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Mike, You have done an outstanding job on this.....your dad will be proud. Steve

FWIW...I have used nitric acid to remove steel studs in alum heads... Just don't use too much and flush like crazy when done. Another method I use for removing broken taps etc, is to grind a carbide bit to a chisle point then plunge the hole at about 2000 rpm with .3 IPM feed...lots of...

I'm old school too. When I was an apprentice, my "master" gave me a box with about 500 old bits and told me to have at it. He gave me some direction about drill pointing. I learned about chisel and split points, primary cutting lip and secondary heel clearence. Then learned about different...

Keep it simple...Might want to check your belt too.

I did both, good high output alt + dual redtops. I use dual Redtops because I sometimes use a ReadyWelder2. Also, I like having the 1820 amps to winch if the motor is off.

If you want it waterjeted, you will need to supply the guy with actual numbers to cut to. Or give him your part and pay him to come up with the numbers as waterjets are Computer Numerical Controlled.(CNC) I can machine it, but I'm in San Diego(no rain here:D) If it were me, I'd just lay it out...

Not even finished and you already have it high centered on a log.:D Nice build.:awesomework:

3 x .25 DOM is massive, I used 2.5x.19 A513-5 when I built my DS 5 years ago....still running great.

All he did was make his bump steer worse.

Did you use the little "Go- NoGo" gage that came with the lockrite? If the ratchet faces are too far apart, the springs will not have enough force to keep it from sliping.

Fix that as a spare and chances are that it won't be there when you need it. I'd look around for a used tire to be the new spare.

Were there any hints to a problem? A squeak or vibration? I've never seen one fail like that either...my bet is that you got a defective casting on the new pump. Pump went thur 50 to 100 heat cycles and just gave up. Perhaps a bad bearing, bent shaft, or too much belt tension may have...

I thought replacing the TR was a good idea too.:booo:

Flush.:fawkdancesmiley:

Like Pokey said...wrong type of bender, that one is made for pipe. Pipe is measured from the ID(then scheduled) and tube is measured on the OD and walled. Please don't make any safety equiptment from pipe.

Depending on how tight you can get the bends and what type of material you use, you should be OK. So long as the dies are not the type that will dimple your tube. Got any pics of said tube bender? For what it's worth,,,bending a tie rod back is just a bandaid. Once it has been bent it will be...

According to the tag, it came to our shop in 1964, still works great.:D Check out this 32" Gap Bed LeBlond....Army Air Core tag on it is from 1945, and a USAF Buick contract tag, and a NASCO(ship building) tag. It belonged to the airforce the whole time until it was donated to us in 1968. BTW a...

Here is one of 3 vertical band saws we have, actually it's called a "DoAll Contour Machine". There is also a hot(friction) saw and cut-off band saw in the background.

Yep.:fawkdancesmiley:

I did a test on HREW vrs DOM a few years ago. Both tubes were 1.5x.125w. In the 1st pic HREW is on top and DOM bottom. The 2nd pic is DOM top and HREW bottom. I'll never build a cage out of HREW again.