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you should just cut the leaf spring center pin off flush with the u-bolt plate. it doesn't need to be that long, they just come hella long and then you saw them off. also, i have a couple stock toyota rubber bump stops (rear ones) you can have if you need some.

fawk that thing turned out TALL haha. glad to see you guys made some progress. sorry i couldn't stick around longer to help out. let me know if you want some help this weekend. p.s. put your tube bed on there and ditch the fake roll bar :fawkdancesmiley:

are you planning on trailering your rig now since you're putting that yota cab on your fullsize frame? if so, just exo it so you can beat the **** out of it and not worry about it. i don't think you're going to be able to make your rig street legal now anyways, but maybe that's just me.

my buddy Ray did it on his toyota by just cutting off the spring hangers and moving everything forward and welding them back on. he had to put the gas tank in the bed for axle clearance, but everything else cleared fine. i can bring my welder over for your axle swap party if you want to...

x2... i'm pretty sure the rollers didn't come around until 1993 in the CPI engines.

as far as lift kits go, search for leveling kits which will lift the front of the truck around 2".... there's also this website that offers 3.5", 4.5", and 6" lift kits that fit the 2006 dakotas but i don't know anything about the company and their website isn't very clear...

A body lift is a bunch of platic spacers that go between the body and the frame. they essentially lift the body of the truck up off of the frame. so the frame doesn't get any higher from the ground, but the body of the truck gets raised higher... the downside is that it exposes the frame more...

haha yeah i see it now

what the heck happened there ?!?! :eeek:

this thread makes my day... i love when people think outside the box :corn:

:pics: :fawkdancesmiley:

i really don't want to go duals... if i do then i'd have to get new driveshafts (new rear and remake my front square tube) and i'd have to get rid of my steel locking center console cuz it's in the way of where the shifter on the rear case would go.

So my current setup is this: 4.3L V6, TH350 automatic tranny, single toyota 4cyl t-case, 4.10 differential gears. So far out on the trails the stock low-range gears in the t-case have worked just fine (since i have an automatic), but occasionally the truck will bog down and not be able to spin...

I'm running a Crane Cam in my 1993 CPI injection Vortec 4.3L without any mods or problems with the stock computer. It has an advertised duration of 260/276 with 112 degree lobe seperation. I don't know if this helps or not but maybe it will...

http://www.hendrixmotorsports.com/

What he said ^.... 4.09 front and 4.10 rear is pretty common too

haha nice score... my buddy is currently building a datsun on 44's... he's still got a lot of work to do on it though before it's done... maybe by the end of this summer it'll be out on the trail.

hey nice job catching that :awesomework:

yeah i'll be using a hawse fairlead... what i'm asking about though is if i can temporarily just use the winch plate receiver to be towed out before i build the rest of the bumper. i wanna get out on some trails and i can't build a bumper for atleast another couple weeks. so basicaly, it will...

fawk yeah... i'll come over on a weekend and we'll bang out two tube bumpers