buy cheap parts.

Best Bang for you buck is a toyota these days IMHO
 
Sry if I wasn't clear ...

I was looking for what a newbb could get started with ... even if they eventually part it out and go "buggy".

For example a recipie *could* be get a JK off the showroom, add some tires and armor have fun and learn to wheel. When ya wanna go further, THEN decide to D60/14b the JK, etc

Another example, perhaps I got some killer deal on grandmas XJ ... what would be the "recipie" to make it into a mild wheeler and still reasonably streetable for a grocery getter.
 
Boil it down to a jeep samy or toyota. These rigs with a winch will do 75% of the trails in a stock configuration. Pick the one that you will feel the coolest driving and go from there. Get out to the trails and fart around along with a shitload of reading and gawking at other peoples rigs to decide how you want to build it.

I built an 86 4runner to the hilt. To give you an idea I paid 2 grand for the truck and then another 6-8 grand worth of parts and a shitload of time working on it. Eventually the body was pounded and I sold it for 5.

Sometimes its cheaper to buy a rig ready to go, but then you dont have the fun of building it. If you dont like working on a rig than trail riding prob isn't your game. (Exceptions include Money Mark)
 
Sometimes its cheaper to buy a rig ready to go, but then you dont have the fun of building it. If you dont like working on a rig than trail riding prob isn't your game. (Exceptions include Money Mark)


:haha: Oh snap! :haha:
 
I'd say take a $5000 allowance and buy the "best" available trail rig for sale on local boards, papers, trader, etc. in a 30 day time frame.

Then that beginner could ascertain how much $$$ and time are lost in "building" a rig, whilst actually wheeling.

Finally, most would then buy an early yota and build/have built a formula toyota.

Seems like a given to me.:rolleyes:

:stirpot: :corn:
 
The only recipe you need is, GO WHEELING.

If you have to ask, you haven't been wheeling enough.

Crusty the point is to get a "recipie" for those who "haven't been wheeling enough". Ask yourself what you would suggest to some co-worker (or perhaps spouse), who's sat in a biatch seat once or twice and says ... "dayum this is kewl, how should I get started"

I'd say take a $5000 allowance and buy the "best" available trail rig for sale on local boards, papers, trader, etc. in a 30 day time frame.

Then that beginner could ascertain how much $$$ and time are lost in "building" a rig, whilst actually wheeling.
Decent answer ... e.g. buy one built and wheel it. Then decide on what how to *really* proceed further.
So, ToyBug why $5000?
what's the price point for a wheelable yota?
what's the price point for a wheelable jeep?
what's the price point for a wheelable sami?
 
Crusty the point is to get a "recipie" for those who "haven't been wheeling enough". Ask yourself what you would suggest to some co-worker (or perhaps spouse), who's sat in a biatch seat once or twice and says ... "dayum this is kewl, how should I get started"
You mean who doesn't have a 4x4? I'd say "buy a fuel injected 4.0 liter Jeep YJ and go play."

Decent answer ... e.g. buy one built and wheel it.
I wouldn't recommend that. Build it because you out grew what it can do, not because you think some other rig is neato.
 
what's the price point for a wheelable yota?
what's the price point for a wheelable jeep?
what's the price point for a wheelable sami?
Those are laughably subjective questions. All those rigs are perfectly wheelable in stock form. You just have to know their limits. How will you know their limits? Hmm, ahh, oh yes, GO WHEELING :flipoff:
 
I didn't realize my point here would be so hard to comprehend.

Say some shmo has a uh ... stock TJ and wants to make it "capapble". Yes, I understand it's "trail ready", but it will need better tires (correct?), probably should get some armor (aka a winch bumper, perhaps some skid plates, etc).

SO, WHAT"S THE FRIGGIN RECIPIE. Given the rig how much "pollishing" is he gunna do to that turd that is a waste? (aka why locker a D30, but the winch and bumper are a decnent investment).

I used a TJ above as an example, but what about an XJ, or IFS yota, or ...

I'm certain some folks have paid there dues regarding a TJ or XJ or IFS yota and can intelligently chime in with a "do this, and then that, and then stop before you end up pollishing that turd".

Can some shmo wheel a stock rig? (happens too often actually) ...
In some cases perhaps, but cmon open diffs, no recovery points, etc.
Would you really suggest that to some friend who's a newb?
 
buy an 80's straight axle yota put some rock sliders and tires on it and wheel it to figure out what would fit you best. You could probably be into it all for less then 2000.00(depending on year)
 
When I bought my Jeep, my mindset was that I wanted to purchase a rig that I could take to the trails immediately with confidence. I don't have the time or space to build from the ground up even though I envy those that do. However, since I am mechanically inclined, I also wanted to find something that had decent aftermarket support so that I could "tweak" the rig in the future to my liking.

I ended up with a purpose-built, short wheel-base rig pimpin products from established companies that receive high marks from those that have used and abused 'em. Cost me more than I typically like to admit but in my mind (and maybe that's what is most important) it was worth it. Of course, successful trail testing has also helped solidify my satisfaction.

In case you are asking what I purchased...1980 Jeep CJ5 w/ some decent power & parts.
 
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Here is the recipe.

Step 1: Wheel what you have and identify shortcomings/weaknesses specific to your wheeling style and desires
Step 2: Fix/Upgrade shortcomings/weaknesses.
Step 3: Repeat Step 1.
 
I don't think I'd call it a recipe, but I'd tell a guy not to wheel without recovery equipment. That means usable tow points, a tug strap, maybe some chain, some shackles, a tree strap, preferably a winch, but a come along or high lift jack can also do the trick in a pinch.

He'll get his open diffed stock tired POS stuck once or twice and realize that come along sucks, and having no traction sucks, and it'll go from there. He won't be putting big fat tires on because he read some fancy recipe, he'll be doing it because he knows from EXPERIENCE that stock tires suck.
 
Can some shmo wheel a stock rig? (happens too often actually) ...
In some cases perhaps, but cmon open diffs, no recovery points, etc.
Would you really suggest that to some friend who's a newb?

Thats a viable suggestion because we were all there at one time. All he is sayin is take a puff and have fun, no reason to smoke the whole bag right off the get go. :D
 
your questions are too broad. Most of them you need to answer your self. Plus you need to answer/ask yourself further questions...do you have a shop or regular access to one? Can you fab? do you have tools? how much money do you have to spend? after you buy a rig how much do you have to spend on building it? can you build it yourself?

As others have said get a rig you feel most comfortable with, then take it from there. In my book its either a jeep or a toyota. Each has its advantages, I would recommend a 4.0 YJ.
 
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