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...This Project needs a name build..

JNK-RNR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2006
Messages
685
Location
Cottage GrOrego
Vehicle: Data plate says April 1971 FJ40
Plans: Purists BEWARE
1.) Engine: Stay with the 1F, do the dizzy swap, rebuild carb and bolt on header.
2.) Transmission: Current 3 Speed swap with 4 Speed
3.) Transfer Case: Remove vacuum activated 4WD and swap in cone off the 4speed transfer case
4.) Axles: Re gear, ARB Air Lockers, Disk brake conversion
5.) Frame: Ford F250 shock towers, shackle reversal up front and move the rear back a couple inches. Re-Enforce the frame and plan to tie in the roll cage and bumpers
6.) Tires Pro Comp Extreme Mud Terrain 35x12.50x15 on ProComp rock crushers 15x8
7.) TUB: Good lord where to begin. Pro Car Bucket seats, Herculiner...and who knows what else the future holds

What I started with:

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Slapped in some Herculiner

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Bolt on Shenanigans:

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Cleaned up the wiring and did the bling factor work to the valve cover and air box:

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Ditched the factory seats. Plan on working the seat mounts in when I build the family cage, but this works for now.

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Winter is here:

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Have my tires as well:

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Needed a donor frame mine was rusted to ****, found one.

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frame is sand blasted ( at minus 20 degrees outside btw )

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and this is where the magic is happening now, Kyles (2pwrlfters4u) garage.
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This weekend will see the ford shock towers welded on, and the bumper I have currently on the rusted frame removed and tacked onto the new frame. Also putting on my rebuilt Asin Carb and a new throttle cable.
 
i'm tha mall crawl'n bolt on king... beeyach :fawkdancesmiley:

in fact, those axles in the last pic are gonna just jump under my TJ becasue i have a Poison Spyder sticker
 
I am aboot to do some hard core bolt on shenanigans right here! Have my donor frame in Kyles garage (yes that's him sitting all angry like, and my wife playing Mega Jump on her phone) Ignore the DANA axles, that's more bolt on Shenanigans for the silver TJ. The axles we are going to build for my cruiser are being seasoned in a foot of snow an -30 degree weather outside.


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More to follow... :cheer:
 
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Working on the rear bumper, and template for boxing in the rear of the frame. Once I box in the rear I can finish some bracing of the rear bumper and redo the shackle mounts.








Kyle did some super Big Gay Al bass boat glitter paint job to his dana 300 and the doubler, think I will get him a bedazzler to finish it off.

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getting fun... FJ frame should be a "roller" soon. got some of the frame boxed tonight :corn:

Kyle did some super Big Gay Al bass boat glitter paint job to his dana 300 and the doubler, think I will get him a bedazzler to finish it off.

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like i told y'all, I'm tha bolt on bling king! :fawkdancesmiley:
 
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Considering this is the second thing I have ever welded in my life, and with no instruction other than youtube I think I did a decent job.

The Blinging T-case is for the TJ he is building. I am going to install a 75 Toyota 4speed and use the 3 speed T-case with the lower gears in the 71 FJ40.

Kyle cut and tacked in the passenger side last night, I finished boxing in the rear, and welded the bumper in place today. Going to pick up some tubing tomorrow to finish the triangulation from the bumper to the frame. the remount the rear shackle hangers and the install the rear axle.





 
Hey, what's up guys?

Chris, you may need modify the bumper to accept the 4 body mounts that run along the bottom of the rear sill (unless the bumper sticks out past the rear of the body - then you could just weld some tabs on the backside of the bumper).

Lane
 
Hey, what's up guys?

Chris, you may need modify the bumper to accept the 4 body mounts that run along the bottom of the rear sill (unless the bumper sticks out past the rear of the body - then you could just weld some tabs on the backside of the bumper).

Lane

I was thinking the same thing. The factory bumper (as you know) is a "C" channel that sits flush with the rear of the frame and overlaps the frame on the top giving a surface for the body mounts to bolt onto. I want my bumper to barely stick out from the tub so when I build the tire carrier it is close to the body. Installing the body mounts with this type of bumper will be an interesting feat. Looking at SOR's parts page maybe I should run a plate, or tabs like you suggested, after I put in the bracing on giving the same type of surface as the factory bumper.

http://www.sor.com/sor/cat106.tam?c...result.tam&lpt=1356986514&page.ctx=cat106.tam

Thanks for the reminder Lane.
 
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If the ends are still open (and even if not), you could weld "capture" nuts into the bumper. Of course, you would have to know exactly where they need to be. If you used 3/16 box tubing, you could possibly just drill and tap that for 1/2" mounting bolts. They don't have to handle the weight of the world. The FJ's have 12 body mounts not including the one under the front bib.

Just thinking out loud . . .
 
If the ends are still open (and even if not), you could weld "capture" nuts into the bumper. Of course, you would have to know exactly where they need to be. If you used 3/16 box tubing, you could possibly just drill and tap that for 1/2" mounting bolts. They don't have to handle the weight of the world. The FJ's have 12 body mounts not including the one under the front bib.

Just thinking out loud . . .

Yup, its 3/16. I might cross that bridge when I get ready to put the tub on it. i like the idea of drilling and taping the bumper.
 
4 Speed transmission is back together, as well as front springs hanging. Dragged the axles inside to thaw out to start tearing them down and rebuild them and disk brake installation. Heading over to the classified section, looking for a good High Steer setup and a 4 speed transmission shift lever.







 
Looking good! If you switch to the "mini-truck" knuckles; they have the larger bolt pattern and there are more high-steer options for them. If you have access to a complete mini-truck axle, strip everything from the knuckles out and bolt it right on. Then you'll have your disk brakes too! For better braking, put the FJ40 vented rotors with V-6 calipers on it.
 
Looking good! If you switch to the "mini-truck" knuckles; they have the larger bolt pattern and there are more high-steer options for them. If you have access to a complete mini-truck axle, strip everything from the knuckles out and bolt it right on. Then you'll have your disk brakes too! For better braking, put the FJ40 vented rotors with V-6 calipers on it.

Unfortunately the interior of Alaska does not have an over abundance of axles laying around like the lower 48. These bastards horde onto everything up here, and if they don't it would cost me $400for the knuckles out ...ask me how I know.

I already have the items I need to do the brake swap up front, just need to get the stuff for the rear and a booster/master cylinder.
 
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These bastards horde onto everything up here, and if they don't it would cost me $400for the knuckles out ...ask me how I know.

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/pts/3520359460.html

Looks like the same price as the going rate down here.

Sell off the diff and housing for $200 and you get all you need for $200.

Plus he has listed it before for more money, so he aint sellin it real fast, so Id kick him at 250, then 300 tops.


Landcruiser knuckles and steering arms are junk.

Rig looks good! :beer:
 
http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/pts/3520359460.html

Looks like the same price as the going rate down here.

Sell off the diff and housing for $200 and you get all you need for $200.

Plus he has listed it before for more money, so he aint sellin it real fast, so Id kick him at 250, then 300 tops.


Landcruiser knuckles and steering arms are junk.

Rig looks good! :beer:

that axle has been listed for a long time... i doubt chris would ever see any money back on the diff/housing if be bought it :corn:
 
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