Mazda B2200 Build

[olywa]

Starting with a 1987 Mazda B2200 X-Cab 2wd. The list below is a run down on what the basics of the truck will be. We have already started this project so we are a little ways in to it all ready, as I bough the truck already started and we are now in the process of removing some of the previous owners work to re do it and make it mo better. This build we will be trying to fab up all the parts that we can to save $$ as at this time $$ seems to be more important then time.

Engine
- Ford 302
- Bored 30 over
- Flat top pistons
- Hooker Headers
- Edelbrock performer intake
- Edelbrock 750 cfm performer carb
- Big Cam
- MSD Ignition and coil
- Dual 3" Flowmaster Exhaust

Trans & Transfer Case​

- C4 Trans with shift kit
- Divorced NP 205

Front Axle​

- Danna 44
- Waggy Springs
- Moved 7" Forward

Rear Axle​

- 12 Bolt Chevy
- Lincoln Locked
- Chevy 63's

Chassis​

- Mazda 2wd Frame
- Exo Cage
- All Tube Rear Cage (no Bed)

With the Bed Off & Front Axle Off

 

[olywa]

went to the shop and we got the 7" frame extension mocked up yesterday. Still needs work, next time at the shop we will get all the gussets made up and welded on and finish it off.

Front view of the frame and hanger

Side view of the front hanger and back hanger

 

[olywa]

We got the front closer to being done still need to make new shackles and do some touch up but it is now sitting on the springs. Also got the tires put under it - makes it look more done :smokin:

Didn't get as much done as wanted to this weekend but the front is a little tricky for never doing one before, it was not as easy as I thought it be.

Decided to run the shackles out front for a little more flex, but the biggest reason it helps raise the pinion. It will never be driven on the pavement so thought that would be the best route to go on my budget.

Hopefully get out to the shop this week some time and get the pwr steering box mounted and the t-case at least by the end of this week. Going to need to cut the floor pan to get the divorced 205 t-case up as far as one can.

Does the angle of the shackle look right ??

With 38.5" tires on

Side view of front extension with all the weight on the springs at ride height (temp shackles)

Front view with all the weight on the springs at ride height

 

[olywa]

Got the inside of the truck stripped out and the floor cut out so we can tuck the t-case up a little higher. Made up the jackshaft and got it connected to the trans and the t-case. After the holiday weekend get back at it on Monday and get the mounts all built and see if we can have the t-case all mounted by the end of the day ?? The next thing is to figure out the t-case shifter and linkage. any ideas ??

t-case and jackshaft

 

[olywa]

been busy on the build this week got all the front end done with the Toyota steering box in and all hooked up and the np205 divorced T-case mounts made and t-case installed. Last night started working on the rear. wire wheeled the frame and cut all the bs brackets off and almost ready to start the tubing

couple ??'s how long of a shackle can one go with ?? Their is blocks in the rear to get it to the level ride height and using the chev 63's I would like to eliminate most or all the blocks if possible 4" of blocks

 

[81toycrawler]

im running 63's on my toy with no blocks and a 4 1/2 inch shackle with 40's

 

[olywa]

Yeah but if I remember right you are also running a 3" body lift :rb: I would rather have a block then any sorta of body lift.

 

[81toycrawler]

im taking out the body lift, it was on the truck when i originally got it and i dont have a bed on and when i did it was a flat bed. trust me you dont need a block the lower the better.

 

[bobbed_84_toy]

Yeah but if I remember right you are also running a 3" body lift :rb: I would rather have a block then any sorta of body lift.

You're running cut 38" boggers on welded 1/2 ton axles with a v8 and you're calling a bodylift :rb:? You're gonna be bending lots of springs with your front shackle stuck out like that too.

 

[olywa]

trust me you dont need a block the lower the better

Yes that is the direction we are going. take all the blocks out of the rear and lower the front to match as the truck came out WAY taller then first expected when we mocked up the suspension, looked good till we put the 38.5" tires under her. :redneck: So all in all I think it should be lowered 4-5" from where it sits now.

You're running cut 38" boggers on welded 1/2 ton axles with a v8 and you're calling a bodylift ?

Yup body lifts are :gay1:

as far as the axles only the rear is welded. :redneck:

I had a '85 4Runner with a sb 350 dyno'd @ 197hp at the rear wheels riding on Toyota axles locked F & R on 36's and never once broke anything in the axles

so I figure with the danna 44 mods on the full circle clip and the weakest point of the 12 bolt is the spiders so weld 'em no more problems.

If I had 1200 dollars to dump on axles then I would have Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear but ......... It really depends on how heavy your foot is and how smart you are !!!!

You're gonna be bending lots of springs with your front shackle stuck out like that too.

Yes after much debate we are going to be going back after we got the T-Case mounted the front ds angle will not be that bad.

 

[olywa]

Got the back of the frame all buttoned up. The hangers on and the shackles made and installed. The shackles came out to be 10" center hole to center hole and they sit at a 30 deg angle. Made them out of 3/8" x 3" flat stock :redneck: they look a little big oh well. Also got the rear drive line made up out of square tubing it has 18" of slip that should be enough. :redneck:

Post some pics in the morning