The kush-j7 build by 417chevy

Elliott · Jul 15, 2015

al1tonyota said:
You cut those centers with a torch?

No they were cut on a Cnc plasma 3/8" thick hrs

Eddyj · Jul 15, 2015

al1tonyota · Jul 15, 2015

Elliott said:
No they were cut on a Cnc plasma 3/8" thick hrs

Very large difference in a hand operated torch and some stock wheels. Rotten apples vs Apple pie! :drinkers:

417chevy · Jul 15, 2015

al1tonyota said:
Very large difference in a hand operated torch and some stock wheels. Rotten apples vs Apple pie!

But if you eat them both comes out the same ****

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sappmann · Jul 15, 2015

keep it up 417 i like seeing what your doing on your build

al1tonyota · Jul 16, 2015

417chevy said:
But if you eat them both comes out the same ****

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I agree but whole different story while it's going down!

jwilson645 · Jul 16, 2015

BUG-E J said:
When people say prep work is more important than the actual welder you laughed in their face. Way to be a rebel! Rock on

Rusty coat hangers work just fine for welding rods too!

417chevy · Jul 19, 2015

One down three to go looks a lot better

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ibrokeit · Jul 19, 2015

Looks sick. Keep up the good work!

417chevy · Jul 19, 2015

I think I will flip my hubs in anyone know how far that brings the tires in I'm way to wide IMO what's the thought on that?

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al1tonyota · Jul 20, 2015

I agree it is prob wide enough to make some trails harder. I think it totals 8" narrower when the hubs are flipped?

Eddyj · Jul 21, 2015

Flip hubs, grind bolts for clearance. No big deal. Keep it up.

417chevy · Jul 21, 2015

Eddyj said:
Flip hubs, grind bolts for clearance. No big deal. Keep it up.

Do I grind the nuts and studs? Or the wheel studs?

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al1tonyota · Jul 21, 2015

417chevy said:
Do I grind the nuts and studs? Or the wheel studs?

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Just part of the back of the stud when you flip them and try to put them on the head of the stud will hit the spindle bolts

417chevy · Jul 21, 2015

Yeah I noticed it hit the spindle studs so I can grind down the back of the wheel studs enough to clear the spindle studs

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417chevy · Jul 21, 2015

Without comrimising the strength of the wheel studs

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al1tonyota · Jul 21, 2015

417chevy said:
Without comrimising the strength of the wheel studs

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Yep some where around 3/16" I think every body has to do it. You have bolts or stud and nuts in your spindle? If stud and nuts I would swap to bolts with a lock washer and locktite

417chevy · Jul 21, 2015

al1tonyota said:
Yep some where around 3/16" I think every body has to do it. You have bolts or stud and nuts in your spindle? If stud and nuts I would swap to bolts with a lock washer and locktite

I have stud and nuts on spindles is it possible to just grind the studs down to the nuts on the spindle or not? Just don't want to start pulling studs out and they brake off turns into a pain in the ass

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95yj · Jul 21, 2015

I turned down the backside of hubs down to recessed part approx. 7/16" most machine shops will do this around $15-$25 a hub. I would stay away from tapering spindle holes and using hex flush mount bolts

fordcontraption01 · Jul 22, 2015

Please remove and throw away the factory shitty studs in the spindle. Tack weld the nut to it and back em out they are not grade 8 and they will strip out and brake off with a lot of abuse. Ask me how I know and I knew better when I left mine but it caused me a broke stub shaft and a twisted inner spline when mine let go on hellivator a couple years back. :****: