90's throw back....Manche build

[NP]

The awesomeness continues

 

[scrambled]

The light bar looks like an afterthought.

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

Looks awesome! I like how the heims used for the front push bumper are bigger than some folks 4 link heims.

Right on!

The awesomeness continues

The light bar looks like an afterthought.

Thanks guys!

Yea, the bumper is disposable, so didn't want to put too much into it.

I actually prefer round lights on front of the grill like this, more of a pre runner look. I may change to them later on.



Matt

 

[mcutler]

Let the fun begin....

All items that require plumbing are here. (Except heater)
Time to make some stuffs...
Surge tank, overflow, washer fluid, catch cans, mount trans cooler, steering cooler, weld on AN bungs for- radiator and above mentioned tanks, fuel filter/ regulator, fuel pump, exhaust parts, dzus fastener parts for- rad shrouding and inner fenders, etc, etc...Lots to do.

Also spent a many hours in the last week honing my tig work, playing with different tungsten and cups. I'm pretty much a rookie, so be kind or offer advice[emoji41].

#6 gas cup for AL

Big ass pyrex gas for steel

Testing different tungsten

Couple different fillers

I've made progress in tig, this was from my last practice session...

Will have some photo worthy progress through the weekend.

Matt

 

[Beerj]

One thing I learned while teaching myself tig was cleanliness, expecially with aluminum. Wipe your pieces and rod with acetone. Also, when terminating a weld, gently bring the pedal back and go in a small circular motion over the puddle to avoid that little crater which I'm told will be more inclined to crack.

Looks like a great start from what I can tell. I'm sure you'll be just fine.

 

[mcutler]

Thanks beerj! Yes sir on the clean. Copper brush, and acetone everything, (even when I mig weld! ). The outside edge on the cube is where I need the practice most, especially being that most things I need to build will be a tank of sorts. I have a spool gun for aluminum, but that bitch is way too fast for me!

I'm limited some what, only have the miller diversion 165, it doesn't have any of the fine tuning that the synchro or dynasty has.
Matt

 

[Toddy]

If you haven't looked YouTube is a great place to learn.

I'll ask my boss tomm on the tungsten and cup to use for alum. He is a bad ass welder. He worked as a weld tech for ORNL and has welded some of wicked ****.

 

[mcutler]

Thanks toddy, yes watched many videos.

All the research I've done says no green tungsten for alum on inverter machines. Only green on transformer style units. But I swear the green worked great on my diversion, except for the lap joint, red and grey worked better there. The ball on the green didn't seem to spread the heat as well on a lap, but the red and grey kept a nice point which seemed to help in that position. Imma keep on practicing ...

Matt

 

[stuftmunky2k]

I run 2% thoriated tungsten (red) for 99.9% of what i tig weld. Everything from stainless, chromoly, inconel, hastealloy, titanium. On aluminum i always start with a point and let the tungsten morph itself into a tiny ball. Ditch the copper brush and get you a stainless brush that you only use on aluminum. Aluminum loves heat absolutly loves it. Crank your machine wide open and controll the puddle with the peddle till you get a good wet action. With aluminum it loves the rod so being able to fed the rod fast and consistant is a huge plus. Practicing on aluminum will make you a better tig welder on every other metal becuase it trains your hand how to feed the rod fast and consistant. If your welder is a little under power adding helium to the gas mixture will help with the lack of amps the welder is putting out. Keep practicing but my suggestion is stainless brush and follow the 3 rules of aluminum. Clean, clean, and clean.

 

[Beerj]

I really like the gold for aluminum. I think it's 1.5% lanthinated. I hear 2% is even better and the closest thing you'll find to an all purpose tungsten.

 

[mcutler]

Re: Re: 90's throw back....Manche build

I run 2% thoriated tungsten (red) for 99.9% of what i tig weld. Everything from stainless, chromoly, inconel, hastealloy, titanium. On aluminum i always start with a point and let the tungsten morph itself into a tiny ball. Ditch the copper brush and get you a stainless brush that you only use on aluminum. Aluminum loves heat absolutly loves it. Crank your machine wide open and controll the puddle with the peddle till you get a good wet action. With aluminum it loves the rod so being able to fed the rod fast and consistant is a huge plus. Practicing on aluminum will make you a better tig welder on every other metal becuase it trains your hand how to feed the rod fast and consistant. If your welder is a little under power adding helium to the gas mixture will help with the lack of amps the welder is putting out. Keep practicing but my suggestion is stainless brush and follow the 3 rules of aluminum. Clean, clean, and clean.

I have both brushes dedicated for aluminum only. I had read that about helium. I figure doing automotive stuff; dashes, tanks, inner fender, and other applications, that 1/8 AL will be the thickest material I'll use.

Did some research on tungsten grinding last night, mainly about the different angles, penetration and prep. How steep of an angle do you like to have on aluminum inside and outside corners? (Obviously before the ball forms)

Thanks for laying some tips or for me.

I really like the gold for aluminum. I think it's 1.5% lanthinated. I hear 2% is even better and the closest thing you'll find to an all purpose tungsten.

I was going to pick up soon lan yesterday, but ARC3 was out. I've got some coming. I need to get a rainbow pack just to play with. I'd like to step up to a dynasty machine at some point. I figure the diversion is a good hobby machine to get started with...so long as is lack of settings doesn't create bad habits.

Matt

 

[stuftmunky2k]

My tungsten i generally grind from the point back 1/8'' to 3/16 of an inch or so and grind to a point. Now i just take the hole pack of tungsten and grind both ends on a bench grinder. Less time stopping getting up and grinding. More torch is a wp20 with a #7 cup. i run #7 on all more torches. I prefer smaller tig torches over anything else. It helps with your hands not cramping and more mobility. You will get it just takes lots n lots n lots of practice. Ive been tig welding sanitary stainless in food processing plants and exotic metal pipe for 10 years and still learn new tricks and stuff every day. Its a never ending cycle.

 

[sledneck]

Leave the monster cup for stainless and mild steel. They don't work that great for alum. Looks like that other gas lens was a 6 or 7 just run that for your aluminum work and run 12-15 cfh unless someone else is paying for your argon. As a few others posted you can not get aluminum clean enough. Be patient and wait for the puddle to wet if you start trying to add filler rod before you get a nice puddle on both sides it usually just blows up and contaminates your work. I use a scotch brite pad to clean my filler rod before I start sometimes I think it works better than acetone and others I don't know if there is a difference. Guess it just depends on what is in front of you.

 

[mcutler]

Re:

Thanks sled neck. I'll save some argon now!

Matt

 

[mcutler]

My first completed workpiece with tig welding aluminum...or basically period for that matter. Finally got a rhythm, there are a couple hiccups, but that's why I started on the sides that will be unseen... There will be another unit for overflow with the same dimensions as this surge tank, just less weld bungs. If these two pass pressure testing, I will make a couple more at a later date once my skills become more fluid. I appreciate everyone's advice!

And my little helper joined me in the shop for a bit today.

Matt

 

[5BrothersFabrication]

Those are my favorite times, when the wee fellas want to join the party.

 

[mcutler]

Fits like a glove...

Matt

 

[mcutler]

I got the radiator prepped for AN fittings today, -16 on the tanks, and removed the radiator cap and replaced it with a -4 fitting. (I'm using a surge tank system rather than a cap on the radiator. Let's me get the cap to a higher point, more capacity, and it works great in factory vehicles.)

Very unnerving cutting up a brand new radiator...

Nice short connection to the surge tank.

The -12 and -10 fittings on the surge tank will go to the rad side of the thermostat and the hot side of the heater core, respectively; then the return of the core will go to the engine side of t-stat. Obviously the hoses can be rerouted in case of heater core failure. The radiator cap is 18-22lb. The -4 fittings are for the steam ports on the heads and the steam vent from radiator.

Got the steering cooler mounted, easily done with the tanks on this flexalite radiator.

Almost finished the overflow tank today as well. The neck will house a second (spare) cap, but the sealing surface has been vented to let fluid through to the overflow port.

Starting to feel much more comfortable with this tig stuff. I love mig, but tig is more fun.

Matt

 

[FlatlandFSJ]

Dam....I didn't think about putting a heater in mine. My headers will probably keep it plenty warm inside though.

Love the expansion tank set up, I was almost thinking we'd see a miller motorsports style heat ex-changer set up in it though ;D

 

[Beerj]

I'll just leave this here
https://youtu.be/1DYW7ZRfZ9o