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Hook up a pressure tester to the fuel rail. watch the pressure when you turn it off. If it bleeds down, it is either returning to the tank or your injectors are bleeding off. from your description, it sounds like injectors. try a can of seafoam, that should help with the injectors leaking.

This is going to be a fun one. You need to see what the computer is seeing to be able to do any good. Without a scanner, I would try 2 things. Check all the powers and grounds to the computer first and do a voltage drop test on them, NOT an ohms test. Second would be to try and see into the...

Sounds like a knock sensor is retarding it, (Or timing is off) or you have a weak ground to the ecu. check the grounds with a voltage drop test, NOT an ohm meter.

And if your vehicle has a mass air flow sensor, leave the filter alone. Unless you like to spend good money on new sensors.

Ha,ha,ha. Common problem. POS.. throw them away unless you are using them for burnouts at the drag strip. I have seen them total one rig and scare the wife of the owner out of 10 years of her life. get a 1/4 ball valve at the hardware store and plumb it in.

You will never get back to stock fuel economy and remember you have to go beyond factory gearing to get the power back as you are now driving a lifted brick that has to move a lot more air around it to keep speed, and has a lot more rolling resistance. Go 4.56

Just an FYI for future readers. Napa carry's a pressure switch that is 95-125 in stock for about $15. That is what I did to raise the pressure in my ARB compressor to try and make the RD99 to live.

They will work awesome.... As long as what you want is a truck with the front 4" higher than the rear and the front end geometry all screwed up.:haha:

Motorworks in Spokane also does Toyota motors

Ballistic fabrication has every axle mount, links, frame mounts etc that you need to do it right. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/ Very good people to work with too.

Do yourself a favor and capture the ends so you don't spit them out every time you flex.

If you go on eating binge for a few weeks it will sit level with you in it... Just saying.

I agree with you except for the Ohm's test. The voltage drop test is a much better test. (as I described) You can take a battery cable and cut all the strands except one and it will pass the Ohms test, but it won't start a vehicle.

Just an fyi. you can't test an electrical unit if it is functioning. So if it runs cold, it will test good. you have to test it when it actually is failing to get an accurate test. That is why some electrical issues can be a PITA

Take a voltmeter and connect one wire to the positive side of the battery (not cable) and the other to the positive terminal at the starter (not the wire) and get it to act up. Read the voltage. Do the same from the engine block to the negative side of the battery (not the cable) If you get...

listen to the injector with a stethoscope and see if it clicking when running. It sure sounds like an injector or wiring issue. If the injector is not clicking, unplug it and (still running) take a test light and connect the ground to one wire and the test end to the other at the injector plug...

next time it does this, stop and pull the plugs without forcing the motor to start. See if they are wet and see if it is fuel or water. Sounds like a blown head gasket.

If it was glowing at the o2 check the efi main fuse. If it is blown then replace it and unplug the 02 as it is shorted. That should get it running but you still have to fix the problem that caused the glowing exhaust.

If the alarm was the problem, it would start, flare up, then die. and most times (if not the actual PCM) the lights would be flashing too. If you have a tach, look at it when cranking. If it shows no movement, replace the crank position sensor.

Tire speed is only an issue in mud. Not normal wheeling. Traction and torque are king.