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I would check the sockets on your bulbs. I know it sounds "out there", but I had a comanche that did the same thing.... whenever you turned the blinker switch on, the lights on the dash would light up solid, or not come on at all, depending on what type of flasher relay was installed. After...

Just out of curiosity, what has been your mixed results on the t-case ebrake? I'm pondering WTF to do on my rig... YJ, 14 bolt with discs, Atlas II, etc... I guess my idea at this point for something reliable, safe and hassle free would be the AA t-case brake setup for the Atlas, even though...

Good idea. Been thinking about doing the same myself. Anything special you had to do, or just T into the sewer piping somewhere and put a cap on it?

wire up a toggle switch to the dash light and turn it on whenever you shift the t-case into 4wd. :redneck:

Yes, but isn't the one pictured the switch for the dash light? Maybe I'm totally off, it's been a long time since my YJ had any of that stuff, lol.

I forget how the t-case indicator works, but on a YJ it would've been tied in with the vac disconnect on the front axle... and of course on your rig, that's long gone.

Windshield washer nozzles. It's either the one that runs to the back that would have hooked to a wiper on a hard top rear window, or the one that hooks to your nozzles that spray the windshield... I can't remember for sure, but I know that's what it is cause mine is cut right at the firewall...

What he said. Plus if you are only running at 35, you won't be breaking a lot of 8.8 shafts on a trail rig/DD. The slightly narrower width will only be an issue if you plan on running large tires and stock offset wheels. You can buy 1.25" spacers from Spidertrax or plenty of other places if...

Had that happen once on the exact same bolt. idiots using the wrong socket and stripping it out seems a common occurence. Hammer on a good quality socket that's slightly too small. I can't remember what I used. Use your extensions to line it up and pound the sucker on, then break it loose.

That has got to be the most creative use of a leaf blower ever. I like it! :awesomework:

I have a good 6.0 super duty intercooler you can have for 100 bucks. Was gonna put it on my OBS, then I sold the truck. I've been told the 6.0 intercooler is a simple fit on the OBS trucks, never got that far. Of course you'll still need the e99 spider and the piping (or custom make it).

A non-disconnect D30 is spinning all the time even if you're not in 4wd. Do it right, don't shortcut it just cause it's a front axle. And yeah, second on not needing a case spreader. Trust me, the old carrier will probably fall right out once you yank the caps.

They certainly are small. I ditched all the smog pump **** and plugged the back of the heads, am kinda wishing I had just pulled the heads and done a refresh and some cleanup on the exhaust ports and removed the thermactor bumps like you said... I was that far into it basically with the intake...

Too late! Both headers are installed and torqued down. We'll see if they leak I guess, and I'll re-do with different gaskets. These are mustang headers, so i had to clearance a wee-bit on the bellhousing on driver's side, and i'm re-routing the trans vent line and having a custom y-pipe done.

That's exactly what I decided to do last night after posting this, then thinking about it some more laying in bed. The corners are the only place where the headers appear larger than the ports on the head, so it should only take a little bit of fill in each corner, and some careful flap wheel...

Working on a 89 302 bronco project right now, motor is the original fuel injected 5.0. Stock manifolds were both cracked, driver's side came off in two pieces. I have two different pairs of shorty headers I can pick from to replace them, but I'm seeing differences in the exhaust port size on...

So the 5/8 threads for the timesert are stripped out enough that the timesert itself won't tighten down? Sounds to me like it's time to cut losses and pull the head off. I suppose you could try going one more size up if you can get one with the right internal threads for the plug, just seems...

45 bucks per side plus shipping....... :5bitch: I like the idea of actually "fixing" the housing by removing the C's and re-setting them. I've cut and turned D44 C's before and narrowed my own 60 housing that turned out fine. BUT, how would you go about accurately changing the camber? In mind...

Le sigh.... So I ended up with this 89 Bronco. It has a 77 F-150 axle under the front, coil springs and such. This axle, like other F-150 77-79 F-150 axles I've seen, has the classic horrible camber from the factory. Each side has about 1.5 degrees of positive camber. This is a stock axle...

Hot diggety!