zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Sorry I make you eat crow! :haha:
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Having a 7.3 is fun...timing is great
- Thread starter nick c
- Start date
Sorry I make you eat crow! :haha:
hlb3
Zombie Hunter
I wonder why they would have done that, laziness? 1000* after the turbo was probably getting close to the danger zone.
I've got a drill bit and tap you can borrow if you need it.
Previous owner was quite the "do it yourselfer". Nothing horrible, but he didnt waste any money buying "pre-fab" when he could fab it himself!
Two reasons he could have put the probe after the turbo. 1- the downpipe came pre-drilled for a sensor. This is common with certain brands of downpipe. 2- he didnt know any better, and its an easy spot to drill or saw pictures of a downpipe install on the internet. Your correct tho, pre-turbo on the drivers manifold is the way to go.
The intercooler setup was probably the most interesting. he either built the kit before banks came out with their twinram kit, or just had a lot of exhaust tube laying around and thought he could do better. Its for sure unique!
I gave him some ideas on fixing that ICP. We did not pull the pigtail apart to check the wiring inside. It was starting to rain, and I've got a busted ankle makes it hard to get out to the shop for tools. The ICP is not sending a signal to the computer, so the computer is running in an open loop default program. Not the end of the world, truck is still driveable until he gets it fixed.
I stopped at Ford and the Int'l parts counters on my way home from work. Ouch.
The ICP sensor from Int'l was $209+tax, ford was more then that. I thought maybe he looked up the wrong part so I asked him to go get it so I could see it. Its the right part.
Intl didn't have a listing for the repair harness kit, and Ford wanted $120. So I got online and did some looking, Autozone, Orielys and Napa all carried a repair kit but no one had it in stock. Autozone could get it from the Hub and have it tomorrow morning. Grand total $22. It's not a motorcraft brand, but its also $100 less.
So I'm going to try the plug first, if that doesn't fix it I'll cruise back to Intl and bend over for the nice salesman. Atleast he has a mustache. :5bitch:
The ICP sensor from Int'l was $209+tax, ford was more then that. I thought maybe he looked up the wrong part so I asked him to go get it so I could see it. Its the right part.
Intl didn't have a listing for the repair harness kit, and Ford wanted $120. So I got online and did some looking, Autozone, Orielys and Napa all carried a repair kit but no one had it in stock. Autozone could get it from the Hub and have it tomorrow morning. Grand total $22. It's not a motorcraft brand, but its also $100 less.
So I'm going to try the plug first, if that doesn't fix it I'll cruise back to Intl and bend over for the nice salesman. Atleast he has a mustache. :5bitch:
ebay. You can get the pigtail and new ICP sensor in a package deal for under 100 bucks. Thats where I got mine. I try really hard not to buy parts direct from Ford if I dont have too. The exception to that is Titus Will has an online catalog, that if you order and pay via the webpage, you get fleet pricing. But if you walk into the parts counter, you pay retail. I have literally walked in, got a part number from the counter guy, handled the part, then ordered it and paid for it via laptop in his waiting room and saved a decent amount.
ain'tstuckjustresting
RIP Mister 12/5/12
Most Ferd dealers are like that. I think they get a kick back from Ford when parts are ordered online. I found I got better pricing on fordparts.com than I got with my fleet account with Korum. I reamed ass but they wouldn't budge. I closed the account and got Scarff in Auburn to match the internet price. Now I can order online or walk in at the same price on my account. Most parts are still cheaper from Intl. especially if you have a fleet acct.
That's funny, what great customer service.
Moved the pyrometer sensor over to the driver's side manifold and welded up the hole in the down pipe.
Autozone got the repair plug from their hub this am, so I just ran down and grabbed it. And put it in, started the truck, and damn CEL is on. So I shut it down, pulled the battery cables and tried clearing the code via tapping the cables together a few times. CEL is still on. :looser:
Autozone got the repair plug from their hub this am, so I just ran down and grabbed it. And put it in, started the truck, and damn CEL is on. So I shut it down, pulled the battery cables and tried clearing the code via tapping the cables together a few times. CEL is still on. :looser:
Rdub_ewor
Member
The 7.3 may have its minor quirks, but its leaps and bounds better than any of the trash ford has put out since.
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
This.
I have over a million miles on the 7.3's and they are leaps & bounds better than any of the others I have had.
Get a working pyro and keep her foggin fuel till it hits 1150-1200. In all reality if you were post turbo you were probably 1200+ out of the manifold.they like the abuse I'm working on mine all day for the 333,333mile tune-up
I pulled the chip today while I was cleaning up some of the sketch wiring on the inside the prior owner did.
It's a TS Performance. I emailed their support and sent them pictures showing the numbers on the chip and asked if they could tell me what was programmed.
They said unfortunatly they don't keep any record of whats on the chip because alot of the chips are sold blank and programmed by the shop that installs them.
So does anyone locally have the ability to read the chip and tell me what the program is?
It's a TS Performance. I emailed their support and sent them pictures showing the numbers on the chip and asked if they could tell me what was programmed.
They said unfortunatly they don't keep any record of whats on the chip because alot of the chips are sold blank and programmed by the shop that installs them.
So does anyone locally have the ability to read the chip and tell me what the program is?
I thought I had posted to ask but I dont see it in here.
I went down to Intl and bought a new ICP sensor to put in. It's the wrong threads. It the same diameter but the ICP sensor I pulled from my motor has coarse threads and the P/N I keep seeing posted uses fine thread.
Any one run into this before?
My sensor has two numbers stamped into it.
1835923 on the top line
C922351A on the bottom line
edit
Powerstroke Nation has a parts list, and in there I see there are two numbers. one for 94/95 and one for 96/97.
The 96/97 part number is listed as F6TZ9F838-a
the 94/95 part number is listed as F4TZ9F838A
the F6 part number is the one I tried, and had the wrong thread. So I'm guessing I need the early part number. Makes me wonder if it has an early block in it, maybe he killed a motor?
I went down to Intl and bought a new ICP sensor to put in. It's the wrong threads. It the same diameter but the ICP sensor I pulled from my motor has coarse threads and the P/N I keep seeing posted uses fine thread.
Any one run into this before?
My sensor has two numbers stamped into it.
1835923 on the top line
C922351A on the bottom line
edit
Powerstroke Nation has a parts list, and in there I see there are two numbers. one for 94/95 and one for 96/97.
The 96/97 part number is listed as F6TZ9F838-a
the 94/95 part number is listed as F4TZ9F838A
the F6 part number is the one I tried, and had the wrong thread. So I'm guessing I need the early part number. Makes me wonder if it has an early block in it, maybe he killed a motor?
Last edited:
hmmmm, that IS interesting. Given all the other stuff he has done, it wouldnt surprise me if he swapped in a different motor or maybe did a head swap.
The International 2003 Engine Quick Reference Guide says to use 1830669C92 for engine serial number 375548 and below. And to use 1807329C92 for engine serial number 375549 and above. Now, its my understanding that the only difference is the color of the connector material. Silver/tin on early trucks, and gold on later trucks. They also changed the shape so you can get a wrench on it easier. (edit: hmmm, the interwebs say that early trucks use course thread, and everyone else uses fine thread. I didnt know that!).
The best way to tell would be to crawl under the truck, and there is a machined flat spot on the block near the oil filter. The serial number of a 7.3L Powerstroke engine is located on the rear oil cooler pad (driver's side rear of engine, the "pad" is where the oil filter assembly mounts to the engine block). The first 2 digits of the serial number are "7.3", followed by a 4 digit manufacturing designator, and then a 6 or 7 digit build number.
1994.5 - 0058559 - Cast iron water pump right inlet
1995 - 0192398 - High pressue pump with edge filter and drain check valve
1995.5 - 0216543 - High pressure pump, new piston design, front cover and resevoir
1996.5 - 0375549 - New front cover, oil pan, piston kits and gold contact sensors
1996.5 - 0400797 - Updated camshaft timing
1997 - 0460195 - Split-shot injectors, new ECMs - 250HP
1997.5 634234 - CEC (Consolidated Engine Controller)
I would also count the number of bolts holding the intake plenums on. Its possible he only changed the heads. If your engine serial number says 1996 or 1997, but your intake plenums only have 8 bolts, then its a head swap. Only the early motors had 8 bolt plenums, the rest have 10 bolt plenums.
The International 2003 Engine Quick Reference Guide says to use 1830669C92 for engine serial number 375548 and below. And to use 1807329C92 for engine serial number 375549 and above. Now, its my understanding that the only difference is the color of the connector material. Silver/tin on early trucks, and gold on later trucks. They also changed the shape so you can get a wrench on it easier. (edit: hmmm, the interwebs say that early trucks use course thread, and everyone else uses fine thread. I didnt know that!).
The best way to tell would be to crawl under the truck, and there is a machined flat spot on the block near the oil filter. The serial number of a 7.3L Powerstroke engine is located on the rear oil cooler pad (driver's side rear of engine, the "pad" is where the oil filter assembly mounts to the engine block). The first 2 digits of the serial number are "7.3", followed by a 4 digit manufacturing designator, and then a 6 or 7 digit build number.
1994.5 - 0058559 - Cast iron water pump right inlet
1995 - 0192398 - High pressue pump with edge filter and drain check valve
1995.5 - 0216543 - High pressure pump, new piston design, front cover and resevoir
1996.5 - 0375549 - New front cover, oil pan, piston kits and gold contact sensors
1996.5 - 0400797 - Updated camshaft timing
1997 - 0460195 - Split-shot injectors, new ECMs - 250HP
1997.5 634234 - CEC (Consolidated Engine Controller)
I would also count the number of bolts holding the intake plenums on. Its possible he only changed the heads. If your engine serial number says 1996 or 1997, but your intake plenums only have 8 bolts, then its a head swap. Only the early motors had 8 bolt plenums, the rest have 10 bolt plenums.
by the way:
Download it.
Read it.
Memorize it.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/2003EngineQuickRefrenceGuide.pdf
Download it.
Read it.
Memorize it.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/download/2003EngineQuickRefrenceGuide.pdf
Thanks man. Good info to have. I'll take a look when I get home tonight and see what I can figure out.
Also worth noting, if you use Fordparts.com Sound Ford and Auburn Scarff Ford are alot cheaper then Titus Will and Lakewood.
Also worth noting, if you use Fordparts.com Sound Ford and Auburn Scarff Ford are alot cheaper then Titus Will and Lakewood.
Clark
Well-Known Member
Jesus Christ! Why did sell your chevy and buy a ford? :flipoff:
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
Powahhhh
A man becomes wise once he has kids.
DHR Darren
Well-Known Member
That green truck is testament of the 7.3 being the best engine ever. :awesomework:
![IMG_3127[1].JPG](http://attachments.www.hardlinecrawlers.com/xfmg/thumbnail/4/4684-bf31ee48997369e5305b36a46eb9d355.jpg?1625928473)
