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Sport climbers

Nicole and I went climbing again yesterday. We went to Leavenworth for the first time and checked out what their climbing has to offer. We started with a 3 pitch route in Tumwater canyon. First 2 pitchs were 5.8 sport routes and then a 5.10 sport/ trad mix up on top. The rock was interesting. I like the granite on our side of the mountains a whole lot better. We didn't get to take any pics, too busy climbing and exploring. It was a fun climb though and a good sense of completion when we reached the top together. My favorite part was using some of my new cams while hanging by my finger tips.

Then we drove down the icicle creek canyon and hung out at a trad rock there. Lots of friction climbing and we met our first climbing snobs. We did a super hard 5.9 crack that looked alot easier than it was. Nicole did awesome and climbed strong all day, I swear she's getting better than I am.

I went to Vantage and climbed alone after Mark canceled on me last wed. Was fun but un-nerving being out there alone. Hopefully we can do some climbing this wed together back up at the Far Side at 38. I love the rock up there! It's still an open invite if anyone wants to go push their limits with us??
 
Mark and I went up to the Far Side area of exit 38 again yesterday, it was ****ing awesome! Well except for this death gulley that we mistakenly hiked down with our packs on, and then had to bush whack back up. That was a butt kicker and a knee killer. The weather was great and we were on some of my favorite granite.

We started with a nice 2 pitch 5.10a slab, then a REALLY hard 5.10d followed by total denial on a 5.11d. A friend from work came out in the morning and did the 2 pitch route with us. It's always fun sharing a little rock ledge with friends when your a 100 feet off the ground. After our death gulley adventure we decided to take it easy on a 5.8. Turned out to be the best climb of the day. One of my favorite problems yet actualy. It looked easy at first and then I just ended up thrashing around until my arms were spent, and I have some tough fricken arms. It was slighly kicked back with this overhanging rock that tries to spit you off during the first opening moves. Mark was the first to crack the opening sequence and then he easily finished the lead, I was proud! He pulled some cool hand jams in this vertical crack and then the climbing looked desparate as he searched for his next holds. He did great but you could tell he was pulling hard with his arms pumped and legs shaking. We were thrilled at how much fun this little 5.8 was, I cruise right up 5.10s and here this easy climb had totaly captivated us. We played on it for awhile trying to style it up while we sended it, super fun and I know I'll be bringing people back to that little gem. We finished the day with a nice long 5.10 with some fun overhangs, and then I barely had the strength to hike back to the car. We drove straight to the Mexican Restaurant and consumed food and redbull vodkas.

Mark had his helmet cam out so I'm hoping he puts up another Vid. He's been making steady improvement with his climbing each week and then all of a sudden he's jumped from following 5.8s to leading them and following 5.10s. It's nice to see the hard work paying off.

I can't wait until next week! :beer:
 
It feels good to be getting better at this new hobby of mine.

You're a great teacher Darby.:awesomework:

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eM90OhRbGCE[/YT]
 
I need to change the thread to Trad Climbers now :haha: I love the adventure of multi pitch trad, we are hooked! Thanks for another cool vid Mark :awesomework:
 
I really want to get out there with you guys...Can you let me know your schedule for climbing. I will take a day off work and go with. Plus I miss my pal Darby! He used to be such a good "rock crawler". Somewhere he missed a turn and became a "rock climber" instead:D
 
Darby said:
I need to change the thread to Trad Climbers now :haha: I love the adventure of multi pitch trad, we are hooked! Thanks for another cool vid Mark :awesomework:
Click to expand...

You guys should trek up to Givlers dome and do Givlers crack....so fun. Plus there is some other fun stuff to do up there. Icicle Creek wall has a bunch multipitch moderates that either top out or rap off......good stuff
 
jeepmauler said:
You guys should trek up to Givlers dome and do Givlers crack....so fun. Plus there is some other fun stuff to do up there. Icicle Creek wall has a bunch multipitch moderates that either top out or rap off......good stuff
Click to expand...

Who's crack is fun???????:redneck:
 
This vid is from 8/12 http://vimeo.com/14447621

Darby and I are getting hooked on Alpine multi-pitch (2 or more stages) climbing. This is where you place your own protection and climb for (sometimes) hours at a time. INTENSE! We headed over to Leavenworth, as it has some of the best Alpine / multi-pitch climbs in the state.

Everything was going well until the last pitch. We mis-judged the length of the last pitch by 15 feet.......the rope is 200ft. Darby ran out of rope IN MID CLIMB and I had to change belay stations so he could finish to the top.:eek: And the top of this climb has only a large rock to sling around, in order to create a secondary safety line......so I don't pull Darby off the mountain; if I was to fall. It was a little nerve racking.:cheer::haha:

After he/we figured it out, I finished the climb and we discussed our mistake. The hike down was also INTENSE (sporty:redneck:). Then we headed to town for some food.

After some R&R and food in out tummies, we moved on to another local area; to climb some more. Got home at 10pm.


Awesome day!
 
Last edited:
Infinate Bliss is not chopped! The route is still there, waiting for us.......

I went out the middle fork rd and did some hiking, found the trail head for infinate bliss. Hiked up there and finally put some eyes on this beautiful bigwall. Id say at 23 pitches that it certainly qualifies as a bigwall climb. It looked awesome, rising like 2600ft. Very clean looking rock that looks to be carved out be a glacier. Found the start of the route and now it's invaded my dreams. I'll go attempt my first ascent if we get another dry spell again this year. Might even bivy up on the ledge after pitch 6 so we have a better chance of making the summit in a reasonable time. Mark?? Wait till you see it man! I've never seen anything like this, huge expanse of solid rock.
 

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