Powerstroke!

4xjunkie · Sep 10, 2008

Tankota said:
the recall that I know of is for the CPS. makes the truck hiccup or stall at any time. Just had mine done. Shouldn't only make a diff on hot startups but it'd be worth a try.

.

Yes I realize what it is for. And yes it can cause a hot no start, among several other issues.

zukkev · Sep 11, 2008

It's not a bad idea to check into the CPS recall, but it doesn't sound like what's goin on here....

Turtle Bite · Sep 11, 2008

zukkev said:
Sounds almost like the HPOP oil resivoir is draining back into the crankcase...

Why would it do that only when hot? Wouldnt it be hard to start cold and hot if the oil was draining out of the reservoir?

zukkev · Sep 11, 2008

Turtle Bite said:
Why would it do that only when hot? Wouldnt it be hard to start cold and hot if the oil was draining out of the reservoir?

You'd think, but It's happened before here at the shop I work at---Been awhile since we had one do this, so I don't remember exactly what was causing it... Just trying to throw out possible causes...It may also be suckin air in the fuel system too---

jeepermc · Sep 16, 2008

Could also be injector O-rings......

zukkev · Sep 17, 2008

jeepermc said:
Could also be injector O-rings......

True...

jeepermc · Sep 18, 2008

Not a bad job if that's what it is... you can get Alliant o-rings off e-bay for about $50...... Tedious but...... Not all that bad... Just have to make sure you get em properly torqued back down after the new o-rings... A retorque after they warm up is not a bad idea either. You can run em with the valve covers off. Might as well do glow plugs when you're there...You gotta take em out anyway. Motorcraft/ Beru. Nothing else.

zukkev · Sep 18, 2008

jeepermc said:
Not a bad job if that's what it is... you can get Alliant o-rings off e-bay for about $50...... Tedious but...... Not all that bad... Just have to make sure you get em properly torqued back down after the new o-rings... A retorque after they warm up is not a bad idea either. You can run em with the valve covers off. Might as well do glow plugs when you're there...You gotta take em out anyway. Motorcraft/ Beru. Nothing else.

Also, make sure you get as much coolant/oil out of the combustion chambers as possible once you pull the injectors....suggestion, pull the rear two first, then suck out all that drained into the chambers, then pull the rest----:awesomework:

vr4 · Oct 22, 2008

Tankota said:
the recall that I know of is for the CPS. makes the truck hiccup or stall at any time. Just had mine done. Shouldn't only make a diff on hot startups but it'd be worth a try.

ps CPS=Cam Position Sensor...and it fixed my hiccup dying prob that had started lately. I've carried a spare with me for several years...was nice to get a free one though.

keep that spare with you. theres been some issues with that new cam sensor.

im a tech at a ford ford dealer.

zukkev · Oct 22, 2008

Hey Matt, you get the problem resolved??? :corn:

NotMatt · Oct 22, 2008

zukkev said:
Hey Matt, you get the problem resolved??? :corn:

It sort of went away on it's own, I guess. Or maybe I'm just used to how the truck acts now. I do have some blue smoke on startup and some smoke at idle, and sometimes it seems like the timing just isn't right when it's idling, kind of a knock/lope that can be felt in the cab. I'm thinking at about 150k it probably needs a set of injectors.

What's involved in doing an injector balance test?

zukkev · Oct 22, 2008

NotMatt said:
It sort of went away on it's own, I guess. Or maybe I'm just used to how the truck acts now. I do have some blue smoke on startup and some smoke at idle, and sometimes it seems like the timing just isn't right when it's idling, kind of a knock/lope that can be felt in the cab. I'm thinking at about 150k it probably needs a set of injectors.

What's involved in doing an injector balance test?

IF it's a bad enough miss, the snapon scanner (MT2500 w/ black cartridges, or Solus, or Modis) will detect a problem, or if you are concerned about possibly galled/sticking injector pintles(inj bal test won't usually pick this up, unless it's REALLY bad!) try this----> remove fuel filter & suck out the diesel, then refill the housing with a GOOD lubricity additive (Stanadyne or Dez'lene), install filter & take it for a drive, if you notice a significant improvement in how it idles/runs, you've likely got injector issues.....

t1h5ta3 · Oct 24, 2008

zukkev said:
IF it's a bad enough miss, the snapon scanner (MT2500 w/ black cartridges, or Solus, or Modis) will detect a problem, or if you are concerned about possibly galled/sticking injector pintles(inj bal test won't usually pick this up, unless it's REALLY bad!) try this----> remove fuel filter & suck out the diesel, then refill the housing with a GOOD lubricity additive (Stanadyne or Dez'lene), install filter & take it for a drive, if you notice a significant improvement in how it idles/runs, you've likely got injector issues.....

i usualy recomend all my buddies stop @ a truck stop and grab a jug of Howes Meener cleaner once a year. folow the directions for strong doseing, 2 double doses then std doses usualy takes care of even realy bad injectors.... dont forget to drive it like ya stole it once in a while!:awesomework:

zukkev · Oct 24, 2008

That's fine too, but make sure whatever you use has a GOOD lubricity additive, as some of the 'cleaners' out there actually don't help with lubricity--stripping the system of any protection it may have had...causing the pintles to stick/gall even worse! Just make sure (whatever you use) it has good lubricity additives....:awesomework:

Fattz · Nov 7, 2008

very nice rig. hope you get it going i love to see the OBS's out on the road. also some good info here...

http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index.html

tjmp111 · Jan 4, 2009

If you still have the 10k diode in it take that thing out. I bet that it will solve all your problems. Get a real chip and you will like it alot better.

NotMatt · Jan 4, 2009

tjmp111 said:
If you still have the 10k diode in it take that thing out. I bet that it will solve all your problems. Get a real chip and you will like it alot better.

Never did the 10k diode, it's all stock still.

The knock/lope on idle is my dual mass flywheel starting to give up.

I also have a transfer case that needs rebuilding... so I might as well pull the whole mess, install a new clutch and a standard flywheel, and rebuild the t-case. Hell while I'm at it, I could just burn some hundred dollar bills too.

This truck turned out not to be such a great purchase. I love it, but I haven't even got to tinker with it yet due to having to focus on just fixing the problems with it. :booo:

zukkev · Jan 4, 2009

Sorry to hear your woes matt...but you and I, and I'm sure everyone else knows that when a deal is too good to let pass, there's usually something lurking in the shadows when buying a great 'deal'...get these issues fixed, then run it awhile to make sure nothing else creeps up---then start playin w/ it!!:redneck:

NotMatt · Jan 4, 2009

zukkev said:
Sorry to hear your woes matt...but you and I, and I'm sure everyone else knows that when a deal is too good to let pass, there's usually something lurking in the shadows when buying a great 'deal'...get these issues fixed, then run it awhile to make sure nothing else creeps up---then start playin w/ it!!:redneck:

Yep, it's all good. I still love this truck, and unless I can work a deal with my brother to get my old Dodge back, I will end up keeping this one for a while... so it's more frustration than anything about putting money into it right now.